Ibicuruzwa byose kuri Vogue byatoranijwe byigenga nabanditsi bacu.Nyamara, turashobora kubona komisiyo zishamikiyeho mugihe uguze ibintu ukoresheje ibicuruzwa byacu.
Nibyo, ibishishwa biza gukina mugihe cyizuba nimbeho, ariko mubyukuri ni umwaka wibanze wambara imyenda yimyenda-kubwibyo rero, ubwoko bwimyenda yimyenda myiza ni ngombwa. Birumvikana ko abiyuhagira nabo bafite ibihe byabo mugihe cyimpeshyi nizuba.Urugero, umurongo wabasare woroheje cyangwa umusimbuzi wambaye imyenda yambaye imyenda yo kwambara yo muri Mata cyangwa yambaye imyenda yo kwambara yo kwambara. Gicurasi.Nubushyuhe bukonje bwimpeshyi nubukonje bukabije bwubukonje, imyambarire myiza kandi nziza cyane yimyenda ni ibice byintwari rwose.Tuvuga amajosi yabakozi hamwe nabakaridinari bahujwe na denim hamwe n imyenda. bikwiriye kuva murugendo kugeza gutemberana numuryango muminsi mikuru yose, cyangwa wenda guterera mugihe cyihuse cyangwa ikawa.Igihe cyose n'ahantu hose ukunda guhuriza hamwe, uzenguruke ukoresheje Vogue ikusanya ibirango byiza byububoshyi bwiza, kuva mubirango byiza nka Khaite na The Row kugeza kubantu bakunda nka Everlane, Loro Piana, Vince na Ganni.
Yashinzwe na Catherine Holstein mu mwaka wa 2016, Khaite ukorera mu mujyi wa New York akundwa cyane kubera ibice by’ibanze bikonjesha bitandukanijwe n’ibikoresho bihebuje ndetse n’ibintu byoroshye ariko bitangaje. Mu buryo bwa mbere, byakozwe muri iki cyegeranyo harimo ibice bizwi cyane nka karigari ya Scarlet yaka cyane, ikariso ya polo Jo swater, hamwe n’imyenda y'urubavu isobanurwa n'imikufi y'ibishushanyo nka Beth na Alessandra midis.
Alex Mill yiyemeje gushaka gutanga ishati nziza, ariko bidatinze yamenyekanye kubera imyenda idoda igihe, itigeze yerekana imideli. Yashinzwe na Alex Drexler (umuhungu w'abahoze ari abayobozi ba Gap na J.Crew hamwe na Old Navy na Madewell washinze Millard “Mickey” Drexler) na Somsack Sikhounmuong (uwahoze ari umuyobozi wa kabili ya J.Crew na Madewell), Alex Mill. ni classique hamwe na quirky yoroheje ikoraho nkumufuka muto, ibishushanyo bishya cyangwa gukinisha amabara.
Yinjiye mu mwaka wa 20, Vince ni ikirango gikundwa cyane cya Los Angeles gitanga ibyingenzi bihindagurika kandi bigahora binonosoye.Imyenda yububoshyi ya kijyambere irageragezwa kandi ni ukuri - abakozi bato bato bato na V-amajosi, amajosi manini manini hamwe na kositimu ya salle - bihuza neza nibirango byashyizweho umukono na silike petitike hamwe nijipo.Ibintu byose biraboneka mubunini busanzwe kandi bwagutse.
Uterwa inkunga na supermodel Kate Moss, Yambaye ubusa Cashmere ni Californiya ikorera muri Californiya yerekeza ku baguzi yibanda kuri-yego, wabitekereje-cashmere. Reba amakaridani yakozwe mu buryo budasubirwaho, abasimbuka, ipantaro, n'amasimbuka kugira ngo ugume ku giciro kidasanzwe, kuva ku ijosi ry’ibihingwa 85 $ kugeza ku madolari 595 yuzuye.
Victor Glemaud, umunyamerika wanyuma wa CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund 2017, yashyize ahagaragara label ye mu 2006, ariko kugeza ubwo yongeye kwisubiraho mu 2015 nibwo yibanze ku myenda ye yerekana amashusho ashize amanga, amabara meza cyane.Iyi ni yo tangazo ryo guhaha igihe yashakishaga pop yishimye cyangwa amagambo akomeye ya silhouette.
Imyitwarire ya Everlane muburyo bwo gufunga igomba kuba yaratumye isosiyete ishimwa nabaguzi ndetse nabanditsi kimwe.Mu rwego rwo kwerekana icyerekezo cyiza cyiza, imyenda yububoshyi iroroshye kandi irarikira, uhereye kumashanyarazi atandukanye ya ReCashmere (akozwe mubikoresho bitunganyirizwa) kugeza kuri karigisi nostalgic, amashati ya polo na kimwe cya kabiri.
Simon Porte Jacquemus yashyize ahagaragara label ye yizina afite imyaka 19, ahumekewe n’amajyepfo y’Ubufaransa. Kuva icyo gihe, uwatsindiye igihembo cyihariye cya LVMH mu mwaka wa 2015 yakomeje gushyira ahagaragara udukino twinshi turimo imyenda y’imyenda myiza, kuva ku myenda no hejuru hejuru y’urunigi rutugu, kugeza kuri siloettes ikwiranye n’imyandikire idasanzwe.
Nubwo byoroheye cyane, icyegeranyo cy’imyenda y’imyenda y’umusaza kiratandukanye cyane na unisex. Ahubwo, ikirango cy’imyidagaduro giherereye mu mujyi wa Los Angeles, cyashinzwe na Greg Chait mu 2007, gitanga ubwiza bw’imikino yo muri Californiya ikinisha cyane, cyaranzwe n’ibara ryinshi ryuzuye kandi ryuzuye, byose biri muri cashmere nziza.
