Xov xwm thiab Xov xwm

Lub caij no, Turkish zam kev lag luam tau ntsib ntau yam kev cov nyom, xws li los ntawm cov teeb meem Covid-19 tsis tu ncua thiab thaj chaw tsis sib haum xeeb hauv cov tebchaws nyob sib ze, mus rau kev cuam tshuam cov khoom lag luam tsis tu ncua, huab cua txias tsis zoo cuam tshuam txog kev tsim khoom thiab kev lag luam hauv lub tebchaws, raws li pom hauv Turkey cov nyiaj txiag teebmeem raws li UK's Financial Times. Lub Sijhawm tau tshaj tawm tias kev nce nqi nce siab txog 20-xyoo siab ntawm 54% hauv lub Peb Hlis xyoo no.
Txawm hais tias cov teeb meem no, tsim thiab tsim tawm cov txuj ci tsim qauv Turkish tau qhia txog kev ua siab ntev thiab kev cia siab ntawm Istanbul Fashion Week lub caij no, sai sai tau txais kev sib xyaw ntawm cov xwm txheej thiab nthuav tawm cov tswv yim nthuav dav thiab ua pov thawj lawv lub ntiaj teb nyob rau lub caij no.
Kev ua yeeb yam ntawm lub cev ntawm cov chaw keeb kwm xws li Ottoman palace thiab 160-xyoo-laus Crimean lub tsev teev ntuj rov qab los rau lub sijhawm, cuam tshuam nrog kev sib tham digital, nrog rau kev nthuav qhia tshiab, kev sib tham hauv pawg thiab pop-ups ntawm Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Cov koom haum koom nrog - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association lossis İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) thiab Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - tau koom tes nrog Istanbul Soho House los muab cov neeg hauv zos nrog kev soj ntsuam nyob sib ze thiab mus ntsib los ntawm cov tswv cuab hauv kev lag luam tshaj tawm.
Hauv Istanbul, muaj kev nkag siab zoo ntawm lub zog tshiab hauv kev ua haujlwm thiab kev tshuaj xyuas lub cev ua si thaum cov neeg koom nrog koom nrog lawv cov zej zog hauv tib neeg dua hauv cov xwm txheej huab cua.Thaum qee qhov tseem tos tsis tau, qhov kev sov siab tau kov yeej.
"[Peb] tsis nco qab nyob ua ke," hais tias tus txiv neej hnav khaub ncaws tsim Niyazi Erdoğan.
Hauv qab no, BoF ntsib 10 tus tsim tawm tshiab thiab tsim qauv ntawm lawv lub Limtiam Fashion Week thiab cov xwm txheej kom paub seb lawv cov phiaj xwm thiab cov tswv yim lag luam tau hloov pauv li cas hauv Istanbul lub caij no.
Şansım Adalı tau kawm hauv Brussels ua ntej nrhiav Sudi Etuz.Tus tsim qauv, uas tau sib tw digital-thawj mus kom ze, tab tom tsom ntau dua rau nws txoj kev lag luam digital niaj hnub no thiab txo qis nws txoj kev lag luam textile.Nws siv cov qauv kev muaj tiag, cov kws kos duab digital thiab cov kws txawj ntse txawj ntse, nrog rau NFT capsule collections thiab txwv lub cev khaub ncaws.
Şansım Adalı tuav nws qhov kev nthuav tawm ntawm Crimea Memorial Church nyob ze Galata hauv Istanbul, qhov chaw nws cov qauv tsim digital tau ua qauv ntawm cov avatars thiab nthuav tawm ntawm 8-foot-siab screen.Tom qab poob nws txiv rau Covid-19, nws tau piav qhia tias nws tseem "tsis zoo" kom muaj ntau tus neeg ua qauv hauv kev ua yeeb yam hauv kev ua yeeb yaj kiab. qhov chaw.
Nws hais rau BoF "Nws yog ib qho kev sib txawv heev, muaj kev nthuav qhia digital ntawm qhov chaw tsim kho qub," nws hais rau BoF.
Cov yeeb yam digital nrog rau kev ua yeeb yam ua yeeb yam, thiab tus neeg hu nkauj hnav ib qho ntawm ob peb lub cev khaub ncaws Adal ua rau hnub no - tab sis feem ntau, Sudi Etuz npaj siab ua kom pom tseeb digital.
