Labarai da Jarida

Sid Vicious ba zai taɓa gaskata yawan ƙimar tsoffin tufafinsa ba kuma masu yin jabun za su yi iyakacin ƙoƙarinsu don yin karya.
Ba da dadewa ba, masanin tarihi na al'adun gargajiya na London Paul Gorman, marubucin The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, da Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman ya sami wani yanki na Marr. Rigar Malcolm McLaren.Tambarin Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood, kusan 1977, don kimantawa.
An yi shi daga muslin kuma yana da wani hoto mai iya ganewa nan take daga mai zane Jamie Reid don hannun rigar Jima'i Pistols '' Anarchy in the UK '' guda.
Idan gaskiya ne, zai sami farashi mai kyau a gwanjo. A gwanjon Bonhams a watan Mayu, 1977 Mr. McLaren da Ms. Westwood rigar parachute aka sayar da su akan dala 6,660, tare da wata rigar mohair baƙar fata da ja da ba kasafai aka yi mata ado da kwanyar kai da kasusuwa ba da kuma "Sex" Pistols $8.
Sai dai Mista Gorman bai gamsu cewa rigar da yake tantancewa ita ce mai ita ba.
"Musulmi ya tsufa a wasu wurare," in ji Mr. Gorman. "Amma a wani wuri, masana'anta har yanzu sabo ne. Tawada ba shi da inganci na shekarun 1970 kuma bai yadu cikin masana'anta." Da aka tambaye shi game da abin da ya faru, mai siyar ya janye guntun daga gidan gwanjo ya ce an sayar da shi a asirce. "Akwai irin wannan riga daya kawai a cikin tarin gidan kayan gargajiya," in ji Gorman, "kuma ina ganin hakan ma abin tambaya ne."
Barka da zuwa ga m da kuma riba duniya na fake punk.A cikin past 30 shekaru, pretending da za a handcrafted tare da asali kayayyaki hada da S-da-M da datti graphics, m yanke da madauri, soja ragi alamu, tweeds da latex - Sid Vicious da takwarorinsa a cikin Anarchy Abin da ya zama sananne a cikin zamani masana'antu.
“Ina samun saƙon imel da yawa a kowane wata na tambayar ko wani abu na gaskiya ne,” in ji Steven Philip, wani ma’aikacin adana kayan tarihi, mai tara kaya kuma mai ba da shawara.” Ba zan shiga hannu ba, mutane suna sayen zinare na wawaye.
Tsawon rabin karni, Mista McLaren da Ms Westwood sun bude kantin sayar da al'adun gargajiya, Let It Rock, a 430 King's Road, London. Shagon, wanda a yanzu ake kira Worlds End, shine wurin haifuwar fashion a titi. Masu shi su ne masu zanen kaya waɗanda suka ba da ma'anar facin.
A cikin shekaru 10 da suka biyo baya, kantin sayar da ya canza zuwa Jima'i da masu zaman kansu, yana gabatar da kyan gani da sauti wanda ke da tasiri mai nisa kuma saboda haka ya kasance mai tarin yawa.
Dior da Fendi darektan zane-zane, Kim Jones, yana da yawan aiki na asali kuma ya yi imanin cewa "Westwood da McLaren sun kirkiro tsarin tufafi na zamani. Sun kasance masu hangen nesa, "in ji shi.
Yawancin gidajen tarihi kuma suna tattara waɗannan abubuwa. Michael Costiff, mai zaman jama'a, mai zanen ciki da mai kula da Archives na Duniya don Dover Street Markets, abokin ciniki ne na farko na Mista McLaren da Ms. Westwood. Kayayyakin 178 da ya tara tare da matarsa, Gerlinde, yanzu suna cikin tarin Victoria da Albert Museum, wanda ya sayi Mr Costiff's 5 a kan £420s na National Art. Asusun Tattara.
Darajar McLaren na da Westwood ya sa su zama manufa ga 'yan fashi na zamani.A mafi mahimmancin matakin, ana samun kwafi akan layi kuma ana sayar da su kai tsaye da arha, ba tare da yaudara ba - kawai zane-zanen da aka sani akan t-shirt mai sauƙi.
Paul Stolper, wani kwararre a London, ya ce: “Wannan yanki ya fito ne daga asalin fasahar fasahar kere-kere,” in ji Paul Stolper, wani ɗan wasan galleri na London wanda tarin tarin kayan aikin fensir na asali a yanzu yana cikin Gidan Tarihi na Art Museum.” Hoto ko biyu daga wani lokaci, kamar Che Guevara ko Marilyn, yana ƙarewa ta hanyar al'adunmu.