Afashijwe na Mary-Kate na Ashley Olsen, The Row ni kimwe n’imyenda ihebuje. Abacuruzi batangirira ku cyuma cyoroshye cya crewneck na turtleneck kugeza ku bakaridinari boroheje ariko badasobanutse neza, amakariso ya swater hamwe na pullovers zigoye. Mu buryohe bwa Olsens, uburyo rusange busanzwe ni bwiza cyane - butunganijwe neza.
Abakaridinari ba jacquard-strap ya Alanui bagaragaza silhouette nini cyane idafite siloette ifite impande zuzuye zuzuye impande zose, aricyo cyatangije ikirango cyabataliyani kandi cyubatsemo ibikurikira.
Yashinzwe na Jens Grede na Erik Torstensson mu mwaka wa 2008, Frame yabaye inzira yo kwambara imyenda igezweho, nubwo imyenda yo kuboha ari nziza. Buri gihembwe, ikirango gikomeje guhanga udushya kandi gitanga uburyo burambye hamwe nuburyo bushya ariko butari bwo buryo bugezweho, harimo na puff-sleeve pullovers, après-ski Fair Isle, hamwe na kositimu ya cashmere.
Mu gihe Ganni akundwa cyane no gushyira umukono ku bicapo ndetse no gukabya silhouettes, ikirango cyo muri Danemark cyashyizwe ahagaragara mu 2000 n’uwashinze Frans Truelsen nk'umurongo w’imyenda ya cashmere.Mu mpera z'imyaka ya za 2010, umugabo n'umugore bombi Nicolaj Reffstrup na Ditte Reffstrup bafashe ubuyobozi maze batangiza amakariso yuzuye amapine, poplin. ipamba ikomeye, kimwe nubwoya, imyenda iheruka gukoreshwa.
Umunyamideli wavukiye muri Isiraheli kandi ukomoka mu mujyi wa New York, Nili Lotan yashinze ikirango cye mu 2003, yibanda ku bintu bya ngombwa byo kwambara imyenda ya kijyambere hamwe n’ubujurire butajegajega.
Yashinzwe n’abasirikare ba Vogue Meredith Melling na Valerie Macaulay hamwe na Rag & Bone wahoze ayobora iterambere ry’ubucuruzi Molly Howard, La Ligne yibanze ku bice bitajyanye n'igihe.
Mugihe tekinoroji yo gushyushya Uniqlo izwi cyane mugihe cyubukonje, umucuruzi wu Buyapani ucuruza ibicuruzwa bidafite ishingiro iyo bigeze ku myenda yo mu rwego rwohejuru, ihendutse. Uzahora ubona ibyingenzi byuzuye, uhereye kuri swatine nziza ya merino yubwoya kugeza kuri cashmere mumajwi atabogamye namabara ashimishije. Byongeye kandi, hariho ibikorwa byabashushanyije nka JW Anderson.
Cuyana yashinzwe na Shilpa Shah na Karla Gallardo bafite igitekerezo cyikintu gito, cyiza, Cuyana ni ikirango cyerekeza ku baguzi giherereye i San Francisco. Imyenda yimyenda iva hejuru yubudodo kugeza ku mifuka y’uruhu, kandi, byanze bikunze, imyenda yo kuboha iragwira. Buri gice gikozwe mu bikoresho byiza cyane n’abanyabukorikori babishoboye baturutse impande zose z’isi.
Muri wikendi Max Mara yatangiye kuba capsule ya "mibereho" mu 1984 kugirango abone ibyo abagore ba Mara Mara bakeneye ku bice bisanzwe mu gihe cyabo cy’ikiruhuko. Kuva icyo gihe, byabaye inkingi y’ikirango cyiza cy’Ubutaliyani, gitanga ibintu bisanzwe bidasanzwe birimo imyenda idasanzwe.
Proenza Schouler yakunzwe cyane mubudodo kuva label yashirwaho mu 2002 nabashushanyaga Jack McCollough na Lazaro Hernandez. Ibintu bikunzwe cyane birimo pullovers nini cyane, imyenda yo kuboha imbavu hamwe nu kositimu yo hejuru hamwe nijipo, izunguruka kugirango ikorwe neza.
Yashinzwe i Quarona, mu Butaliyani mu 1924, ikirango cyo mu Butaliyani cyo mu rwego rwo hejuru Loro Piana kizwiho imyenda ya ultra-decadent, harimo cashmere nziza cyane n’ibicuruzwa by’ubwoya imbere y’imyenda y’imyenda.
Azwiho imyenda yububoshyi, umuhanga mu kwerekana imideli w’Abafaransa Sonia Rykiel, uzwi ku izina rya “umwamikazi w’ububoshyi,” yakoze ibishushanyo mbonera nk’umukene w’umuhungu w’umukene - washyizwemo, ucuramye kandi ufite amaboko hamwe n’amaboko Ribbed. Abandi benshi babira ibyuya bafite ibyiyumvo bikinisha, uhereye ku basimbuka ibirango bya geometrike kugeza ku myenda myinshi ya intarsia.
Brunello Cucinelli ntabwo akundwa gusa kubera ubukorikori buhebuje bw'Ubutaliyani; uwashinze, uzwi nkumwami wa cashmere, kabuhariwe mubwoko bwose bwimyenda yububoshyi.Kuhereye kuri pointelle-knit alpaca-ivanze karigisi hamwe nabakozi ba crewneck kugeza kumasaro hamwe nibyuma byabugenewe byanditseho umukono wa siporo-chic nziza, ibice bihanitse birahari muburyo bwo kwizihiza iminsi mikuru.
© 2022 Condé Nast.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Apr-12-2022