"Kuv cov phiaj xwm yav tom ntej tsuas yog ua kom cov khoom lag luam ntawm kuv lub lag luam me me vim kuv tsis xav tias lub ntiaj teb xav tau lwm lub npe rau kev tsim khoom loj. Kuv tsom mus rau cov haujlwm digital. Kuv muaj pab pawg kws kho tshuab computer, cov kws kos duab digital thiab cov kws kos duab khaub ncaws. Kuv pab neeg tsim yog Gen Z, thiab kuv sim nkag siab lawv, saib lawv, mloog lawv."
Gökay Gündoğdu tau tsiv mus rau New York los kawm txog kev tswj hwm kev lag luam ua ntej koom nrog Domus Academy hauv Milan hauv 2007.Gündoğdu ua haujlwm hauv ltalis ua ntej tshaj tawm nws cov khaub ncaws poj niam daim ntawv lo TAGG xyoo 2014 - Tus cwj pwm Gökay Gündoğdu.Stockists suav nrog Luisa Via Roma thiab nws qhov chaw lag luam e-lag luam, uas tau tsim tawm thaum lub sijhawm ua lag luam.
TAGG nthuav tawm cov ntawv sau rau lub caij no nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm cov khoom pov thawj digitally augmented: "Peb siv QR cov lej thiab ntxiv qhov tseeb los saib cov yeeb yaj kiab nyob los ntawm phab ntsa dai - video versions ntawm cov duab tseem, ib yam li kev ua yeeb yam, "Gündoğdu hais rau BoF.
Nws tau hais tias "Kuv tsis yog tus neeg digital kiag li," nws hais, tab sis thaum muaj kev sib kis, "txhua yam peb ua yog digital. Peb ua rau peb lub vev xaib nkag tau yooj yim dua thiab nkag siab yooj yim dua. Peb nyob hauv [kev tswj hwm lag luam wholesale] Joor nthuav tawm cov khoom sau rau 2019 thiab tau txais cov neeg siv khoom tshiab thiab tshiab hauv Asmeskas, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait."
Txawm hais tias nws txoj kev vam meej, kev tsaws TAGG ntawm cov nyiaj thoob ntiaj teb lub caij no tau ua pov thawj nyuaj. "International media thiab buyers yeej ib txwm xav pom ib yam dab tsi los ntawm peb nyob rau hauv Qaib Cov Txwv.
Kev kub ntxhov nyiaj txiag tseem cuam tshuam rau nws cov khoom sau rau lub caij no: "Lub Turkish lira poob qis, yog li txhua yam yog kim heev. Ntshuam fabrics los ntawm txawv teb chaws yog tibneeg hu tauj coob. Tsoom fwv hais tias koj yuav tsum tsis txhob thawb kev sib tw ntawm txawv teb chaws fabric manufacturers thiab domestic lag luam. Koj yuav tsum them se ntxiv rau ntshuam." Yog li ntawd, cov neeg tsim qauv sib xyaw cov ntaub hauv zos nrog cov tuaj ntawm Ltalis thiab Fabkis.
Creative Director Yakup Bicer launched nws hom Y Plus, unisex hom, nyob rau hauv 2019 tom qab 30 xyoo nyob rau hauv lub Turkish tsim kev lag luam.Y Plus debuted ntawm London Fashion Week thaum Lub Ob Hlis 2020.
Cov ntawv sau digital ntawm Yakup Bicer Lub Caij Nplooj Ntoos Hlav / Lub Caij Ntuj Sov 22-23 yog kev tshoov siab los ntawm "tsis qhia npe cov keyboard heroes thiab lawv cov neeg tiv thaiv ntawm crypto-anarchist ideology" thiab xa cov lus ntawm kev tiv thaiv kev ywj pheej ntawm kev nom kev tswv ntawm kev sib raug zoo xov xwm platforms.
"Kuv xav mus txuas ntxiv [qhia] ib pliag," nws hais rau BoF. "Raws li peb tau ua yav dhau los, kev coj cov neeg yuav khoom ua ke thaum lub lim tiam zam yog lub sijhawm siv nyiaj ntau thiab hnyav nyiaj txiag. Tam sim no peb tuaj yeem ncav cuag txhua qhov chaw hauv ntiaj teb tib lub sijhawm thaum kov lub pob nrog kev nthuav qhia digital. "
Tshaj li thev naus laus zis, Bicer tab tom siv cov khoom tsim hauv zos kom kov yeej cov khoom lag luam cuam tshuam - thiab ua li ntawd, cia siab tias yuav xa cov kev coj ua kom ruaj khov ntxiv. "Peb tab tom ntsib kev txwv kev mus ncig thiab tam sim no peb tab tom ua tsov rog [hauv cheeb tsam ntiaj teb], yog li qhov teeb meem thauj khoom nws tsim cuam tshuam rau peb kev lag luam tag nrho.
