Nhau uye Press

Sid Vicious aisazombotenda kuti hembe dzake dzekare dzaikosha zvakadini uye kuti vatengesi venhema vaizoenda kune hurefu hwakakura kuti vanyepedzere.
Kasiri kare, London-based pop tsika munyori wenhoroondo Paul Gorman, munyori weThe Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, uye Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman akawana chidimbu chaMarr. Shirt naMalcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, munenge muna 1977, kuti iongororwe.
Yakagadzirwa kubva muslin uye inoratidzira girafu ino zivikanwa ipapo nemuimbi Jamie Reid yemaoko eSex Pistols' "Anarchy in the UK" imwe chete.
Kana chiri chokwadi, ichawana mutengo wakanaka paokisheni.Pakutengesa kweBonhams muna Chivabvu, hembe yeparachute yaVaMcLaren muna 1977 naMs. Westwood yakatengeswa nemadhora zviuru zvitanhatu nemazana matanhatu nemakumi matanhatu, pamwe chete nejuzi dema uye dzvuku remohair risingawanzo rakarukwa nedehenya uye crossbones uye "Sex "Sex" Pistols 8 8 madhora" No Fura.
Zvisinei, VaGorman havana kugutsikana kuti hembe yavaiongorora ndiyo yaitaurwa nemuridzi.
“MuMuslim haachashandi mune dzimwe nzvimbo,” vakadaro VaGorman.” Asi kumwewo, jira racho rakanga richiri nyoro kwazvo. Ingi yacho yakanga isiri yemhando yema1970 uye haina kupararira mujira racho. Achibvunzwa nezve tsvarakadenga iyi, mutengesi akabvisa chidimbu kubva kuimba yeokisheni ndokuti chakazotengeswa pachivande. ”Kungori hembe imwe chete yakafanana muunganidzwa wemuseum, Gorman akadaro, "uye ndinofunga kuti zvine mubvunzo zvakare."
Tikugashirei munyika isinganzwisisike uye ine mari yakawanda yemapunk ekunyepa. Mumakore makumi matatu apfuura, tichinyepedzera kunge kugadzirwa nemaoko nemaitiro ekutanga anosanganisira S-uye-M netsvina mifananidzo, kucheka kwetsvarakadenga uye tambo, mauto akawandisa mapatani, tweeds uye latex - Sid Vicious nevezera rake muAnarchy Chii chakava nemukurumbira muindasitiri - yakazova nemukurumbira munguva ino.
"Ndinogamuchira maemail akati wandei mwedzi wega wega ndichibvunza kana chimwe chinhu chiri chokwadi," akadaro Steven Philip, muchengeti wezvinyorwa zvefashoni, muunganidzi uye murairidzi.
Kwehafu yezana remakore, Mr McLaren naMs Westwood vakavhura counterculture boutique yavo, Let It Rock, pa430 King's Road, London. Chitoro ichocho, icho zvino chozivikanwa seWorlds End, ndiyo nzvimbo yekuberekwa kwefashoni yemumugwagwa.
Mumakore gumi akatevera, chitoro chakashandurwa kuita Bonde uye Seditionaries, zvichiunza chitarisiko uye ruzha rwaive nemhedzisiro uye saka rwaikwanisa kuunganidzwa.
Dior naFendi's artistic director, Kim Jones, ane zvakawanda zvebasa rekutanga uye anotenda kuti "Westwood naMcLaren vakagadzira purani yezvipfeko zvemazuva ano. Vaive vaoni," anodaro.
Mamiziyamu mazhinji anounganidzawo zvinhu izvi.Michael Costiff, socialite, interior designer uye muchengeti weWorld Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, aive mutengi wekutanga waMcLaren naAmai Westwood. Zvipfeko 178 zvaakaunganidza nemukadzi wake, Gerlinde, zvino zvave muunganidzwa weVictoria and Albert Museum, iyo yakatenga Mr Costiff,500 collection
Kukosha kwevintage McLaren neWestwood kunoita kuti vave chinangwa chevapambi vemafashoni.Pamwero wakanyanya kujeka, replicas inowanikwa online uye inotengeswa zvakananga uye zvakachipa, pasina hunyengeri - inongozivikanwa graphic pane nyore t-shirt.
"Chidimbu ichi chinobva kumashure mune zvehunyanzvi," akadaro Paul Stolper, muLondon-based gallerist ane muunganidzwa wakakura wezvinyorwa zvepakutanga zvepunk zvino muMetropolitan Museum of Art.
