Amakuru n'Itangazamakuru

Muri iki gihembwe, uruganda rukora imideli rwo muri Turukiya rwahuye n’ibibazo byinshi, uhereye ku kibazo cya Covid-19 gikomeje kuba ndetse n’amakimbirane ya politiki mu bihugu duturanye, kugeza aho ihungabana ry’ibicuruzwa bitangwa, ibihe by’ubukonje budasanzwe bihagarika umusaruro ndetse n’ubukungu bw’igihugu, nkuko bigaragara mu kibazo cy’amafaranga ya Turukiya nk'uko ikinyamakuru Financial Times cyo mu Bwongereza kibitangaza. Ikinyamakuru Times cyatangaje ko ifaranga ryageze ku myaka 20 hejuru ya 54% muri Werurwe uyu mwaka.
Nubwo hari inzitizi, impano zashizweho kandi zigenda zivuka muri Turukiya zerekana ubuhanga n’icyizere mu cyumweru cy’imyambarire ya Istanbul muri iki gihembwe, zihita zifata ibintu byinshi ndetse n’ingamba zo kwerekana ingamba zo kwaguka no kwerekana ko bahari ku isi muri iki gihembwe.
Imyitozo ngororangingo yaberaga mu mateka nk'ingoro ya Ottoman hamwe n'itorero rya Crimée rimaze imyaka 160 igaruka kuri gahunda, ihujwe n'amaturo ya interineti, ndetse n'imurikagurisha rishya ryafunguwe, ibiganiro nyunguranabitekerezo hamwe na pop-up kuri Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Abateguye ibirori - Ishyirahamwe ryohereza ibicuruzwa mu mahanga rya Istanbul cyangwa İHKİB, Ishyirahamwe ry’imyambarire ya Turukiya (MTD) hamwe n’Ikigo cy’imyambarire cya Istanbul (IMA) - bafatanije n’inzu ya Istanbul Soho guha abenegihugu ubunararibonye bwo kwerekana no gusura babinyujije mu banyamuryango b’inganda zamamaza kuri interineti.
I Istanbul, hagaragaye imbaraga nshya mubikorwa no kwerekana ibikorwa byumubiri mugihe abitabiriye amahugurwa bongeye kwifatanya nabo mumiryango yabo mubihe byikirere.Mu gihe bamwe bari bagishidikanya, ibyiyumvo bishyushye byiganje.
Umushinga w'imyenda y'abagabo Niyazi Erdogan yagize ati: “[Turabuze] kuba hamwe.” Ingufu ni nyinshi kandi abantu bose bifuza kuba muri iki gitaramo. ”
Hasi, BoF ihura nabashushanyo 10 bakizamuka kandi bashizweho mubirori byabo byicyumweru cyimyambarire kugirango bamenye uko ubukangurambaga bwabo hamwe ningamba zo kwamamaza byahindutse muri Istanbul muri iki gihembwe.
Şansım Adalı yize i Buruseli mbere yo gushinga Sudi Etuz.Umushushanya, uharanira uburyo bwa mbere bwa digitale, yibanda cyane ku bucuruzi bwe bwa digitale muri iki gihe kandi agabanya ubucuruzi bwe bw’imyenda. Akoresha imiterere y’ukuri igaragara, abahanzi ba digitale n’abashakashatsi b’ubukorikori, ndetse n’ikusanyamakuru rya NFT hamwe n’imyenda mike.
Şansım Adalı yateguye imurikagurisha rye mu rusengero rw’Urwibutso rwa Crimée hafi ya Galata muri Istanbul, aho ibishushanyo bye bya digitale byerekanwe kuri avatar ya digitale kandi bikerekanwa kuri ecran ya metero 8. Nyuma yo gupfusha se na Covid-19, yasobanuye ko kugeza ubu “bitakumva neza” kugira abantu benshi mu kwerekana imideli hamwe. Ahubwo, yakoresheje imiterere ye ya digitale ahantu hatagaragara.
Yatangarije BoF ati: "Ni ibintu bitandukanye cyane, kugira imurikagurisha rya digitale ahahoze hubakwa." Nkunda ikinyuranyo. Abantu bose barabizi kuri iri torero, ariko ntawe ujyamo. Igisekuru gishya ntanubwo izi hantu kibaho. Noneho, ndashaka gusa kubona abakiri bato imbere kandi nibuka ko dufite iyi nyubako nziza. "
Igitaramo cya digitale iherekeza opera nzima, kandi umuririmbyi yambara imwe mumyambarire mike Adal akora uyumunsi - ariko cyane cyane, Sudi Etuz arashaka gukomeza kwibanda kuri digitale.
