Nhau uye Press

Zvisinei nemamiriro ekunze, hupenyu hune magariro hwaswedera pedyo nemusika wemafashoni, uye sarudzo dzekare dzave kudiwa.Musi wa27 Kukadzi, United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change yakaburitsa chirevo chayo, "Kushanduka Kwemamiriro ekunze 2022: Kukanganisa, Kuchinja uye Kusagadzikana," izvo zvinotaridza hurongwa hwemamiriro ekunze. all.planet.
Mazhinji mabhureki, vagadziri, vagadziri uye zviwanikwa zvekutengesa mukati meindasitiri yemafashoni vari kuchenesa zvishoma nezvishoma maitiro avo.Vamwe vakatsigira maitiro akasimba kubva pakatanga kambani, nepo vamwe vakatarisa nzira inokoshesa kufambira mberi pamusoro pekukwana, sezvavanodzivirira greenwashing nekutora chaiyo girinhi maitiro kuburikidza nekuedza chaiko.
Zvinocherechedzwawo kuti miitiro yakadzikama inodarika nyaya dzezvakatipoteredza, kusanganisira nyaya dzine chekuita nekuenzana kwevanhukadzi uye mitemo yenzvimbo yebasa inosimudzira nharaunda yakachengeteka.Sezvo indasitiri yemafashoni inotarisa kufambira mberi mukugadzirwa kwembatya dzakasimba, California Apparel News yakabvunza nyanzvi dzekuchengetedza uye avo vari kufambira mberi mumunda: Chii chave chiri kubudirira kukuru mukusimba kwefashoni mumakore mashanu apfuura?
Iye zvino kupfuura nakare kose, indasitiri yemafashoni inoda kutama kubva kune mutsara wemhando-kutora, kugadzira, kushandisa, kurasa-kuenda kune imwe denderedzwa.The man-made cellulosic fiber process ine yakasarudzika kugona kudzoreredza pre-mutengi uye post-mutengi donje tsvina muvirgin fiber.
Birla Cellulose yakagadzira tekinoroji yemukati-mumba yekudzoreredza marara edonje emutengi kuita viscose nyowani yakafanana nemafiber akajairwa uye yakatanga Liva Reviva ne20% yezvakagadzirwa semarara ekutanga kwevatengi.
Circularity ndiyo imwe yenzvimbo dzedu dzatinotarisa. Isu tiri chikamu chezvirongwa zvakawanda zvekonsortium zviri kushanda pazvigadziriso zvechizvarwa chinotevera, seLiva Reviva.Birla Cellulose iri kushanda nesimba kuti iwedzere chizvarwa chinotevera ma fiber kusvika ku100,000 tonnes panosvika 2024 uye kuwedzera zvakadzokororwa zvemukati zvekare uye mushure mevatengi tsvina.
Takaremekedzwa pa1st UN Global Compact India Network National Innovation uye Sustainable Supply Chain Awards yenyaya yedu yekudzidza pa "Liva Reviva uye Fully Traceable Circular Global Fashion Supply Chain".
Kwegore rechitatu rakatevedzana, Canopy's 2021 Hot Button Report yakaronga Birla Cellulose seNo.
Mumakore achangopfuura, indasitiri yefashoni yakatarisana nekurwisa kugadzirwa kwakanyanyisa. Chinangwa chikuru cheizvi ndechekudzivirira kuti zvinhu zvisina kutengeswa zvisapiswa kana kuenda kunorasirwa marara. Nekushandura nzira iyo fashoni inogadzirwa kuti ibudise zvinonyatsodiwa uye zvinotengeswa, vagadziri vanogona kuita mupiro wakakura uye unoshanda mukuchengetedza zviwanikwa. production.
Isu tinotenda kuti chinhu chikuru chakaitwa neindasitiri yemafashoni mumakore mashanu apfuura ndechekuti kusimudzira kwave dingindira rakakosha kune mabhureki nevatengesi.
Sustainability yakabuda senzira yemusika ine zvakanaka uye zvinoyereka zvehupfumi zvakabatana nemakambani anozvitora, achisimbisa mabhizinesi mamodheru zvichibva pazviri uye nekumhanyisa shanduko yekugovera.