Sannan akwai fakes da suka fi fitowa fili, kamar T-shirt ɗin 'ya'yan itace mai arha mai ɗauke da gicciye Mickey Mouse, ko $190 "SEX original" guntun wando daga A Store Robot a Tokyo waɗanda ke sauƙin ganewa a matsayin waɗanda ba na asali ba, Saboda sabon masana'anta da gaskiyar cewa ba a taɓa yin wannan salon da gaske a cikin 1970s ba tare da kasuwar jabu ta Japan.
A bara, Mista Gorman ya samo wata riga mai suna "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" a kan eBay a Birtaniya, wanda ya saya a matsayin nazari akan £ 100 (kimanin $ 139).
“Misali ne mai ban sha’awa na jabu,” in ji shi.” Ba a taɓa wanzuwa ba. Amma ƙarin taken ‘Rushewa’ da yaƙin ƙoƙarin yin amfani da halayen zane mai ban sha’awa da aka nuna ta hanyar da ba ta dace da al’adu ba ya jagoranci tsarin McLaren da Westwood. Na yi amfani da ƙwararrun Mawallafa sun tabbatar da cewa tawada na zamani ne, kamar yadda kuma dinkin T-shirt.
Matashiyar Mr McLaren, Young Kim, ta yi aiki tuƙuru tsawon shekaru don kiyaye gadonsa da gadonsa. "Na je gidan kayan tarihi na Metropolitan a 2013 don duba tarin su," in ji Ms. King. "Na yi mamakin gano cewa yawancinsu na bogi ne. Tufafin asali ƙananan ƙananan ne.
Akwai wasu alamu. "Suna da tweed guda biyu da wando na fata, waɗanda ba su da yawa kuma na gaske," in ji Ms King.
Ayyukan da aka yi a cikin nunin 2013 na Met's "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" ya ja hankalin jama'a bayan da Ms. King da Mr. Gorman suka yi sharhi a bainar jama'a game da zargin karya da kuma yawancin rashin daidaituwa na wasan kwaikwayon.
Amma akwai tambayoyi game da aikin da ya shiga gidan kayan gargajiya shekaru takwas da suka wuce. Misalai sun haɗa da suturar bautar da aka nuna a cikin 2006 "Anglomania" show, wanda aka danganta ga mai sayar da kayan tarihi na London Simon Easton, da kuma kamfanin haya na Westwood da McLaren Punk Pistol Collection, wanda ya ba da stylists da masu shirya fina-finai, da kuma abokin tarayya na 20 na Iraqi, Geryal. gidan kayan gargajiya a kan layi.A wani lokaci, gidan kayan gargajiya ya daina jera suttura a matsayin wani ɓangare na tarinsa.
"A cikin 2015, guda biyu na McLaren-Westwood a cikin tarin mu an yanke shawarar zama na bogi," in ji Andrew Bolton, babban jami'in kula da Cibiyar Kayayyakin Kasuwancin Metropolitan.
Mista Gorman ya aika wa Bolton sakwanni da dama inda ya ce sauran ayyukan da ke cikin jerin suna da matsala, amma Mista Gorman ya ce Mista Bolton bai sake ba shi amsa ba.Mai magana da yawun Cibiyar Kayayyakin Kayayyakin Kayayyakin ta ce kwararu ne suka duba sassan guda fiye da sau daya.Mr Bolton ya ki bayar da wani karin bayani kan wannan labarin.
Mista Easton, wanda ba zai yi sharhi game da wannan labarin ba, ya ce ta hanyar imel cewa Mista Bowie yana magana da shi, amma sunansa ba zai iya gogewa a cikin labaran punk na karya ba. A cikin shekaru da yawa, rukunin yanar gizon sa na PunkPistol.com, wanda aka adana a cikin 2008, mutane da yawa suna ɗaukarsa a matsayin ingantaccen kayan tarihi na asali na McLaren da Westwood.
Sai dai Mista Bowie ya ce duk da kokarin da suka yi na tabbatar da tarin, “Hanyar rashin hankali da aka samar da su, da samar da su daga baya kuma aka sake yin su ya hana su.
A ranar 9 ga Satumba, 2008, an fara sanar da Mr. McLaren girman zamba da ya dabaibaye shi da Ms. Westwood ta hanyar imel da ba a bayyana sunansa ba da Mista Gorman ya aika don wannan labarin kuma Ms. Kim ta tabbatar da hakan.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Bayan rahotanni, 'yan sanda sun kai samame gidaje a cikin Croydon da Eastbourne, inda suka gano jerin sunayen masu tayar da hankali," in ji imel ɗin.