Ati: "Gahunda zanjye z'ejo hazaza ni ukugumya gusa uruhande rw'imyenda rw'ikirango cyanjye gito kuko ntatekereza ko isi ikeneye ikindi kirango kugira ngo kibyazwe umusaruro. Nibanze ku mishinga ya sisitemu. Mfite itsinda ry'abashakashatsi ba mudasobwa, abahanzi ba digitale n'abahanzi b'imyenda Team. Itsinda ryanjye rishushanya ni Gen Z, kandi ngerageza kubumva, kubareba, kubatega amatwi."
Gökay Gündoğdu yimukiye i New York yiga imicungire y’ibicuruzwa mbere yo kwinjira mu ishuri rya Domus i Milan mu 2007.Gündoğdu yakoraga mu Butaliyani mbere yo gushyira ahagaragara ikirango cy’imyenda y’abagore TAGG mu 2014 - Imyifatire Gökay Gündoğdu. Abacuruzi barimo Luisa Via Roma hamwe n’urubuga rwe rwa e-bucuruzi rwatangije mu gihe cy’icyorezo.
TAGG yerekana icyegeranyo cy'iki gihembwe mu buryo bwerekana imurikagurisha ndangamurage ryongerewe mu buryo bwa digitale: “Dukoresha kodegisi ya QR hamwe n'ukuri kwongerewe kugira ngo turebe filime nzima ziva ku rukuta - amashusho yerekana amashusho akiriho, kimwe no kwerekana imideli.” Gündoğdu yabwiye BoF.
Ati: "Ntabwo ndi umuntu wa digitale na gato," ariko mu gihe cy'icyorezo, ati: "ibyo dukora byose ni ibya digitale. Dutuma urubuga rwacu rworoha kandi rworoshye kubyumva. Turi mu rubuga rw’imicungire y’ibicuruzwa] Joor yerekanye icyegeranyo muri 2019 kandi yunguka abakiriya bashya kandi bashya muri Amerika, Isiraheli, Qatar, Koweti."
N'ubwo yatsinze, gushyira TAGG kuri konti mpuzamahanga muri iki gihembwe byagaragaye ko bitoroshye. "Ibitangazamakuru mpuzamahanga n'abaguzi bahora bifuza kutubona ikintu muri twe muri Turukiya. Ntabwo rwose nkoresha ibintu ndangamuco - ubwiza bwanjye ni buke cyane". Ati.
Ikibazo cy’ubukungu nacyo cyagize ingaruka ku byegeranyo bye muri iki gihembwe: "Lira yo muri Turukiya iratakaza imbaraga, bityo ibintu byose bikaba bihenze cyane. Gutumiza imyenda mu mahanga birahuze. Guverinoma ivuga ko udakwiye guhagarika amarushanwa hagati y’abakora imyenda yo mu mahanga n’isoko ry’imbere mu gihugu. Ugomba kwishyura umusoro w’inyongera kugira ngo utumize mu mahanga." Kubera iyo mpamvu, abashushanyaga bavanze imyenda ikomoka mu karere hamwe n’ibitumizwa mu Butaliyani n'Ubufaransa.
Umuyobozi ushinzwe guhanga Yakup Bicer yashyize ahagaragara ikirango cye Y Plus, ikirango cya unisex, muri 2019 nyuma yimyaka 30 mu nganda zishushanya Turukiya.Y Plus yatangiriye mu cyumweru cy’imyambarire ya London muri Gashyantare 2020.
Icyegeranyo cya digitale ya Yakup Bicer Autumn / Winter 22-23 icyegeranyo cyahumetswe n "intwari za clavier zitazwi nababunganira ingengabitekerezo ya crypto-anarchiste" kandi itanga ubutumwa bwo kurengera ubwisanzure bwa politiki kurubuga rusange.