Kubva kudenderedzwa dhizaini kusvika kune chitupa kuyera zvirevo uye maitiro; hunyanzvi hwetekinoroji masisitimu anoita kuti cheni yekugovera ive pachena, inoteedzera uye inowanikwa kune vatengi; kuburikidza nekusarudzwa kwezvinhu zvakagadzikana, zvakadai semicheka yedu kubva kune citrus juice by-products; uye kudzokorodza Kugadzira uye kupera-kwe-hupenyu manejimendi masisitimu, indasitiri yemafashoni iri kuwedzera kuzvipira kushandura zvishuwo zvakanaka zvekuchengetedzwa kwezvakatipoteredza kuita chokwadi.
Nekudaro, indasitiri yefashoni yepasirese inoramba yakaoma, yakakamukana uye isina kujeka, ine mamiriro ekushanda asina kuchengetedzeka mune dzimwe nzvimbo dzekugadzira pasirese, zvichikonzera kusvibiswa kwezvakatipoteredza uye kushandiswa kwevanhu.
Isu tinotenda kuti fashoni ine hutano uye yakagadzikana ichava chiyero cheramangwana nekutora mitemo yakajairwa, nezviito zvakabatana uye zvisungo kubva kumhando nevatengi.
Mumakore mashanu apfuura, indasitiri yemafashoni yakatarisana - kungave kuburikidza nekushambadzira kwemaindasitiri kana kudiwa kwevatengi - kwete chete kugona kugadzira ecosystem inokoshesa vanhu nepasi, asi kuvepo kwehurongwa nemhinduro kuunza shanduko muindasitiri inoshandura.
Hazvisi kuwedzeredza kutaura kuti kuti ifambire mberi, indasitiri yemafashoni inofanira kukoshesa kuenzana kwevakadzi uye kubvumira vakadzi kuti vamiririrwe zvakaenzana muchikamu cheukoshi.Nekuda kwangu, ndinoda kuona kutsigirwa kwakawanda kune vakadzi vemabhizinesi vari kukurumidza kushandura indasitiri yemafashoni kuita indasitiri yakaenzana, inosanganisirwa uye inovandudza nharaunda. seri kwekuchengetedza kwefashoni ecosystem.Utungamiri hwavo hunofanira kutsigirwa sezvavanogadzirisa nyaya dzakaoma dzenguva yedu.
Kubudirira kukuru mukugadzira fashoni ine hutongi hwejekerere yaive kupasiswa kweCalifornia Senate Bill 62, iyo Apparel Worker Protection Act. Bhiri rinotarisa chikonzero chembavha yemuhoro, iyo yatekeshera muhurongwa hwemafashoni, kubvisa chidimbu chiyero chehurongwa uye kugadzira mabhureki akabatana uye akawanda anosungirwa mihoro yakabiwa kubva kune vashandi vembatya.
Mutemo uyu muenzaniso wesangano rinotungamirwa nevashandi rinoshamisa, kuvaka mubatanidzwa wakafara uye wakadzika mubatanidzwa, uye kubatana kunoshamisa kwebhizinesi nevagari izvo zvakabudirira kuvhara gaka rakakura remitemo munzvimbo huru yekugadzirwa kwembatya muUnited States. Kubva muna Ndira 1, vagadziri vembatya vekuCalifornia vava kuwana madhora gumi nemana kupfuura muhoro wavo wekare wemadhora matatu kusvika kumadhora mashanu. sezvo ichiona kuti mabhureki nevatengesi vanosungirwa zviri pamutemo kuba mihoro.
Kupfuura kweCalifornia's Garment Worker Protection Act kune chikwereti chikuru kubasa reGarment Worker Center Executive Director Marissa Nuncio, mumwe wemagamba eindasitiri yemafashoni mukuunza mutemo unotungamirwa nevashandi kuti uve mutemo.
Kana zviwanikwa zvinodikanwa kugadzira zvekugadzira zvakaganhurirwa—uye pachitova nemimwe mikuru yezvigadzirwa zvakadaro zvinowanika—zvine mufungo here kuramba tichishandisa zviwanikwa zvishoma kuitira kukohwa zvimwe zvokushandisa zvisina kubikwa?
Nekuda kwezvichangobva kuitika mukugadzirwa kwedonje zvakare uye kurukwa, iyi fananidzo yakapusa mubvunzo uri pamutemo uyo makambani makuru emafashoni anofanirwa kunge achizvibvunza ivo vachiramba vachisarudza donje remhandara pane rakadzokororwa donje.
