Akụkọ na pịa

Sid Vicious agaghị ekweta ego ole uwe ochie ya bara nakwa na ndị na-ere ahịa adịgboroja ga-agbasi mbọ ike ka ha wepụta ha.
N'oge na-adịbeghị anya, onye ọkọ akụkọ ihe mere eme pop nke dabeere na London bụ Paul Gorman, onye dere akwụkwọ akụkọ The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, na Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman nwetara mpempe nke Marr. Uwe nke Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, ihe dịka 1977, maka nleba anya.
Emere ya site na muslin ma nwee ihe ngosi ozugbo nke onye na-ese ihe bụ Jamie Reid mere maka aka uwe nke Sex Pistols '' Anarchy in the UK '' otu.
Ọ bụrụ na ọ bụ eziokwu, ọ ga-enweta ọnụ ahịa mara mma na ọrịre. N'ahịa ahịa Bonhams na May, a na-ere 1977 Mr. McLaren na Ms. Westwood uwe elu parachute maka $6,660, tinyere obere obere mohair mohair na-acha uhie uhie na-eji okpokoro isi na ọkpụkpụ crossbones na "Sex Pistols $ 8.
Agbanyeghị, Maazị Gorman ekwetaghị na uwe elu ọ na-enyocha bụ ihe onye nwe ya kwuru.
Maazị Gorman kwuru, sị: “Ndị Alakụba adịla ochie n'ebe ụfọdụ.” Ma n'ebe ndị ọzọ, ákwà ahụ ka dị ọhụrụ nke ukwuu. A jụrụ ya banyere ihe ngosi ahụ, onye na-ere ere wepụrụ mpempe akwụkwọ ahụ n'ụlọ ahịa ahụ wee kwuo na e rere ya na nzuzo.
Mmadụ Bịa na weird na-enye ego ụwa nke adịgboroja punk.Over gara aga 30 afọ, na-eme ka a ga-aka na mbụ aghụghọ incorporating S-na-M na unyi ndịna-emeputa, ọhụrụ ịkpụ na straps, agha ngafe ụkpụrụ, tweeds na latex – Sid Vicious na ndị ọgbọ ya na Anarchy Ihe ghọrọ ama na oge nke echiche na-eto eto.
Steven Philip, onye na-edebe ihe ochie, onye na-anakọta ihe na onye ndụmọdụ kwuru, sị: “M na-enweta ozi email dị iche iche kwa ọnwa na-ajụ ma ọ̀ dị ihe dị adị.” Agaghị m etinye aka na ya, ndị mmadụ na-azụta ọla edo ndị nzuzu.
Ruo ọkara narị afọ, Mr McLaren na Ms Westwood emeghewo ụlọ ahịa counterculture ha, Let It Rock, na 430 King's Road, London. Ụlọ ahịa ahụ, nke a na-akpọ ugbu a dị ka Worlds End, bụ ebe ọmụmụ nke ejiji okporo ụzọ. Ndị nwe ya bụ ndị na-emepụta ihe na-akọwapụta ihe nkiri punk.
N'ime afọ 10 sochirinụ, a gbanwere ụlọ ahịa ahụ ka ọ bụrụ Mmekọahụ na Ndị Seditionaries, na-ewebata anya na ụda nke nwere mmetụta dị ukwuu ma bụrụ nke a na-anakọta." Alexander Fury, onye edemede nke "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk na-ekwu.
Dior na Fendi's director director, Kim Jones, nwere ọtụtụ ọrụ mbụ ma kwenyere na "Westwood na McLaren kere ụkpụrụ maka uwe ọgbara ọhụrụ. Ha bụ ndị ọhụụ," ka ọ na-ekwu.
Ọtụtụ ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie na-anakọta ihe ndị a. Michael Costiff, onye na-elekọta mmadụ, onye mmepụta ime na onye nlekọta nke World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, bụ onye ahịa mbụ nke Mr. McLaren na Ms. Westwood. The 178 ekike o gbakọtara na nwunye ya, Gerlinde, bụ ugbu a na nchịkọta nke Victoria na Albert Museum, nke zụtara Mr Costiff's 420 0000 na National Collection. Ego mkpokọta.
Uru nke vintage McLaren na Westwood na-eme ka ha bụrụ ndị a na-eche maka ndị omekome ejiji. N'ebe kachasị anya, ihe atụ dị na ntanetị na-ere ya ozugbo na ọnụ ala, na-enweghị aghụghọ - naanị ihe osise a maara nke ọma na t-shirt dị mfe.
Paul Stolper, bụ́ onye na-ese ihe na London, bụ́ onye nchịkọta ihe osise mbụ ya dị na Metropolitan Museum of Art, kwuru, sị: “Iberibe a sitere n’ọdịbendị anyị na-ekesa.”
Mgbe ahụ, e nwere ndị ọzọ doro anya adịgboroja, dị ka ọnụ ala Mkpụrụ nke Loom t-uwe elu featuring a kpogidere Mickey òké, ma ọ bụ $190 "SEX mbụ" agbụ mkpirisi si A Store Robot na Tokyo na-adị mfe na-amata dị ka ndị na-abụghị nke mbụ, N'ihi na nke ọhụrụ ákwà na eziokwu na ọ dịghị mgbe e mere ụdị a n'ezie na 1970s na ndị Japanese ahịa bụ idei mmiri juru.
