Nhau uye Press

Mwaka uno, indasitiri yefashoni yeTurkey yakatarisana nematambudziko akawanda, kubva padambudziko reCovid-19 uye kunetsana kwezvematongerwo enyika munyika dzakavakidzana, kusvika kune kuenderera mberi kwekukanganisa kwekutengesa, kutonhora kusingaite kumisa kugadzirwa uye dambudziko rehupfumi hwenyika, sezvinoonekwa muTurkey dambudziko rezvemari maererano neUK's Financial Times. The Times yakashuma kuti inflation yakakwira makore makumi maviri ne54% muna Kurume gore rino.
Zvisinei nezvipingaidzo izvi, zvakavambwa uye tarenda rekugadzira reTurkey rakaratidza kushingirira uye tariro paIstanbul Fashion Week mwaka uno, nekukurumidza kutora musanganiswa wezviitiko uye nzira dzekuratidzira dzekuwedzera uye kuratidza kuvepo kwavo kwepasirese mwaka uno.
Kuitwa kwemuviri munzvimbo dzenhoroondo dzakadai seOttoman palace uye chechi yeCrimea yemakore zana nemakumi matanhatu inodzokera kuhurongwa, yakapindirana neinodyidzana mipiro yedhijitari, pamwe nekuratidzwa kuchangobva kuvhurwa, hurukuro dzepaneru uye pop-ups paBosphorus Puerto Galata.
Vanoronga chiitiko - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association kana İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) neIstanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - vakabatana neIstanbul Soho House kuti vape vagari veko ruzivo rwepamoyo rwekuongorora uye kushanya kuburikidza nenhengo dzeindasitiri yenhepfenyuro.
MuIstanbul, pakanga paine pfungwa inonzwisisika yesimba idzva mukuita uye kuongororwa kwezviitwa zvemuviri sezvo vatori vechikamu vakabatana munharaunda yavo mumunhu zvakare mumamiriro ekunze ekunze.Kunyange zvazvo vamwe vachiri kuzeza, kunzwa kunodziya kwakakunda.
"[Isu] tinosuwa kuva pamwe chete," akadaro mugadziri wezvipfeko zvechirume Niyazi Erdoğan." Simba rakawanda uye munhu wese anoda kuve pashoo.
Pazasi, BoF inosangana nevagadziri gumi vari kusimukira uye vakagadzira pazviitiko zvavo zveVhiki yeFashoni uye zviitiko kuti vaone kuti mishandirapamwe yavo uye marongero emhando akashanduka sei muIstanbul mwaka uno.
Şansım Adalı akadzidza muBrussels asati atanga Sudi Etuz. Mugadziri, uyo anokunda nzira yedhijitari-yekutanga, ari kutarisa zvakanyanya pabhizinesi rake redhijitari nhasi uye kudzikisira bhizinesi rake remachira.Anoshandisa chaiwo mamodhi, madhijitari uye mainjiniya enjere, pamwe nekuunganidzwa kweNFT capsule uye zvipfeko zvishoma zvemuviri.
Şansım Adalı anotambira kuratidzwa kwake kuCrimea Memorial Church pedyo neGalata muIstanbul, uko madhizaini ake edhijitari anoteedzerwa pamaavatata edhijitari uye anoratidzwa pachiratidziro chakareba-mamita 8. Mushure mekufirwa nababa vake kuCovid-19, akatsanangura kuti "hazvinzwi zvakanaka" kuve nevanhu vazhinji pashow yedhijitari, akashandisa shoo yedhijitari pamwe chete.
"Chiitiko chakasiyana kwazvo, kuve nekuratidzira kwedhijitari panzvimbo yekare yekuvaka," akaudza BoF. "Ndinoda mutsauko. Munhu wese anoziva nezvechechi iyi, asi hapana anopinda. Chizvarwa chitsva hachitomboziva kuti nzvimbo idzi dziriko. Saka, ndinongoda kuona chizvarwa chechidiki mukati uye uyeuke kuti tine zvivakwa izvi zvakanaka."
Chiratidziro chedhijitari chinoperekedza kuita kweopera, uye muimbi anopfeka imwe yezvipfeko zvishoma zvemuviri zvinogadzirwa naAdal nhasi - asi zvakanyanya, Sudi Etuz anotarisira kuchengetedza kutarisisa kwedhijitari.
"Zvirongwa zvangu zveramangwana ndezvekuchengetedza rutivi rwemachira emhando yangu diki nekuti handifunge kuti nyika inoda imwe mhando yekugadzirwa kwevakawanda. Ini ndinotarisisa mapurojekiti edhijitari. Ndine timu yeinjiniya dzemakomputa, madhijitari maartist uye Chikwata chevaimbi vembatya. Chikwata changu chekugadzira ndiGen Z, uye ndinoedza kuvanzwisisa, kuvatarisa, kuvateerera."