Kushandiswa kwedonje rakadzokororwa muzvipfeko, pamwe chete neyakavharwa-loop recycling system inosanganisa post-industrial donje ne post-consumer donje mumhepo yekurashira-neutral kugadzirwa cycle, seyachangobva kuunzwa ne Everywhere Apparel, yakakosha Imwe yemasisitimu mukusimba kwefashoni. hofori dzeindasitiri yedu, dzinoda kumwe kusundidzira mundima iyi inonakidza.
Kurimwa kwedonje kunoshandisa marita anodarika 21 trillion emvura gore rega rega, zvichitora chikamu che16% chekushandiswa kwemishonga yezvipembenene pasi rose uye 2.5% chete yeminda yezvirimwa.
Kudiwa kweumbozha hwekare uye kudiwa kweindasitiri kwemaitiro akasimba kune fashoni pakupedzisira kwasvika.
Sezvo musika wekutengesa weumbozha uchiramba uchikura, pane humbowo hwakasimba hwekuti hunhu hwechizvarwa chinotevera chevatengi huri kusimuka kubva mukusarudzika kuenda mukubatanidzwa. Aya maitiro akajeka akakurudzira kukura mukutenga nekutengesa zveumbozha, zvichigadzira izvo Marque Luxury inoona sechinjo huru muindasitiri yemafashoni. inokurudzira mhando dzemabhizinesi akatenderera, kusanganisira kutengeserana zvakare, uye yakakosha mukugonesa indasitiri kuti pakupedzisira ibatsire kuderedza kuburitswa kwepasi rose uye nekupfuura. Nekutsvaga uye nekupa zviuru zvezvakamboshandiswa zveumbozha, Marque Luxury nenzvimbo dzayo gumi nesere+ dzezvekutengesa kutenderera pasirese dzave simba riri shure kweichi hupfumi hwepasi rose, zvichigadzira kudiwa kwakawanda kwehupenyu hwemazambiringa uye kuwedzera hupenyu hwechimwe nechimwe chinhu.
Isu paMarque Luxury tinotenda kuti ruzivo rwemagariro evanhu pasi rose uye kuchema pamusoro peimwe nzira yakagadzikana yefashoni, mukati uye pachayo, ndeimwe yekubudirira kukuru kweindasitiri kusvika nhasi.
Mumakore mashanu adarika, kusimudzirwa kwefashoni kwave kutariswa neindasitiri. Mabhureki asingaite nhaurirano haana basa, inova budiriro huru. Kuedza kwakawanda kwakanangana nemacheni ekupa rwizi, semidziyo iri nani, kusaraswa kwemvura shoma, simba rinodzokororwa uye mitemo yakasimba yebasa. Sekuona kwangu, izvi zvakanaka kune Sustainability 1.0, uye isu tichiri kuita basa rakaoma. dambudziko guru rekurasirwa kwemarara.Kunyange zvazvo kutengesa nekushandisa zvakare zvikamu zvakakosha zvehupfumi hwedenderedzwa, haisi iyo nyaya yose.Tinofanira kugadzira, kuvaka zvivako zvevatengi vedu uye kuvabatanidza muhurongwa hwakakwana hwedenderedzwa.Kugadzirisa matambudziko ekuguma kwehupenyu kunotanga kubva pakutanga.Ngationei kana tichikwanisa kubudirira izvi mukati memakore mashanu anotevera.
Nepo vatengi nemhando dzemhando dziri kuramba dzichitsvaga micheka inoenderera mberi, hazvigoneke kuti shinda iripo ikwane izvi zvinodiwa. Nhasi, vazhinji vedu tinopfeka mbatya dzakagadzirwa nedonje (24.2%), miti (5.9%) uye petroleum (62%), zvese izvi zvine zvimhingamupinyi zvakakomba zvezvakatipoteredza. kuchinja magadzirirwo ezvipfeko, kutengeswa uye kushandiswa kusimuka kubva pane izvo zvinoraswa; kunatsiridza kudzokorora; shandisa zviwanikwa nemazvo uye chinja kune zvinogonekazve.