N'afọ gara aga, Mr Gorman chọtara uwe a na-akpọ "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" na eBay na UK, nke ọ zụtara dị ka ihe ọmụmụ maka £ 100 (ihe dịka $ 139).
O kwuru, sị: “Ọ bụ ihe atụ na-akpali mmasị nke adịgboroja,” ka o kwuru.” Ma mgbakwunye nke okwu ‘mbibi’ na mwakpo nke ịgbalị iji agwa katoon ahụ a na-ahụ n’anya nke e gosipụtara n’ụzọ omenala na-eduzi ụzọ McLaren na Westwood si bịa. M na-eji ọkachamara ahụ eme ihe Ndị na-ebi akwụkwọ egosila na inks bụ ọgbara ọhụrụ, dịkwa ka uwe T-shirt.
Nwanyị di ya nwụrụ Mr McLaren, Young Kim, arụsi ọrụ ike kemgbe ọtụtụ afọ iji chekwaa ihe nketa ya na ihe nketa ya. "Agara m na Metropolitan Museum na 2013 iji nyochaa nchịkọta ha," Nwada King kwuru.
E nwere ihe ịrịba ama ndị ọzọ. "Ha nwere otu ụzọ tweed na uwe ogologo ọkpa akpụkpọ anụ, bụ ndị na-adịghị ahụkebe na nke bụ eziokwu, "Ms King kwuru.
Ọrụ dị na Met's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" ngosi dọtara uche ụfọdụ mgbe Nwada King na Mr. Gorman kwuputara n'ihu ọha na ebubo ụgha ndị a na-ebo ebubo na ọtụtụ n'ime ihe ngosi ahụ.
Ma enwere ajụjụ banyere ọrụ ahụ nke banyere n'ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie afọ asatọ tupu mgbe ahụ. Ihe atụ gụnyere uwe nke ịgba ohu nke gosipụtara nke ọma na 2006 "Anglomania" show, nke ekwuru na onye na-ere ihe ochie nke London bụ Simon Easton, na vintage Westwood na McLaren mgbazinye ụlọ ọrụ Punk Pistol Collection, nke nyere ndị stylists na ndị na-ese ihe nkiri, na 3, onye na-azụ ahịa nke Iraq, Mr. Bowey. ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie na ntanetị. N'oge ụfọdụ, ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie kwụsịrị ịdepụta uwe ndị dị ka akụkụ nke nchịkọta ya.
"N'afọ 2015, mpempe McLaren-Westwood abụọ dị na nchịkọta anyị kpebisiri ike na ha bụ adịgboroja," Andrew Bolton, onye isi nlekọta na Ụlọ Ọrụ Na-ahụ Maka Ụlọ Ọrụ Metropolitan Costume kwuru.
Maazị Gorman zigara Mr Bolton ọtụtụ ozi ịntanetị nke o kwuru na ọrụ ndị ọzọ na usoro ahụ nwere nsogbu, mana Mr Gorman kwuru na Mr Bolton anabataghị ya. Onye na-ekwuchitere ụlọ ọrụ ejiji kwuru na ndị ọkachamara nyochara iberibe ahụ ihe karịrị otu ugboro. Mr Bolton jụrụ inye nkọwa ọzọ maka isiokwu a.
Mr Easton, onye na-agaghị ekwu maka isiokwu a, kwuru site na email na Mr Bowie na-ekwu maka ya, ma aha ya bụ ihe na-adịghị ehichapụ na akụkọ akụkọ punk adịgboroja. N'ime afọ ndị gara aga, saịtị PunkPistol.com ya, bụ nke e debere na 2008, na-ewere ọtụtụ ndị dị ka ihe nchekwa nchekwa nchekwa maka mbụ McLaren na Westwood.
Agbanyeghị, Maazị Bowie kwuru na n'agbanyeghị mbọ niile ha gbara iji kwado mkpokọta ahụ, “ụzọ dị egwu nke e si chepụta uwe mbụ, mepụta na mechaa mechaa megharịa ya gbochiri ya. Taa, ọbụlagodi na ndepụta katalọgụ ahịa ahịa, nnata na oge ụfọdụ sitere na asambodo Westwood, uwe ndị a ka na-arụ ụka.”
Na Septemba 9, 2008, e bu ụzọ mara Maazị McLaren maka oke nke wayo gbara ya na Oriakụ Westwood site na ozi-e na-amaghị aha nke Mr. Gorman zipụrụ maka akụkọ a yana nwada Kim gosikwara ya.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Mgbe akụkọ gasịrị, ndị uwe ojii wakporo ụlọ ndị dị na Croydon na Eastbourne, ebe ha chọtara akwụkwọ mpịakọta nke mkpado mkparị," email ahụ kwuru.