Kozoitawo emanyepo ari pachena, seChibereko chakachipa cheLoom t-shirt ine akarovererwa Mickey Mouse, kana iyo $190 "SEX yepakutanga" shorts yehusungwa kubva kuA Store Robot muTokyo ayo anooneka zviri nyore seasiri epakutanga, Nekuda kwejira idzva uye chokwadi chekuti chimiro ichi hachina kumbobvira chaitwa mumusika wemafashama.197
Gore rapfuura, VaGorman vakawana chipfeko chinonzi “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” paeBay kuUK, chavakatenga sechidzidzo che £100 (inenge $139).
"Muenzaniso unonakidza wekunyepedzera," akadaro. "Hazvina kumbovapo." Asi kuwedzerwa kwechirevo che'Kuparadza' uye kurwisa kwekuedza kushandisa munhu anodiwa zvikuru wekatuni anoratidzwa nenzira inopikisa tsika yakatungamirira nzira yeMcLaren naWestwood.
Chirikadzi yaMcLaren, Young Kim, akashanda nesimba mumakore apfuura kuchengetedza nhaka yake uye nhaka yake. "Ndakaenda kuMetropolitan Museum muna 2013 kunoongorora kuunganidzwa kwavo," akadaro Ms. King. "Ndakashamisika kuona kuti mazhinji acho aive emanyepo. Mbatya dzekutanga dzaive diki. Malcolm akaita kuti dzikwane iye naVivienne. Mazhinji maprepunks eMet nhasi aive mahombe embatya."
Pane zvimwe zviratidzo. ”Vane bhurugwa rematweed neredehwe, izvo zvisingawanzo uye ndezvechokwadi, "Mai King vakadaro." Vanogona kunge vane peya yechipiri, iri yemanyepo. Musono uri pamusoro pebhandi remuchiuno, kwete mukati, sezvazvingave pahembe yakagadzirwa zvakanaka. Uye D-ring itsva.
Basa riri muchirongwa cheMet's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" rakakwevera pfungwa mushure mekunge Mai King naVaGorman vataura pachena pamusoro pezvinonzi manyepo uye kusaenderana kwakawanda kweshoo.
Asi pane mibvunzo pamusoro pebasa rakanga rapinda mumiziyamu makore masere apfuura. Mienzaniso inosanganisira sutu yehusungwa yaionekwa zvakanyanya mushow ye "Anglomania" ya2006, yainzi yakaitwa nemutengesi wezvigadzirwa zvekare zvemuLondon Simon Easton, nekambani yekurojesa yeWestwood neMcLaren yePunk Pistol Collection, iyo yakapa vanyori nevagadziri vemafirimu, Mr. Bowey, akatanga iyo museum online. Pane imwe nguva, miziyamu yakamira kunyora masutu sechikamu chekuunganidzwa kwayo.
"Muna 2015, zvidimbu zviviri zveMcLaren-Westwood muunganidzwa wedu zvakatsunga kuve zvemanyepo," akadaro Andrew Bolton, mutarisiri mukuru weMetropolitan Costume Institute.
VaGorman vakatumira VaBolton maemail akati wandei umo vakati mamwe mabasa ari munhevedzano ane matambudziko, asi VaGorman vakati VaBolton havachamupindura.Mutauriri weCostume Institute akati zvidimbu izvi zvakaongororwa nenyanzvi kanopfuura kamwe.
Easton, uyo asingadi kutaura nezvechinyorwa ichi, akataura neemail kuti Mr Bowie aimumiririra, asi zita rake haridzimikike munhema dzepunk legend. Mumakore apfuura, saiti yake yePunkPistol.com, iyo yakachengetwa muna 2008, inoonekwa nevakawanda senzvimbo yakavimbika yekuchengetera zvinyorwa zvepakutanga McLaren uye Westwood dhizaini.
Zvisinei, VaBowie vakati pasinei nokuedza kwavakaita kuti vaone kuti kuunganidzwa kwacho kuripo, “maitirwo embatya akaitwa zvisina tsarukano pakutanga, akaitwa uye azoitwazve aikanganisa.” Nhasi, kunyange nemaokisheni emabhuku emabhuku, marisiti uye mune zvimwe zviitiko kubva kuWestwood certification, zvipfeko izvi zvichiri kupokana.”
Musi wa9 Gunyana 2008, VaMcLaren vakatanga kuziviswa nezvehukuru hwehutsotsi hwakanga hwavakomberedza ivo naMai Westwood kuburikidza netsamba yetsamba yetsamba yainge yatumirwa naVaGorman pachinyorwa ichi ikatsinhirwa naAmai Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Zvichitevera mishumo, mapurisa akapinda mudzimba muCroydon neEastbourne, kwaakawana zvinyorwa zveagitator," email yakadaro.