Iyo indasitiri inoona hutsva hwezvinhu sekutengesa kunze kwenyika uye yakagadzirira kuunganidza hukuru, hwakanangwa "moonshot" hutsva, sekutsvaga "super fibers" iyo yakakodzera kushandiswa mumasisitimu ekutenderera asi ine midziyo yakafanana kune zvigadzirwa zvemazuva ese uye isina zvakaipa zvekunze. HeiQ ndeMumwe muvambi akadaro akagadzira shinda ine hushamwari hwemamiriro ekunze eHeiQ AeoniQ, imwe nzira inoshanda kune polyester nenylon ine indasitiri-inochinja indasitiri. Kutora HeiQ AeoniQ kweindasitiri yemachira kuchaderedza kuvimba kwayo neoiri-based fiber, kubatsira kusvibisa nyika yedu, kumisa kuburitswa kwepurasitiki maoceilean indasitiri, uye kuderedza kushanduka kwemamiriro ekunze epurasitiki.
Kubudirira kukuru mumafashoni mumakore mashanu apfuura kwakatenderedza kubatana kugadzirisa matambudziko makuru ane chekuita nekusimudzira.Takaona kudikanwa kwekuputsa zvipingamupinyi pakati pevatengesi nevakwikwidzi kuti vavandudze kutenderera uye kutsanangura nzira yekuchinja kune zero zero.
Mumwe muenzaniso mutengesi ane mukurumbira wekumhanya-mhanya uyo anovimbisa kudzoreredza chero zvipfeko zvinowira muzvitoro zvavo, kunyangwe dziya dzevakwikwidzi.Kudiwa kwekubatana kwakawedzerwa, uko kwakakwidziridzwa nedenda, kwakasimbiswa muchikamu chekutanga, apo zvikamu zviviri muzvitatu zvevakuru vezvekutenga zvinhu vakati vaitarisa kuona kuti vatengesi vatadza kubhuroka. Sustainable Apparel Coalition neUnited Nations. Nhanho inotevera mukufambira mberi uku ichange iri yekuenderera mberi nekuita kuti chirongwa ichi chitaridzike sei, chichaitwa sei uye kuti mhedzisiro yacho ingave sei. Takaona izvi zvichiitika neEuropean Commission's Digital Product Passport chirongwa, uye ndine chokwadi chekuti uchaona nzira dzakanakisa dzekuenderera mberi dzichitanga kugoverwa kune mamwe maindasitiri uye kuyera izvo zvaunogona kuita uye kuyera izvo zvatingaite. matauriro atinoita ruzivo irworwo achaita kuti pave nemikana yakawanda yekuchengeta zvipfeko zvichitenderera kwenguva yakareba, kuderedza marara uye pakupedzisira kuve nechokwadi chekuti indasitiri yemafashoni inova Simba nekusingaperi.
Kudzokorodza kwembatya kuburikidza nekushandiswa patsva, kugadzirwa patsva uye kudzokororwa ndiwo maitiro makuru pari zvino. Izvi zvinobatsira kuti micheka isatenderere uye isabuda mukurasira marara. Zvakakosha kuti tizive huwandu hwezvishandiso zvinodiwa kugadzira mbatya, senge nguva inotora kurima donje, kukohwa nekurigadzira, uyezve kurukwa kuita jira rekuti vanhu vacheke nekusonesa. Izvozvi zviwanikwa zvakawanda.
Vatengi vanofanira kudzidziswa pamusoro pekukosha kwebasa ravo mukudzokorodza. Chiito chimwe chete chekuzvipira kushandisazve, kupfekazve kana kuvandudzwa kunogona kuita kuti zviwanikwa izvi zvirambe zviri mhenyu uye zvine simba guru pane zvakatipoteredza.Kuda kuti zvipfeko zvigadzirwe kubva kune zvakashandiswa patsva ndechimwe chinhu chinogona kuitwa nevatengi kubatsira kuti zviwanikwa zvedu zvirambe zviripo.Mabhurendi nevagadziri vanogonawo kubatsira kune mhinduro kuburikidza nekugadzira patsva machira. inogona kubatsira kuchengetedza indasitiri yembatya mukuenzanisa nezviwanikwa.Tinove chikamu chemhinduro yekugadziridza zviwanikwa pachinzvimbo chemigodhi.
Zvinokurudzira kuona mabhureki ese madiki, emuno, ane hunhu ari kusimukira achibatanidzwa mukugarisa. Ndinofunga zvakakoshawo kuziva manzwiro ekuti "zvishoma zviri nani pane pasina".
Nzvimbo huru yekuvandudza uye inodiwa ndeyekuenderera mberi kwekuzvidavirira kwefashoni yekukurumidza, haute couture uye akawanda ane mukurumbira mabhureki emafashoni. Kana mabhureki madiki ane zviwanikwa zvishoma achigona kuburitsa zvine hungwaru uye zvine hutsika, vanogona. Ndichiri kutarisira kuti mhando pamusoro pehuwandu ichakunda pakupedzisira.