Grant Champkins-Howard, bụ onye DJ ugbu a n'okpuru aha Grant Dale, na Lee Parker, onye na-akụ pọmpụ, na-ekpe ikpe na Kingston Crown Court na June 2010, Onyeikpe Susan Matthews kwuru. Ha bụ "ndị ụgha oge ochie" n'ezie, ndị Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad wakporo ihe onwunwe ha na 2008 wee jide n'aka ụgbọ mmiri nke McLaren na Westwood uwe na ihe ndị yiri ya, yana 120 adịgboroja akwụkwọ Banksy.
E mesịrị mara mmadụ abụọ ahụ ikpe na-ezighị ezi ọrụ Banksy.Mr. A gwara McLaren, naanị onye kere uwe mbụ nke Mmekọahụ na Seditionary dị njikere ịgba akaebe, ka ọ nyochaa ihe ndị ahụ ejidere wee rụtụ aka na-egosi na uwe ndị ahụ bụ adịgboroja: nha ezighi ezi nke mkpụrụedemede stencil, akwa na-ekwekọghị ekwekọ, iji YKK kama iji zippers akara Lightning, eserese eserese na-ezighi ezi na agba ọcha.
Nwada King kwuru, "O were iwe." Ọ nwere mmetụta siri ike maka ichebe na ịgbachitere ọrụ ya. Ọ dị ya oké ọnụ ahịa. Ka mmekọrịta dị n'etiti Mr McLaren na Ms Westwood daa na 1984, enwere ogologo oge dị elu n'etiti ha abụọ Esemokwu a edozibeghị, esemokwu ahụ mekwara ohere maka ndị na-ere ahịa adịgboroja.
Enyere Mr Howard na Mr Parker ahịrị n'okwu ikpe Banks, mana a kagburu ikpe uwe adịgboroja mgbe Mr McLaren nwụrụ na 2010 n'ihi na ọ bụ isi ihe akaebe maka ndị gbara akwụkwọ n'ọhịa.
Otú ọ dị, ọ na-atụgharị na Ms Westwood ezinụlọ nwere ike n'amaghị ama kere ma ọ bụ fueled adịgboroja punk ụlọ ọrụ.” M mere mmachi mbipụta nke ụfọdụ n'oge aghụghọ iji nweta ego ẹkedori Agent Provocateur,” kwuru Joe Corré, nwa Mr. McLaren na Nwada Westwood, onye meghere ya uwe ime na 1994 azụmahịa.
Mazị Corré kwuru, sị: "Anyị rụgharịrị T-shirt ọkpụkpụ ọkụkọ na T-shirt 'Venus'." A kpọrọ ha dị ka ụdị mbipụta nwere oke, nke e mepụtara n'ime obere iberibe 100, wee ree ya n'ahịa Japan." Tupu mbipụta ndị a zuru oke ma dị oke ọnụ, mmeghari nke ọrụ nwere oke na silkscreens doro anya na T-shirts na-ebi akwụkwọ, ọsọ mmepụta na-adị ngwa ngwa, ọnụahịa ya dịkwa ọnụ ala.
Mazị Corré kwuru na Vivienne Westwood nyere ikike imepụtagharị ndị ahụ. McLaren were iwe. N'ime ozi email nke 14 October 2008 degara otu gụnyere onye nta akụkọ Steven Daly, Mr McLaren dere, sị: "Ònye kwere ka ha mee nke a? Agwara m Joe ka ọ kwụsị ozugbo degara ya akwụkwọ . Iwe dị m. "
Mazị Corré, bụ́ onye ghọrọ onye nduzi nke Vivienne Foundation n’oge na-adịbeghị anya, “na-eji ikike nwebisiinka nke ọrụ ya n’ụzọ ọmịiko akpata ego maka ihe dị iche iche.” O kwuru na ya ga-enyocha ka ọ ga-esi “kwụsị” adịgboroja. Ms King gara n'ihu na-alụ ọgụ maka ihe nketa Mr McLaren ma kwenyere na a na-ehichapụ ya ugboro ugboro n'akụkọ ihe mere eme nke ya.
Mr. Easton na Mr. Bowey si punk pistol azụmahịa na-aga n'ihu na-ere Ms. Westwood na Mr. McLaren ọrụ site Etsy ụlọ ahịa SeditionariesInTheUK, ọtụtụ n'ime ha na-ebu akwụkwọ ozi nke asambodo sitere na Vivienne Westwood Company, bịanyere aka, e mere na archived site Murray Blewett.These gụnyere nkeewa akara uwe elu na Peter Pan nkwojiaka, Levit-Karks 'patters na inverted. akwa akwa-roba.
Ịntanetị adịghị mma dị ka ọtụtụ ụlọ ahịa ahịa, na ha agaghị ekwu maka isiokwu a, mana ha kwuru na ha na-anọchite anya ọrụ na-enweghị ihe mgbochi, ya bụ foto nke onye nwe ya yi uwe na 1970s.
Maazị Gorman kwuru, sị: “Ọ dị mkpa ịghọta na ọtụtụ ndị a na-eji adịgboroja adịgboroja na-adị njikere ime ihe.” Ha chọrọ n'ezie ikweta na ha so n'akụkọ mbụ ahụ. Nke ahụ bụ ihe ejiji bụ, ọ́ bụghị ya?