Amakuru n'Itangazamakuru

Urashaka rero kugura ikintu gishya, ariko ntushaka gutanga umusanzu mubiharuro biteye ubwoba ubona iyo Googling "ingaruka zibidukikije kumyambarire." Ukora iki?
Niba ushishikajwe no kuramba, birashoboka ko wigeze wumva verisiyo yaya magambo: "Irambye cyane ___ nicyo usanzwe ufite." Nukuri, ariko ntabwo buri gihe ari ingirakamaro, cyane cyane iyo Imyambarire: Imisusire igenda itera imbere, ni nako imari, kandi urashaka gukomeza no gutunga ikintu gishya cyiza.Nyamara, inganda zerekana imideli zigomba kugenda gahoro.Nk'uko raporo iheruka gukorwa na Bloomberg ibivuga, imyambarire ifite 10 ku ijana by'ibicuruzwa byangiza imyuka ya karuboni ku isi ndetse na kimwe cya gatanu cy'umusaruro wa plastiki ku isi.
Ikintu cyiza gikurikiraho cyo kwambara imyenda usanzwe utunze nicyo uruganda rwimyambarire rwita "gukoresha ubwenge." Mubisanzwe duhuza igiciro kinini nubwiza buhanitse, ariko sibyo.
Umuguzi w’imyambarire Amanda Lee McCarty, wakira podcast ya Clotheshorse, amaze imyaka irenga 15 akora nk'umuguzi, cyane cyane mu bucuruzi bw’imyambarire yihuse - afite icyo yita “imyambarire yihuta” y’inganda imbere. Nyuma y’ubukungu bwa 2008, abakiriya bifuzaga kugabanuka, kandi niba abadandaza basanzwe batabitanze, Forever21 yabikoze.
McCarty yavuze ko igisubizo ari ukugura ibintu hejuru hanyuma ugateganya kugurisha ibyinshi muri byo ku giciro - bivuze ko ibiciro byo gukora bigenda bigabanuka. ”Ako kanya, umwenda wabuze mu idirishya.” Ati: “Ibintu byose byabaye byiza.”
McCarty yavuze ko imbaraga zinjiye mu nganda, ndetse zigera no ku bicuruzwa byerekana imideli ihebuje.Niyo mpamvu muri iki gihe, "gushora imari" bitoroshye nko kugura ikintu gihenze. Nubwo bimeze bityo, ntabwo abantu bose bashobora gukoresha amafaranga menshi ku mwenda, kandi nta n'ibicuruzwa byinshi birambye bingana.None rero, ni iki twakagombye gushakisha? Nta gisubizo kiboneye kiboneka, ariko hariho inzira imwe yo kuba nziza.
Hitamo fibre naturel-ipamba, imyenda, ubudodo, ubwoya, ikivuguto, nibindi-bizaramba cyane muri imyenda yawe. By'umwihariko, ubudodo wasangaga ari umwenda uramba ukurikije igihe cyakoreshejwe, ugakurikirwa nubwoya. Ibyo ni bimwe kubera ko imyenda nayo ifite igihe kirekire hagati yo gukaraba, ifasha kugumya kumera neza. kizaba igihe kirekire ku isi, nk'uko raporo y'uyu mwaka ibigaragaza.)
Erin Beatty washinze Rentrayage, yavuze ko akunda kubona ikivuguto na jute kuko ari ibihingwa byongera umusaruro. Akunda cyane cyane urumogi ruva mu bicuruzwa nka Jungmaven na For Days.