Yatangarije BoF ati: "Ndashaka gukomeza [kwerekana] mu gihe gito," nk'uko twabikoze mu bihe byashize, guhuza abaguzi mu cyumweru cy'imyambarire biratwara igihe kinini kandi biraremereye mu bijyanye n'amafaranga. Ubu dushobora kugera mu mpande zose z'isi icyarimwe dukoraho akabuto dukoresheje uburyo bwa sisitemu. ”
Usibye ikoranabuhanga, Bicer akoresha umusaruro waho kugira ngo akemure ibibazo bituruka ku isoko - kandi mu kubikora, yizeye ko hazakomeza kubaho uburyo burambye. ”Dufite imbogamizi z’ingendo kandi ubu turi mu ntambara [mu karere k’isi], bityo ikibazo cy’imizigo gitera kigira ingaruka ku bucuruzi bwacu bwose.
Ece na Ayse Ege bashyize ahagaragara ikirango cyabo Dice Kayek mu 1992. Mbere cyakorewe i Paris, ikirango cyinjiye muri Fédération Française de la Couture mu 1994 maze gihabwa igihembo mpuzamahanga cya Jameel III, igihembo mpuzamahanga cy’ubuhanzi n’ibishushanyo bigezweho byatewe n’imigenzo ya kisilamu, mu 2013. Ikirango giherutse kwimurira sitidiyo yacyo muri Istanbul kandi gifite abacuruzi 90 ku isi.
Bashiki ba Dice Kayek Ece na Ayse Ege berekanye icyegeranyo cyabo muri videwo yimyambarire muri iki gihembwe - format ya digitale ubu bamenyereye, imaze gukora firime yimyambarire kuva 2013. Fungura kandi uyisubiremo. Ifite agaciro gakomeye. Mu myaka 10 cyangwa 12, urashobora kongera kuyireba. Turahitamo ubwoko bwayo. "Ece yabwiye BoF.
Uyu munsi, Dice Kayek agurisha ku rwego mpuzamahanga mu Burayi, Amerika, Uburasirazuba bwo hagati n'Ubushinwa. Binyuze mu iduka ryabo i Paris, batandukanije ubunararibonye bw’abaguzi bakoresheje gasutamo ya Turukiya nk'ingamba zo gucuruza inararibonye. "Ntushobora guhangana n'ibi bicuruzwa binini ahantu hose, kandi nta nyungu yo kubikora."
Bashiki bacu mbere bakoraga ubucuruzi bwabo kuva i Paris mbere yo kwimukira i Istanbul, aho sitidiyo yabo ihurira n’icyumba cyerekanirwamo cya Beaumonti. Dice Kayek yinjiye mu bucuruzi bwabo maze abona umusaruro ugenda wunguka, "ikintu tutashoboraga gukora igihe twakoraga mu rundi ruganda." Mu kuzana umusaruro murugo, bashiki bacu kandi bizeye ko ubukorikori bwa Turukiya bushyigikirwa kandi bugakomeza mu cyegeranyo cyabwo.
Niyazi Erdogan ni umushinga washinze icyumweru cy’imyambarire ya Istanbul na Visi-Perezida w’ishyirahamwe ry’imyambarire ya Turukiya, akaba n'umwarimu mu ishuri ry’imyambarire rya Istanbul. Usibye umurongo w’imyenda y’abagabo, yashinze ikirango cy’ibikoresho NIYO mu 2014 kandi yatsindiye igihembo cy’ingoro ndangamurage y’i Burayi muri uwo mwaka.
Niyazi Erdoğan yerekanye icyegeranyo cye cy'imyenda y'abagabo muri iki gihembwe: "Twese turimo gukora imibare - twerekana muri Metaverse cyangwa NFTs. Tugurisha icyegeranyo haba mu mibare ndetse no ku mubiri, tunyura mu byerekezo byombi. Turashaka kwitegura ejo hazaza hombi."
Icyakora, mu gihembwe gitaha, yagize ati: "Ndatekereza ko tugomba kwerekana igitaramo cy'umubiri. Imyambarire ni sosiyete ndetse n'ibyiyumvo, kandi abantu bakunda kubana. Ku bantu bahanga, dukeneye ibi."
Mu gihe cy'icyorezo, ikirango cyashizeho iduka rya interineti maze gihindura ibyo bakusanyije kugira ngo bibe “kugurisha neza” kuri interineti, hitawe ku mpinduka z’abaguzi mu gihe cy’icyorezo.Yabonye kandi impinduka muri iki kigo cy’abaguzi: “Ndabona imyenda yanjye y’abagabo igurishwa no ku bagore, ku buryo nta mipaka ihari.”