Ece thiab Ayse Ege tau pib lawv lub npe Dice Kayek hauv xyoo 1992.Yav dhau los ua hauv Paris, lub hom tau koom nrog Fédération Française de la Couture hauv 1994 thiab tau txais txiaj ntsig Jameel nqi zog III, ib qho khoom plig thoob ntiaj teb rau kev kawm txuj ci thiab tsim kev tshoov siab los ntawm Islamic kab lis kev cai, hauv 2013. thoob ntiaj teb.
Dice Kayek cov viv ncaus Ece thiab Ayse Ege tau nthuav tawm lawv cov khoom sau hauv kev ua yeeb yaj kiab zam lub caij no - hom digital uas lawv tam sim no paub, tau ua yeeb yaj kiab zam txij li xyoo 2013. Qhib nws thiab rov qab mus rau nws.Nws muaj nqi ntau dua. Hauv 10 lossis 12 xyoo, koj tuaj yeem saib nws dua.Peb nyiam nws ntau yam, "Ece hais rau BoF.
Niaj hnub no, tsuav Kayek muag thoob ntiaj teb hauv Tebchaws Europe, Tebchaws Asmeskas, Middle East thiab Tuam Tshoj. Los ntawm lawv lub khw hauv Paris, lawv sib txawv cov neeg siv khoom hauv khw los ntawm kev siv Turkish kev lis kev cai raws li kev paub txog cov khw muag khoom.
Cov viv ncaus yav dhau los tau khiav lawv txoj kev lag luam los ntawm Paris ua ntej yuav tsiv mus rau Istanbul, qhov chaw uas lawv lub studio txuas nrog Beaumonti's showroom.Dice Kayek tau ua haujlwm tag nrho lawv cov lag luam thiab pom kev tsim khoom tau txais txiaj ntsig ntau dua, "ib yam dab tsi peb ua tsis tau thaum peb tsim tawm hauv lwm lub Hoobkas." Nyob rau hauv nqa ntau lawm nyob rau hauv-tsev, cov viv ncaus kuj cia siab rau Turkish craftsmanship yog txhawb thiab tuav nyob rau hauv nws sau.
Niyazi Erdoğan yog tus tsim tsim ntawm Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 thiab Tus Lwm Thawj Coj ntawm Lub Koom Haum Saib Xyuas Kev Ua Yeeb Yam Turkish, thiab tus kws qhia ntawv ntawm Istanbul Fashion Academy. Ntxiv nrog rau cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws, nws tau tsim cov khoom lag luam NIYO hauv 2014 thiab yeej European Museum Award hauv tib lub xyoo.
Niyazi Erdoğan nthuav tawm nws cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws digitally rau lub caij no: "Peb txhua tus tsim digitally tam sim no - peb qhia hauv Metaverse lossis NFTs. Peb muag cov khoom sau ob qho tib si digital thiab lub cev, mus rau ob qho tib si. Peb xav npaj rau yav tom ntej ntawm ob qho tib si," nws hais rau BoF.
Txawm li cas los xij, rau lub caij tom ntej, nws hais tias, "Kuv xav tias peb yuav tsum muaj lub cev ua yeeb yam. Zam yog hais txog tib neeg thiab kev xav, thiab tib neeg nyiam ua ke. Rau cov neeg muaj tswv yim, peb xav tau qhov no."
Thaum muaj kev sib kis thoob ntiaj teb, lub lag luam tau tsim lub khw hauv online thiab hloov lawv cov khoom sau los ua "muag zoo dua" hauv online, suav nrog kev hloov pauv ntawm cov neeg siv khoom xav tau thaum muaj kev sib kis.Nws kuj pom muaj kev hloov pauv hauv cov neeg siv khoom lag luam no: "Kuv pom kuv cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho raug muag rau cov poj niam ib yam nkaus, yog li tsis muaj ib thaj tsam."
Raws li ib tug kws qhia ntawv ntawm IMA, Erdogan tab tom kawm los ntawm cov tiam tom ntej. "Rau ib tiam neeg zoo li Alpha, yog tias koj nyob hauv kev zam, koj yuav tsum nkag siab lawv. Kuv lub zeem muag yog kom nkag siab txog lawv cov kev xav tau, kom muaj tswv yim txog kev ruaj khov, digital, xim, txiav thiab cov duab - peb yuav tsum ua haujlwm nrog lawv cuam tshuam. "
Ib tus neeg kawm tiav Istituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker tau ua haujlwm rau cov tuam txhab xws li Frankie Morello, Colmar thiab Furla ua ntej tshaj tawm nws lub npe kos npe rau xyoo 2012, tsim qauv npaj-rau-hnav, nkauj nyab thiab couture collections.Nws tau nthuav tawm hauv London, Paris thiab Milan Fashion Weeks.