Kuri Rebecca Burgess, washinze akaba n'umuyobozi wa Fibershed idaharanira inyungu akaba n'umwanditsi wa Fibershed: Umuryango uharanira abahinzi, abaharanira imideli, n'abakora inganda z’ubukungu bushya bw’imyenda, ni ugushaka gutera inkunga abahinzi borozi baho, cyane cyane imyenda ikozwe muri Amerika. " yakwunganira fibre karemano yihariye ya bioregion. ”
Hariho kandi urwego rwa fibre idafite plastike ariko nayo ntisanzwe rwose.Viscose ni fibre ikomoka kumiti yimbaho ​​yavuwe mumiti hamwe na hydroxide ya sodium na carbone disulfide.Hariho ibibazo bimwe na bimwe bya viscose: Ukurikije ibyiza kuri wewe, inzira yo gukora viscose irasesagura kandi yangiza ibidukikije, kandi amaherezo yibikorwa byangiza amashyamba.
Vuba aha, Eco Vero - fibre ya viscose ikoresheje uburyo bushinzwe kubungabunga ibidukikije kandi ntigire ingaruka mbi ku musaruro - yatangijwe - bityo rero harafatwa ingamba zo kunoza ikirenge cya karuboni yiyi fibre-synthique. (Noneho turasobanura igice cya sintetike.
Reba imyenda y'ibidukikije: Ibisobanuro birambuye ku musaruro wa fibre - hari inzira nkeya kandi nkeya zirambye zo gukora fibre naturel nka pamba na silk, kimwe na fibre fibre fibre fibre.Urugero, umusaruro wubudodo wangiza haba mu gusohora no kwica udukoko twitwa silkworm, ariko urashobora gushakisha ubudodo bwa Ahimsa bushakisha uburyo bwogukora neza. Icyemezo cya Organic Textile Standard hamwe nibisabwa cyane kubidukikije.Nkuko tuvuga, hashyizweho ubundi buryo bushya bwimyenda ya plastike; kurugero, "uruhu rwibikomoka ku bimera" kuva kera byakozwe muri plastiki ikomoka kuri peteroli, ariko ibikoresho bishya nkimpu z ibihumyo nimpu yinanasi byerekana amasezerano akomeye.
Google ninshuti yawe: Ntabwo ibirango byose bitanga ibisobanuro birambuye kuburyo imyenda ikorwa, ariko abakora imyenda bose basabwa gushyiramo ikirango cyimbere kigabanya fibre yimyenda yimyenda ku ijanisha.Kate Caric wikigo cyimyenda irambye ikorera i Londres yerekana ko ibicuruzwa byinshi - cyane cyane imideli yimyambarire yihuta - byangiza nkana ibirango byabo.Plastike ijya kumazina ya google utazi.
Niba duhinduye imitekerereze yacu tukabona kugura ikariso nk'imyaka myinshi cyangwa ishoramari rikwiye, aho kuba icyifuzo, birashoboka cyane ko tuzakomeza ibyo tugura kandi twambara ibyo dutunze. Nyuma yo gusuzuma imyitwarire yo kugura, Caric avuga ko ashyira imbere imyenda imushimisha - harimo n'ibigenda. umva umerewe neza. ”
Beatty yemera ko imyenda wambara rimwe cyangwa kabiri ari cyo kibazo: “Mu byukuri, ni ibihe bice bizasobanura isura yawe inshuro nyinshi?” Igice cyibyo ni ugutekereza uburyo bwo kwita kumyenda mbere yo kuyigura; kurugero, birashoboka ko byumye gusa? Niba nta karere kangiza ibidukikije byangiza ibidukikije mukarere kawe, ntibishobora kumvikana kugura ibicuruzwa.
Kuri McCarty, aho kugura ku bushake, yafashe umwanya wo gutekereza uburyo n'aho iki gice kizahurira mu myenda ye. ”Ntabwo uzatangazwa n'imyenda myinshi ikennye cyane, idashoboka ishobora guhita ikurwa mu buzima bwawe na siporo.”