Gökay Gündoğdu akatamira kuNew York kunodzidza manejimendi emhando asati ajoinha kuDomus Academy kuMilan muna 2007. Gündoğdu akashanda kuItaly asati atanga zita rake rechikadzi rekuti TAGG muna 2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu.
TAGG inopa muunganidzwa wemwaka uno nenzira yedhijitari yakawedzera museum kuratidzwa: "Tinoshandisa maQR macode uye augmented real kuona mafirimu epamhepo achibuda mumadziro akarembera - mavhidhiyo emifananidzo, senge fashoni show," Gündoğdu akaudza BoF.
"Ini handisi munhu wedhijitari zvachose," akadaro, asi panguva yedenda, "zvese zvatinoita ndezvedhijitari. Isu tinoita kuti webhusaiti yedu iwanikwe uye nyore kunzwisisa. Tiri mu [wholesale management platform] Joor yakaratidza kuunganidzwa muna 2019 uye akawana vatengi vatsva uye vatsva muUS, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait."
Pasinei nekubudirira kwake, kutora TAGG kumaakaundi epasi rose mwaka uno kwakaratidza kunetsa.
Dambudziko rehupfumi rakakanganisawo kuunganidza kwake mwaka uno: "Lira yeTurkey iri kurasika, saka zvinhu zvese zvinodhura. Kutenga machira kubva kunze kwakabatikana. Hurumende inoti haufanirwe kusundidzira makwikwi pakati pevanogadzira machira ekunze nemusika wepasi. Unofanira Kubhadhara mutero wakawedzerwa kune kunze kwenyika." Nekuda kweizvozvo, vagadziri vakasanganisa machira emuno neaya aitengwa kubva kuItaly neFrance.
Creative Director Yakup Bicer akatanga brand yake Y Plus, brand unisex, muna 2019 mushure memakore makumi matatu muTurkey dhizaini indasitiri.Y Plus yakatanga kuLondon Fashion Week muna Kukadzi 2020.
Muunganidzwa wedhijitari weYakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 collection inofemerwa ne “asingazivikanwe keyboard heroes nevadziviriri vavo crypto-anarchist ideology” uye inosvitsa shoko rekuchengetedza rusununguko rwezvematongerwo enyika pamasocial media platforms.
"Ndinoda kuenderera mberi [ndichiratidza] kwechinguva," akaudza BoF. "Sezvatakaita kare, kuunza vatengi pamwe chete mukati mevhiki yefashoni inotora nguva yakawanda uye inoremedza mune zvemari. Iye zvino tinogona kusvika kumativi ose enyika panguva imwe chete nekubata bhatani rine mharidzo yedijiti."
Kupfuura tekinoroji, Bicer iri kuwedzera kugadzirwa kwenzvimbo kuti ikunde kuvhiringika kwekutenga zvinhu - uye mukuita izvi, inotarisira kuendesa maitiro akasimba.
Ece naAyse Ege vakatanga rudzi rwavo rweDice Kayek muna 1992. Yakambogadzirwa muParis, mhando iyi yakabatana neFédération Française de la Couture muna 1994 uye yakapihwa Jameel Prize III, mubairo wepasi rose wehunyanzvi hwemazuva ano uye dhizaini yakafemerwa netsika dzechiIslam, muna 2013 yakadzoreredza vatengesi vepasi rese muIstanbul munguva pfupi yapfuura.
Hanzvadzi dzaDice Kayek Ece naAyse Ege vakaratidza kuunganidzwa kwavo muvhidhiyo yefashoni mwaka uno - chimiro chedhijitari chavanoziva, vanga vachigadzira mafirimu efashoni kubvira 2013.Ivhure uye udzokere kwairi.Iine kukosha kwakanyanya.Mumakore gumi kana gumi nemaviri, unogona kuiona zvakare.Tinoda zvakasiyana-siyana, "Ece akaudza BoF.
Nhasi, Dice Kayek inotengesa kune dzimwe nyika muEurope, US, Middle East neChina.Kuburikidza nechitoro chavo muParis, vakasiyanisa ruzivo rwevatengi muchitoro kuburikidza nekushandisa tsika dzeTurkey senzira yezvokutengesa zvekutengesa.
Hanzvadzi idzi dzakambotanga bhizinesi radzo kubva kuParis dzisati dzatamira kuIstanbul, uko situdiyo yavo inonamirwa neshoo yeBeaumonti. Mukuunza kugadzirwa mumba, masisita aitarisirawo kuti hunyanzvi hweTurkey hunotsigirwa uye hunochengetwa mukuunganidzwa kwayo.