Ua kev zoo siab rau lub npe 10th hnub tseem ceeb rau lub caij no, Nihan Peker tau ua yeeb yam hauv Çırağan Palace, yav dhau los Ottoman palace hloov dua siab tshiab los ntawm lub tsev so saib lub Bosphorus.
"Nws tau siv sijhawm ntev los ua pov thawj kuv tus kheej hauv kuv lub tebchaws," said Peker, uas zaum pem hauv ntej kab rau lub caij no nrog cov neeg ua yeeb yam Turkish hnav cov qauv tsim los ntawm nws cov ntawv sau yav dhau los.International, "txhua yam mus rau qhov yog," nws hais, nrog kev loj hlob hauv Middle East.
"Txhua tus neeg tsim qauv Turkish yuav tsum xav txog cov kev cov nyom ntawm peb cheeb tsam ib ntus. Frankly, raws li ib lub teb chaws, peb yuav tsum tau nrog cov teeb meem loj ntawm kev sib raug zoo thiab kev nom kev tswv, yog li peb txhua tus poob lub zog ib yam nkaus. Kuv lub hom phiaj tam sim no yog los ntawm kuv qhov kev npaj-rau-hnav thiab haute couture collections tsim ib yam tshiab ntawm hnav, manufacturable elegance. "
Tom qab kawm tiav los ntawm Istanbul Fashion Institute hauv 2014, Akyuz tau kawm tiav qib Master hauv Menswear Design ntawm Marangoni Academy hauv Milan.Nws ua haujlwm rau Ermenegildo Zegna thiab Costume National ua ntej rov qab mus rau Turkey hauv 2016 thiab tshaj tawm nws cov khaub ncaws hnav hauv 2018.
Hauv kev ua yeeb yam thib rau ntawm lub caij, Selen Akyuz tau ua ib zaj yeeb yaj kiab uas tau tshuaj xyuas ntawm Soho House hauv Istanbul thiab hauv online: "Nws yog ib qho yeeb yaj kiab, yog li nws tsis yog kev ua yeeb yam tiag tiag, tab sis kuv xav tias nws tseem ua haujlwm. Kuj tseem muaj kev xav."
Raws li kev lag luam me me, Akyuz maj mam txhim kho cov neeg siv khoom thoob ntiaj teb me me, nrog cov neeg siv khoom tam sim no nyob hauv Asmeskas, Romania thiab Albania. "Kuv tsis xav dhia txhua lub sijhawm, tab sis ua kom qeeb, ib kauj ruam dhau los, thiab ua qhov ntsuas ntsuas," "Peb tsim txhua yam ntawm kuv lub rooj noj mov. Tsis muaj ntau ntau lawm. Kuv ua yuav luag txhua yam los ntawm tes" - suav nrog kev tsim cov hnab, cov khoom siv ntxiv, thiab lwm yam. xyaum.
Qhov kev txo qis no txuas ntxiv mus rau nws cov neeg koom tes ntau lawm." Hloov chaw ua haujlwm nrog cov tuam txhab loj, kuv tau nrhiav cov neeg tsim khoom me me hauv zos los txhawb kuv lub hom, tab sis nws nyuaj rau nrhiav cov neeg sib tw tsim nyog. Cov kws txawj siv cov tswv yim ib txwm nrhiav tau nyuaj - kev txhawb nqa ntawm cov neeg ua haujlwm tiam tom ntej txwv.
Gökhan Yavaş kawm tiav los ntawm DEU Fine Arts Textile thiab Fashion Design hauv 2012 thiab kawm ntawm IMA ua ntej tshaj tawm nws tus kheej txoj kev menswear label hauv 2017.Lub hom tam sim no ua haujlwm nrog cov tuam txhab xws li DHL.
Lub caij no, Gökhan Yavaş nthuav tawm cov yeeb yaj kiab luv luv thiab ua yeeb yam - nws thawj zaug hauv peb xyoos. "Peb nco nws heev - nws yog lub sijhawm los tham nrog tib neeg dua. Peb xav ua kom ua yeeb yam hauv lub cev vim tias ntawm Instagram, nws nyuaj rau kev sib txuas lus ntau dua. Nws yog ntau dua txog kev sib ntsib thiab hnov ​​​​los ntawm tib neeg ntsej muag," tus tsim qauv hais.