Grant Champkins-Howard, iye zvino ari DJ ari pasi pezita rekuti Grant Dale, naLee Parker, plumber, vakatongwa kuKingston Crown Court muna Chikumi 2010, Mutongi Susan Matthews akadaro. “Vanyepa vechinyakare”.Zvinhu zvavo zvakapambwa muna 2008 neMetropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad ndokutora nhumbi dzinonzi manyepo dzeMcLaren neWestwood nezvimwe zvakadaro, pamwe chete nemaprints eBanksy zana nemakumi maviri.
Vaviri ava vakazowanikwa vaine mhosva yekunyepera basa raBanksy.Mr. McLaren, musiki wega wehembe dzekutanga dzeBonde neSeditionaries achida kupupura, akakumbirwa kuti aongorore zvinhu zvakabatwa uye anonongedza zviratidzo zvekuti zvipfeko zvaive zvemanyepo: saizi isiriyo yemabhii ekunyora, machira asingaenderane, kushandiswa kweYKK pane Mheni dzakatemwa zipi, zvisizvo magirafu juxtaposition uye akadhayiwa ekare chena tee.
"Akatsamwa," Ms King vakadaro. "Ainzwa zvakasimba nezvekudzivirira nekudzivirira basa rake. Mushure mekunge kudyidzana pakati paVaMcLaren naAmai Westwood kwaparara muna 1984, pakava nekusawirirana kwenguva refu pakati pevaviri ava.
VaHoward naVaParker vakapihwa mitongo yekumbomiswa pabasa panyaya yaVaBanks, asi nyaya yembatya dzemanyepo yakaraswa pakashaya VaMcLaren muna 2010 nekuti vaive mufakazi mukuru pamuchuchisi uyu.
Zvakadaro, zvinozoitika kuti mhuri yaMai Westwood inogona kunge yakagadzira nekusaziva kana kukuchidzira indasitiri yenhema yepunk.” Ndakaita zvinyorwa zvishoma zvemagadzirirwo ekutanga kuti ndiwane mari yekuparura Agent Provocateur,” akadaro Joe Corré, mwanakomana waVaMcLaren naMai Westwood, avo vakavhura zvipfeko zvavo zvemukati mubhizinesi ra1994.
"Takagadzirazve T-shirt yebhonzo rehuku neT-shirt ye'Venus'," VaCorré vakadaro. "Idzo dzakanyorwa sechinyorwa chechidimbu, dzakagadzirwa munhamba shoma yezvidimbu 100, ndokuzotengeswa kumusika wekuJapan." Pamberi peaya akatsanangurwa uye anodhura replicas, kudhirowa kwemabasa kwakaganhurirwa kune ari pachena silkscreens paholese T-shirts Kudhinda, kumhanya kwekugadzira kunokurumidza, uye mutengo wakachipa.
VaCorré vakati Vivienne Westwood akapa marezinesi ekudhirowa. McLaren akatsamwa.Mutsamba yakanyorwa musi wa14 Gumiguru 2008 kuboka raisanganisira mutori wenhau Steven Daly, Mr McLaren vakanyora kuti: “Ndiani akavabvumira kuita izvi?
VaCorré, avo vachangobva kuva mutungamiriri weVivienne Foundation, “vanoshandisa kodzero yebasa ravo nenzira yetsitsi kuti vawane mari yezvikonzero zvakasiyana-siyana.” Akataura kuti achaongorora nzira "yekupedza" nhema. Mai King vanoenderera mberi kurwira nhaka yaMcLaren uye vanotenda kuti vari kuramba vachidzimwa kubva munhoroondo yavo.
Bhizinesi rePunk pistol raVaEaston naVaBowey riri kuenderera mberi nekutengesa basa raMai Westwood naVaMcLaren kuburikidza nechitoro cheEtsy SeditionariesInTheUK, mazhinji acho ane tsamba yekupihwa chitupa kubva kuVivienne Westwood Company, yakasainwa, yakagadzirwa uye yakachengetwa naMurray Blewett.Izvi zvaisanganisira machira ane mitsetse ane machira ane mitsetse, Karl mune machira ane mitsetse neParl. Levi's-inspired cotton-rubber jackets.
Indaneti haina kuomesesa sedzimba zhinji dzeokisheni, uye havangataure nezvechinyorwa ichi, asi vakati vanongomiririra mabasa ane bulletproof provenance, kureva mapikicha emuridzi akapfeka mbatya kuma1970.
“Zvakakosha kunzwisisa kuti vanyajambwa vakawanda vokunyepedzera vanoda kubirwa,” vakadaro VaGorman.” Ivo vanoda zvomenemene kudavira kuti rutivi rwenhau yapakuvamba.