Niyazi Erdoğan ndiye mugadziri wekutanga weIstanbul Fashion Week 2009 uye Mutevedzeri weMutungamiriri weTurkey Fashion Designers Association, uye mudzidzisi paIstanbul Fashion Academy. Pamusoro pemutsara wehembe dzechirume, akatanga iyo accessories brand NIYO muna 2014 uye akahwina Mubairo weEuropean Museum mugore rimwe chete.
Niyazi Erdoğan akapa muunganidzwa wake wehembe dzechirume mwaka uno: "Tese tiri kugadzira digitaalinen ikozvino - tinoratidza muMetaverse kana NFTs. Isu tinotengesa muunganidzwa zvese nedhijitari uye nemuviri, tichienda kumativi ese. Tinoda kugadzirira ramangwana ravose, "akaudza BoF.
Zvisinei, mumwaka unotevera, akati, "Ndinofunga kuti tinofanira kuva nechiratidziro chemuviri. Fashoni ndeyevanhu uye manzwiro, uye vanhu vanofarira kuva pamwe chete. Kune vanhu vanogadzira, tinoda izvi."
Munguva yedenda, mhando yakagadzira chitoro chepamhepo uye yakachinja kuunganidza kwavo kuita "kutengesa zviri nani" pamhepo, vachifunga nezve shanduko yezvinodiwa nevatengi panguva yedenda. Akaonawo shanduko mune iyi yevatengi: "Ndinoona zvipfeko zvangu zvechirume zvichitengeswa kuvakadzi zvakare, saka hapana miganhu."
Sezvo ari mudzidzisi paIMA, Erdogan anogara achidzidza kubva kuchizvarwa chinotevera. "Kune chizvarwa chakaita seAlfa, kana uri mufashoni, unofanira kuvanzwisisa. Chiratidzo changu ndechokunzwisisa zvavanoda, kuva nehurongwa pamusoro pekuchengetedza, digital, ruvara, kucheka uye chimiro - tinofanira kushanda navo Vanopindirana."
Mumwe akapedza kudzidza kuIstituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker akashandira makambani akadai saFrankie Morello, Colmar naFurla asati atanga zita rake rezita muna 2012, achigadzira akagadzirira-kupfeka, bridal uye couture collections.Akaratidzira kuLondon, Paris neMilan Fashion Weeks.
Kupemberera kusvitsa makore gumi mwaka uno, Nihan Peker akaita fashoni kuÇırağan Palace, yaimbova muzinda weOttoman akatendeuka kubva kuhotera yakatarisana neBosphorus. "
"Zvakanditorera nguva kuti ndizviratidze ndiri munyika yangu," akawedzera Peker, uyo akagara pamberi pemwaka uno nevakakurumbira veTurkey vakapfeka madhizaini kubva muunganidzwa wake wekare. Munyika yose, "zvinhu zviri kufamba nenzira kwayo," akadaro, aine simba rinokura muMiddle East.
"Vese vagadziri veTurkey vanofanirwa kufunga nezvezvinetso zvedunhu redu nguva nenguva. Kutaura chokwadi, senyika, isu tinofanirwa kutarisana nenhau hombe dzemagariro nezvematongerwo enyika, saka tese tinorasikirwa nekusimba zvakare. Chandinotarisisa chiri kuburikidza nekuunganidzwa kwangu kweThe ready-to-wear and haute couture collections inogadzira rudzi rutsva rwekupfeka, runako runogadzirwa."
Mushure mekupedza kudzidza kubva kuIstanbul Fashion Institute muna 2014, Akyuz akadzidzira dhigirii remasters muMenswear Design paMarangoni Academy kuMilan. Akashandira Ermenegildo Zegna neCostume National asati adzokera kuTurkey muna 2016 uye akatanga zita rake rehembe dzechirume muna 2018.
Muchiratidziro chechitanhatu chemwaka, Selen Akyuz akaita firimu rakaratidzwa paSoho House muIstanbul nepamhepo: “Ibhaisikopo, saka harisi fashoni chaiyo, asi ndinofunga richiri kushanda. Zvakare zvinonzwisa tsitsi.
Sebhizinesi diki retsika, Akyuz iri kuvaka zvishoma nezvishoma nzvimbo yevatengi vepasi rese, ine vatengi vava kuUS, Romania neAlbania. tsika.