Mu gusoza “Eaarth” ya Bill McKibben, kimwe mu bitabo byizewe nasomye ku kibazo cy’ikirere, yashoje avuga ko, ahanini, ejo hazaza hacu hazaza ari ukugaruka ku cyerekezo cy’ubukungu cy’ahantu hato. Burugumesitiri arabyemera: kuguma mu karere ni urufunguzo rwo guhaha mu buryo burambye. Ndashaka ko mbashakira ubukungu bwanjye kugira ngo mbone uko batwara. ” ibidukikije binyuze mu guhitamo kwanjye. ”
Abrima Erwiah - umwarimu, impuguke mu bijyanye n’imyambarire irambye akaba ari nawe washinze Studio 189 - afata inzira nk'iyi. Mu gihe agura ibicuruzwa bikomeye birambye nka Eileen Fisher, umuvandimwe Vellies na Mara Hoffman, akunda gushaka imishinga mito mu majyaruguru ya New York. "Nkunda ko ushobora kujyayo ukareba icyo bakora".
Akazi akora ubu kungukirwa nigihe cye cyo kwitanga muri Gana no kubana na bene wabo, ibyo bikaba byaramufashije kongera gutekereza ku buryo agura. Kuba afitanye isano ikomeye n’inzobere mu myambaro byamufashije kumva uburyo ibintu byose kuva mu murima kugeza ku myenda bifitanye isano. "Ahantu nka Gana hafite ibintu byinshi byo mu ntoki, uratahura uko bigenda mugihe utagikeneye ibintu byawe ukundi."
Iyo ikirango giharanira kumenya inkomoko yimyambarire yacyo no gukorera mu mucyo kubikorwa byacyo, byerekana indangagaciro zifatika.Niba ugura imbonankubone, Erwiah avuga ko ari byiza kwibaza ibibazo bijyanye nimyitwarire myiza kandi irambye.Ubu ni bumwe muburyo bwiza bwo kwisuzumisha niba imyambarire yabo ikwiye gushora imari.Nubwo niba ikirango kidafite ibisubizo byose, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi, niba ufite uruhare runini mubucuruzi. niba abakozi babajijwe kenshi kubijyanye no kuramba, mugihe, barashobora kumenya ko ibyo aribyo byambere byabakiriya kandi bagahindura.Mu byukuri, kugura ibintu byinshi ubu bibera kumurongo.Icyo Caric yashakaga ni ukumenya niba ikirango cyasuye inganda zacyo kandi niba barashyizemo amakuru kurubuga rwabo kuburyo bahembera abakozi babo.Ntabwo bibabaza kohereza imeri niba ufite ibibazo byinshi.
Gusubiramo ni rimwe mu magambo azwi cyane akoreshwa mu guhanagura imyambarire yihuse. By'umwihariko polyester yongeye gukoreshwa irashobora kuba ikibazo.Ariko nk'uko Erwiah abivuga, byose bijyanye no gushushanya ufite intego. Avuga ko umutambiko uhindura filozofiya. Nibyiza cyane guhindura amacupa ya pulasitike mu myenda ya siporo, ariko ni iki gihinduka nyuma yacyo? Erwiah yagize ati: "rimwe na rimwe ni byiza kutabihindura." Niba ari impu ebyiri, birashoboka ko ari ukuyikoresha no kuyiha ubuzima bwa kabiri, aho gushora imari myinshi mu guhanga ikindi kintu. Nta gisubizo kiboneye. "
Igihe Beatty yahisemo gutangira gukodesha, yibanze ku gutunganya ibyo yari asanzwe afite, akoresheje imyenda ya vintage, imyenda yapfuye, n'ibindi bikoresho byari bisanzwe bikwirakwizwa - yahoraga ashakisha amabuye y'agaciro, nk'ayo ma T-shati imwe. Amenshi muri ayo ma t-shati ni imvange ya pamba-polyester, ariko kubera ko imaze kubaho, igomba kuzenguruka nk'imyenda igihe kirekire gishoboka, Beatty agerageza kuyikoresha kuko idasaza vuba. Niba udakeneye umwenda wongeye gukoreshwa ku mubiri wawe, urashobora kuwuzamura mu rugo rwawe. "Beatty.