Nkumwarimu muri IMA, Erdogan ahora yigira kubisekuruza bizaza. "Kubisekuru nka Alpha, niba uri mumyambarire, ugomba kubyumva. Icyerekezo cyanjye nukumva ibyo bakeneye, kuba ingamba zijyanye no kuramba, imibare, ibara, guca no kumiterere - tugomba gukorana nabo."
Umunyeshuri wahawe impamyabumenyi ya Istituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker yakoraga mu masosiyete nka Frankie Morello, Colmar na Furla mbere yo gushyira ahagaragara label ye mu mwaka wa 2012, agashushanya ibyegeranyo byiteguye kwambara, ubukwe na couture. Yerekanye i Londres, Paris na Milan Fashion Weeks.
Nihan Peker yijihije isabukuru yimyaka 10 ishize muri iki gihembwe, Nihan Peker yakoze imurikagurisha mu ngoro ya Çırağan, ahahoze ari ingoro ya Ottoman yahinduwe muri hoteri ireba Bosphorus. "Peker yabwiye BoF ati:" Nyuma yimyaka icumi, ndumva nshobora kuguruka mu bwisanzure kandi nkarenga imipaka yanjye. "
Peker yicaye ku mwanya wa mbere muri iki gihembwe hamwe n'ibyamamare byo muri Turukiya yambaye ibishushanyo bivuye mu byegeranyo bye mbere. Ati: "Byatwaye igihe kugira ngo nerekane ko ndi mu gihugu cyanjye."
Ati: "Abashushanya bose bo muri Turukiya bagomba gutekereza ku mbogamizi z’akarere kacu rimwe na rimwe. Mvugishije ukuri, nk'igihugu, tugomba guhangana n'ibibazo bikomeye mu mibereho no mu bya politiki, bityo twese tugatakaza imbaraga. Ubu icyo nibandaho ni ukubera ibyegeranyo byanjye byiteguye kwambara no kwambara haute bitera ubwoko bushya bwo kwambara, gukora."
Nyuma yo guhabwa impamyabumenyi muri Istanbul Fashion Institute mu 2014, Akyuz yize impamyabumenyi ihanitse mu bijyanye na Menswear Design mu ishuri rya Marangoni Academy i Milan.Yakoraga muri Ermenegildo Zegna na Costume National mbere yo gusubira muri Turukiya mu 2016 maze atangiza ikirango cye cy'abagabo mu 2018.
Mu gitaramo cya gatandatu cya shampiyona, Selen Akyuz yakoze filime yerekanwe mu nzu ya Soho i Istanbul no ku rubuga rwa interineti: “Ni filime, ntabwo rero ari imyiyerekano yerekana imideli, ariko ndatekereza ko ikomeje gukora. Nanone amarangamutima.”
Nka bucuruzi buciriritse, Akyuz agenda yubaka buhoro buhoro abakiriya mpuzamahanga mpuzamahanga, hamwe nabakiriya ubu babarizwa muri Amerika, Rumaniya na Alubaniya. "Ati:" Sinshaka gusimbuka igihe cyose, ariko ndabifata gahoro gahoro, intambwe ku yindi, kandi mfata inzira yapimwe. "Ati:" Dukora ibintu byose kumeza yanjye yo kurya. Nta bicuruzwa byinshi nkora.
Ubu buryo bwagabanutse bugera no ku bafatanyabikorwa be bakora. ”Aho gukorana n’abakora inganda nini, nashakishije abadozi bato bo mu karere kugira ngo bashyigikire ikirango cyanjye, ariko biragoye kubona abakandida babishoboye. Abanyabukorikori bakoresha tekinike gakondo biragoye kubibona - gufata abakozi bo mu gisekuru kizaza bigarukira.
Gökhan Yavaş yahawe impamyabumenyi muri DEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design mu 2012 yiga muri IMA mbere yo gushyira ahagaragara ikirango cye cy’abagabo bambaye imyenda yo mu muhanda muri 2017. Kuri ubu ikirango kirimo gukorana n’amasosiyete nka DHL.