Grant Champkins-Howard, yanzu DJ ne a karkashin sunan Grant Dale, da Lee Parker, mai aikin famfo, an yi musu shari'a a Kotun Kingston Crown a watan Yuni 2010, in ji mai shari'a Susan Matthews. Su “maƙaryata ne na tsohuwar zamani.” Lallai an kai samame a cikin 2008 a cikin 2008 ta Ƙungiyar Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararru da Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararrun Ƙwararru na McLaren da Westwood da kuma kayan da ke da alaka da su, da kuma 120 na jabu na Banksy.
Daga baya an samu mutanen biyu da laifin karya ayyukan Banksy.Mr. McLaren, kadai mahaliccin ainihin tufafin Jima'i da Seditionary da ke son bayar da shaida, an nemi ya bincika abubuwan da aka kama kuma ya nuna alamun cewa tufafin na bogi ne: girman da ba daidai ba na haruffan stencil, yadudduka da ba su dace ba, amfani da YKK maimakon zik ɗin walƙiya, juxtaposition na hoto mara kyau da rina tsohuwar farar Tete.
"Ya fusata," in ji Ms King. "Ya ji sosai game da kariya da kare aikinsa. Yana da daraja a gare shi." Bayan da dangantakar da ke tsakanin Mista McLaren da Ms Westwood ta wargaje a shekarar 1984, an dade ana takun saka tsakanin su biyun Ba a taba warware takaddamar ba, kuma tashe-tashen hankulan ya haifar da rashin kwanciyar hankali ga masu yin jabun.
An yanke wa Mista Howard da Parker hukuncin dakatarwa a shari’ar Bankuna, amma an soke shari’ar tufafin jabun lokacin da Mista McLaren ya mutu a shekarar 2010 saboda ya kasance babban shaida ga masu gabatar da kara a fagen.
Duk da haka, ya juya daga cewa Ms Westwood ta iyali ƙila sun ƙirƙira da gangan ko kuma rura wutar masana'antar fake na karya.” Na yi iyakacin bugu na wasu ƙirar farko don tara kuɗi don ƙaddamar da Agent Provocateur,” in ji Joe Corré, ɗan Mista McLaren da Ms. Westwood, wanda ya buɗe nasa rigar a cikin kasuwancin 1994.
"Mun sake kirkiro T-shirt na kashin kaji da T-shirt 'Venus'," in ji Mista Corré. "An lakafta su a matsayin nau'i mai iyaka, an samar da su a cikin iyakacin adadin 100, sannan aka sayar da su ga kasuwar Japan." Kafin waɗannan kwafi dalla-dalla da tsada, sake fasalin ayyukan sun iyakance ga fitattun siliki na siliki akan bugu na T-shirts, saurin samarwa yana da sauri, kuma farashin yana da arha sosai.
Mista Corré ya ce Vivienne Westwood ta ba da lasisin haifuwar.Mr. McLaren ya fusata.A cikin imel mai kwanan wata 14 ga Oktoba 2008 zuwa ga wata ƙungiya ciki har da ɗan jarida Steven Daly, Mista McLaren ya rubuta: "Wane ne ya ba su damar yin haka? Na gaya wa Joe ya tsaya nan da nan ya rubuta masa .Na yi fushi."
Mista Corré, wanda kwanan nan ya zama darekta na Gidauniyar Vivienne, “tana amfani da haƙƙin mallaka na aikinta a hanyar jinƙai don tara kuɗi don dalilai daban-daban.” Ya ce zai binciki yadda za a "kashe" jabun. Ms King ta ci gaba da gwagwarmaya don gadon Mista McLaren kuma ya yi imanin cewa ana shafe shi akai-akai daga tarihin kansa.
Mista Easton da Mr. Bowey's punk pistol kasuwanci ya ci gaba da siyar da Ms. Westwood da aikin Mr. McLaren ta hanyar kantin sayar da Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, yawancinsu suna ɗauke da wasiƙar takaddun shaida daga Kamfanin Vivienne Westwood, wanda Murray Blewett ya sanya hannu, tsarawa da adana su.Waɗannan sun haɗa da riguna masu taguwar ruwa tare da Peter Pancollars, Leviverts-Paints and inspired patches. auduga-roba jaket.
Intanet ba ta da tsauri kamar yawancin gidajen gwanjo, kuma ba za su yi tsokaci kan wannan labarin ba, amma sun ce suna wakiltar ayyuka ne kawai tare da tabbatar da harsashi, watau hotunan mai sanye da kayan a shekarun 1970s.
Mista Gorman ya ce, "Yana da muhimmanci a fahimci cewa yawancin wadanda aka yi musu jabun karya ne da son rai."