Rimwe na rimwe, ntabwo buri gihe ubona imyitwarire yikirango cyangwa nibirimo fibre mugihe uguze ibintu byakoreshejwe.Nyamara, gutanga isura nshya kumyenda isanzwe ireremba kwisi kandi bikarangirira mumyanda ni amahitamo arambye.
Ndetse no mu maduka ya kabiri, hari uburyo bwo gusuzuma ubuziranenge kandi burambye, Caric yagize ati: "Bimwe mu bintu nshakisha ako kanya ni imyenda igororotse kandi idoda." Kuri denim, Caric avuga ibintu bibiri ugomba kwitondera: Byaciwe kuri selvedge, kandi imbere no hanze imbere birashushanyijeho kabiri. Izi ninzira zose zo gushimangira imyenda kumara igihe kirekire gishoboka mbere yo gukenera gusanwa.
Kugura umwenda bikubiyemo gufata inshingano zubuzima bwikintu - bivuze ko tumaze guca muri ibyo byose kandi tukabigura mubyukuri, tugomba kubyitaho neza. Cyane cyane nimyenda ya sintetike, uburyo bwo kumesa biragoye.Ni igitekerezo cyiza cyo gushora mumufuka wo kuyungurura kugirango uhagarike irekurwa rya microplastike muri sisitemu yamazi, kandi niba ubishaka kugirango ukoreshe ibintu byinshi, kugirango ushireho imashini, kugirango ushireho ibikoresho, kugirango ushireho ibikoresho, kugirango ushireho ibikoresho, kugirango ushireho. yumisha rwose. ”Mugihe ushidikanya, kwoza kandi umuyaga wumye. Nicyo kintu cyiza ushobora gukora.” Beatty.
McCarty arasaba kandi gusoma ikirango cyita kumyenda imbere yimyenda.Numara kumenyera ibimenyetso nibikoresho, uzatangira kumenya ibigomba gukama byumye nibikwiriye gukaraba intoki / ikirere cyumye.McCarty irasaba kandi kugura igitabo cyitwa "Handy House Hints Hints" cya Heloise, ibyo akunze kubona mububiko bwamafaranga munsi yama $ 5, kandi akiga gusimbuza tekinike, kandi akamenya uburyo bwo gutobora ibintu, nkuburyo bwo gusimbuza ibishishwa. rimwe na rimwe, birakwiye gushora imari mubudozi.Nyuma yo guhindura umurongo wikoti rya vintage, McCarty yizera ko azayambara byibuze mumyaka 20 iri imbere.
Ubundi buryo bwo kuvugurura imyenda irangi cyangwa yambarwa: irangi. ”Beatty ati:" Ntuzigere na rimwe usuzugura imbaraga z'irangi ry'umukara. "Iri ni irindi banga. Turabikora buri gihe. Bikora ibitangaza."
Mugutanga imeri yawe, wemera kumagambo yacu n'amabwiriza yerekeye ubuzima bwite no kwakira itumanaho rya imeri kuri twe.
Iyi imeri izakoreshwa mu kwinjira ku mbuga zose za New York.Muhereza imeri yawe, wemera amategeko yacu na politiki y’ibanga no kwakira itumanaho rya imeri kuri twe.
Nkigice cya konte yawe, uzakira amakuru mashya hamwe nibisabwa kuva i New York kandi urashobora guhitamo umwanya uwariwo wose.
Iyi imeri izakoreshwa mu kwinjira ku mbuga zose za New York.Muhereza imeri yawe, wemera amategeko yacu na politiki y’ibanga no kwakira itumanaho rya imeri kuri twe.
Nkigice cya konte yawe, uzakira amakuru mashya hamwe nibisabwa kuva i New York kandi urashobora guhitamo umwanya uwariwo wose.