Muri iki gihembwe, Gökhan Yavaş yerekana amashusho magufi ndetse no kwerekana imideli - ye ya mbere mu myaka itatu. Ati: "Turabuze rwose - igihe kirageze cyo kongera kuvugana n'abantu. Turashaka gukomeza gukora imideli yerekana imideli kuko kuri Instagram, biragoye kandi bigoye kuvugana. Birenze guhura no kumva abantu imbonankubone."
Ikirangantego kirimo kuvugurura imikorere yacyo. ”Yasobanuye ko twahagaritse gukoresha uruhu nyarwo n’uruhu nyarwo,” yasobanuye ko isura eshatu za mbere z’iki cyegeranyo zashizwe hamwe zivuye mu gitambaro cyakozwe mu byegeranyo byabanje.
Kwibanda ku buryo burambye byagaragaye ko bitoroshye ku bicuruzwa, aho imbogamizi ya mbere ari ugushaka imyenda myinshi ya milleti ku baguzi. Ati: “Ugomba gutumiza byibura metero 15 z'imyenda ku baguzi bawe, kandi icyo ni ikibazo gikomeye kuri twe.” Ikibazo cya kabiri bahura nacyo ni ugufungura iduka muri Turukiya kugurisha imyenda y’abagabo, mu gihe abaguzi baho bibanda ku gishushanyo mbonera cy’imyenda y’abagore bo muri Turukiya. Kugeza ubu, mu gihe ikirango kigurisha binyuze ku rubuga rwabo ndetse n’ububiko mpuzamahanga muri Kanada na Londres, icyifuzo cyabo ni Aziya - cyane cyane Koreya n'Ubushinwa.
Ikirangantego cyambarwa cyambarwa Bashaques cyashinzwe mumwaka wa 2014 na Başak Cankeş. Ikirango kigurisha swimwear na kimonos bifite insanganyamatsiko yubuhanzi.
Umuyobozi w'irema Başak Cankeş yabwiye BoF nyuma gato yo kwerekana icyegeranyo cye aheruka kwerekana mu minota 45 yerekanwe muri Soho House i Istanbul ati: "Mubisanzwe, nkora ibihangano byerekana ibihangano byambarwa."
Imurikagurisha rivuga amateka y’urugendo rwe muri Peru na Kolombiya gukorana n’abanyabukorikori babo, akurikiza imiterere n’ibimenyetso bya Anatoliya, kandi “akababaza uko bumva bameze kuri Anatoliya [icapiro]“. Hifashishijwe umurage usanganywe w’umuco wa shamanisme, uruhererekane rugaragaza imikorere y’ubukorikori busanzwe hagati ya Anatoliya ya Turukiya n’ibihugu byo muri Amerika yepfo.
Agira ati: “hafi 60 ku ijana by'icyegeranyo ni igice kimwe gusa, byose byakozwe n'abagore bo muri Peru na Anatoliya.”
Cankeş agurisha abakusanya ibihangano muri Turukiya kandi yifuza ko abakiriya bamwe bakora ibyegeranyo by’ingoro ndangamurage bivuye ku mirimo ye, asobanura ko "adashishikajwe no kuba ikirango cy’isi yose kuko bigoye kuba ikirango ku isi kandi kirambye. Sinshaka no gukora icyegeranyo icyo ari cyo cyose cy’ibice 10 usibye koga cyangwa kimonos. Ni ibintu byose byerekana ibihangano, bihinduka tuzashyira kuri NFTs."
Itsinda rya Karma ryerekana impano igaragara muri Istanbul Moda Academy, yashinzwe mu 2007, itanga impamyabumenyi mu bijyanye no kwerekana imideli, ikoranabuhanga no guteza imbere ibicuruzwa, imicungire y’imyambarire, hamwe n’itumanaho n’itangazamakuru.
Hakalmaz yatangarije BoF ati: "Ikibazo nyamukuru mfite ni ibihe by'ikirere, kubera ko mu byumweru bibiri bishize hagwa urubura, bityo rero dufite ibibazo byinshi bijyanye no gutanga amasoko ndetse no gushakira imyenda."
Hakalmaz na we ntagikoresha ibisubizo by'ikoranabuhanga kugira ngo ashyigikire umusaruro we, agira ati: “Sinkunda gukoresha ikoranabuhanga kandi nkirinda kure cyane bishoboka kuko nahitamo gukora ubukorikori kugira ngo nkomeze guhura n'ibyahise.”