Iyi nzira yekudzikisira inoenda kune vaanogadzira navo.”Pachinzvimbo chekushanda nevagadziri vakuru, ndanga ndichitsvaga vasoneri vadiki vemuno kuti vatsigire mhando yangu, asi zvanga zvakaoma kuwana vanokwanisa.Nyanzvi dzinoshandisa hunyanzvi hwechinyakare dzinonetsa kuwana - kutora kwevashandi vechizvarwa chinotevera kune mashoma.
Gökhan Yavaş akapedza kudzidza kubva kuDEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design muna 2012 uye akadzidza kuIMA asati atanga hembe dzake dzemumugwagwa muna 2017.
Mwaka uno, Gökhan Yavaş anopa vhidhiyo pfupi uye fashoni show - yake yekutanga mumakore matatu. "Tinosuwa chaizvo - inguva yekutaura nevanhu zvakare. Tinoda kuramba tichiita mitambo yemafashoni emuviri nekuti pa Instagram, zviri kuramba zvichioma kutaurirana. Zvakanyanya nezvekusangana uye kunzwa kubva kuvanhu vakatarisana kumeso," mugadziri anoti.
Chiratidziro chiri kuvandudza pfungwa yekugadzira.
Tarisiro yekusagadzikana yaratidza kunetsa kumhando, dambudziko rekutanga riri kutsvaga mamwe machira emhunga kubva kune vatengesi. Dambudziko rechipiri ravakatarisana naro nderekuvhura chitoro muTurkey kuti vatengese zvipfeko zvevarume, nepo vatengi veko vanotarisa kuTurkey vakadzi vanogadzira division.Zvichakadaro, nepo mhando ichitengesa kuburikidza newebhusaiti yavo uye zvitoro zvepasi rese muCanada neLondon, yavo inotevera inotarisa Asia - kunyanya Korea neChina.
Wearable art brand Bashaques yakavambwa muna 2014 naBaşak Cankeş.Chiratidzo ichi chinotengesa zvipfeko zvekushambira uye kimonos zvine dingindira rayo nehunyanzvi.
"Kazhinji, ini ndinoita kudyidzana kwehunyanzvi nemifananidzo inopfekwa," director director Başak Cankeş akaudza BoF nguva pfupi yadarika mushure mekuburitsa muunganidzwa wake wemaminitsi makumi mana nemashanu paSoho House muIstanbul.
Chiratidziro chinotaurira nyaya yekufamba kwake kuPeru neColombia kuti ashande nevashandi vavo, vachitora maitiro eAnatolian nezviratidzo, uye "kuvabvunza kuti vainzwa sei pamusoro peAnatolian [zvinyorwa]".Kutora pane yakagovaniswa nhaka yetsika ye shamanism, nhevedzano inoongorora maitiro akafanana emhizha pakati peAsian Turkish Anatolia nenyika dzeSouth America.
“Inenge 60 muzana yechikamu chimwe chete, zvose zvakarukwa nemaoko nevakadzi muPeru neAnatolia,” anodaro.
Cankeş anotengesa kune vaunganidzi vemifananidzo muTurkey uye anoda kuti vamwe vatengi vaunganidze mamuseum kubva kubasa rake, achitsanangura kuti "haafarire kuve brand yepasirese nekuti zvakaoma kuve brand yepasirese uye inoenderera mberi. Ini handitomboda kuita chero muunganidzwa wezvidimbu gumi kunze kwekutuhwina kana kimonos. Ipfungwa yakazara, inochinja-chinja art muunganidzwa watinozvionera pachedu semugadziri wefashoni weNFT. mugadziri.”
Iyo Karma Collective inomiririra tarenda riri kusimukira reIstanbul Moda Academy, yakavambwa muna 2007, ichipa madhigirii muFashoni Dhizaini, Tekinoroji uye Kuvandudza Chigadzirwa, Kutungamira Kwemafashoni, uye Kukurukurirana Kwemafashoni neMedia.
"Dambudziko guru randinaro nderemamiriro ekunze, nokuti kwave kuine chando kwemavhiki maviri apfuura, saka tinewo matambudziko akawanda neketani yekugovera uye machira ekutsvaga," Hakalmaz akaudza BoF.Akagadzira kuunganidza mumavhiki maviri chete nokuda kwezita rake Alter Ego, yakaratidzwa sechikamu cheKarma pamwe chete, uye yakagadzirirwawo imba yefashoni Nocturne.
Hakalmaz haasisiri kushandisa zvigadziriso zvetekinoroji kutsigira chirongwa chake chekugadzira, achiti: "Ini handifarire kushandisa tekinoroji uye ndinogara kure nazvo nepandinogona napo nekuti ndoda kuita zvemaoko kuti ndirambe ndichitaura nezvekare."