Lub hom phiaj yog hloov kho nws cov tswv yim tsim khoom. "Peb tau tso tseg tsis siv cov tawv tawv thiab tawv tiag tiag," nws piav qhia tias thawj peb qhov zoo li ntawm cov khoom sau tau raug cobbled ua ke los ntawm cov phuam qhwv caj dab ua los ntawm kev sau ua ntej.Yavaş tseem tab tom yuav koom tes nrog DHL los tsim lub tsho tiv no los muag rau ib puag ncig kev siab hlub.
Lub hom phiaj ntawm kev ruaj ntseg tau ua pov thawj nyuaj rau cov hom lag luam, nrog rau thawj qhov teeb meem yog nrhiav ntau cov ntaub npuag los ntawm cov neeg muag khoom. "Koj yuav tsum xaj tsawg kawg 15 meters ntawm cov ntaub los ntawm koj cov neeg muab khoom, thiab qhov ntawd yog qhov nyuaj tshaj plaws rau peb." Qhov kev sib tw thib ob uas lawv ntsib yog qhib lub khw hauv Qaib Cov Txwv kom muag cov khaub ncaws hnav, thaum cov neeg yuav khoom hauv zos tsom mus rau Turkish poj niam cov khaub ncaws tsim kev faib tawm.Tseem, thaum lub npe muag los ntawm lawv lub vev xaib thiab cov khw muag khoom thoob ntiaj teb hauv Canada thiab London, lawv lub hom phiaj tom ntej yog Asia - tshwj xeeb yog Kaus Lim Kauslim thiab Tuam Tshoj.
Wearable art brand Bashaques tau tsim muaj nyob rau hauv 2014 los ntawm Başak Cankeş.Lub hom lag luam muag swimwear thiab kimonos themed nrog nws cov artwork.
"Ib txwm, kuv ua kev sib koom tes ua yeeb yam nrog cov khoom siv kos duab," tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim Başak Cankeş hais rau BoF sai sai tom qab nthuav tawm nws cov ntawv sau tshiab kawg hauv 45-feeb kev tshuaj ntsuam xyuas ntawm Soho House hauv Istanbul.
Lub exhibition qhia zaj dab neeg ntawm nws mus rau Peru thiab Colombia ua hauj lwm nrog lawv cov neeg txawj ntse, txais yuav Anatolian qauv thiab cov cim, thiab "nug lawv li cas lawv xav txog Anatolian [prints]".
Nws hais tias "Txog 60 feem pua ​​​​ntawm cov khoom sau tsuas yog ib daim xwb, txhua tus tes xuas tes ua los ntawm cov poj niam hauv Peru thiab Anatolia," nws hais.
Cankeş muag rau cov neeg sau kos duab hauv tebchaws Turkey thiab xav kom qee cov neeg siv khoom los ua cov khoom khaws cia hauv tsev cia puav pheej los ntawm nws txoj haujlwm, piav qhia tias nws "tsis nyiam ua lub ntiaj teb lub npe vim tias nws nyuaj ua lub ntiaj teb thiab muaj txiaj ntsig zoo.
Karma Collective sawv cev rau cov txuj ci tshiab ntawm Istanbul Moda Academy, tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 2007, muab qib hauv Kev Tsim Qauv, Kev Tsim Kho Khoom Siv thiab Khoom Siv, Kev Tswj Xyuas Zam, thiab Kev Sib Txuas Lus thiab Kev Tshaj Tawm.
"Qhov teeb meem tseem ceeb uas kuv muaj yog huab cua, vim tias nws tau los daus rau ob lub lis piam dhau los, yog li peb kuj muaj teeb meem ntau nrog cov saw hlau thiab cov khoom siv ntaub," Hakalmaz hais rau BoF.She tau tsim cov khoom sau hauv tsuas yog ob lub lis piam rau nws daim ntawv lo Alter Ego, nthuav tawm ua ib feem ntawm Karma collective, thiab kuj tsim rau lub tsev zam Nocturne.
Hakalmaz tseem tsis tau siv cov kev daws teeb meem los txhawb nws txoj kev tsim khoom, hais tias: "Kuv tsis nyiam siv thev naus laus zis thiab nyob deb ntawm nws ntau li ntau tau vim kuv xav ua cov khoom siv tes ua kom sib txuas nrog yav dhau los."