Ndinotenda kuti kubudirira kukuru kutsanangura izvo isu seindasitiri tinoda kuderedza kuburitsa kabhoni yedu neinosvika 45% panosvika 2030 kuitira kuti titevedze Chibvumirano cheParis.Nechinangwa ichi chiri muruoko, mabhureki, vatengesi uye cheni yavo yese yekugovera vanogona kuseta kana kugadzirisa zvinangwa zvavo pazvinenge zvichidikanwa uye kutsanangura nzira dzadzo zvinoenderana. simba rinodzokororwa, gadzira zvigadzirwa kubva kune anodzokororwa kana kudzokororwa masosi, uye shuwa kuti zvipfeko zvakagadzirirwa kugara kwenguva yakareba - inokwanisika Multiple varidzi, wozodzokorodza pakupera kwehupenyu.
Maererano neEllen MacArthur Foundation, mapuratifomu manomwe ekutengesa uye ekurojesa asvika mabhiriyoni emadhora mumakore maviri apfuura.Mabhizimisi akadaro anogona kukura kubva kune ikozvino 3.5% kusvika ku23% yemusika wepasi rose wefashoni ne 2030, inomiririra mukana we $ 700 bhiriyoni.Kuchinja kwemafungiro aya - kubva pakugadzira tsvina kusvika pakugadzira mabhiziniti emabhizimisi edenderedzwa pamwero - inodiwa kuti tisangane nechisungo chedu.
Ini ndinofunga zvakabudirira zvikuru ndezvichangobva kupfuura zvemitemo yezvekutengesa muUS neEU, uye iyo iri kuuya Fashion Act muNew York Brands yauya kure maererano nemabatiro avanoita vanhu nepasi mumakore mashanu apfuura, asi mitemo mitsva iyi ichasundira mberi izvo kuedza kumberi nekukurumidza. tekinoroji yakamira kwenguva refu.Ndinotarisira kuvandudzwa kwatingaite kutanga gore rino.
Indasitiri yembatya yakaita nhanho huru mukuvandudza kukanganisa kwayo kwezvakatipoteredza mumakore mashoma apfuura, asi pachine basa rakawanda rinofanira kuitwa.Vatengi vembatya vanonyanya kuziva vachagutsikana.
KuNILIT, takazvipira kushanda nevatinoshanda navo pasi rose kuti tikurumidze kusimudzira zvirongwa zvedu uye kutarisa kune zvigadzirwa uye maitiro anovandudza nhanho yehupenyu hwehupenyu hwekupfeka uye maprofiles ekuchengetedza. Isu tinoenderera mberi nekukasira kuwedzera yedu yakakura portfolio yeSENSIL inogadziriswa premium nylon zvigadzirwa zvevatengi uye takazvipira kubatsira vedu kukosha cheni vatinodyidzana navo kutaurirana nevatengi vanogona kudzikamisa sarudzo yekabhoni.
Gore rapfuura, takatangisa zvigadzirwa zvitsva zveSENSIL kuburikidza neSENSIL BioCare inogadzirisa matambudziko ezvakatipoteredza eindasitiri yezvipfeko, sekushandisa mvura, zvakadzokororwa zvemukati uye marara emarara, izvo zvinomhanyisa kuparara kwemamicroplastics kana apera mugungwa.
Pamusoro pekuvandudzwa kwechigadzirwa, NILIT yakazvipira kuita zvine chekuita nekugadzira maitiro ekudzikisa maitiro edu semugadziri, kusanganisira kuderedza kusvibiswa kwegasi rinopisa, kugadzira ne zero tsvina, uye kuchengetedza zviwanikwa zvemvura mumiganho yakadzika.Our Corporate Sustainability Report nekudyara kwedu muzvinzvimbo zvitsva zvehutungamiriri zvirevo zveveruzhinji zvekuzvipira kweNILIT kutungamira indasitiri yezvipfeko zvepasi rose uye inosimudzira indasitiri yezvipfeko.
Kubudirira kukuru mukusimudzira fashoni kwakaitika munzvimbo mbiri: kuwedzera sarudzo dzakasimba dzemamwe mafiber uye kudiwa kwekujeka kwedata uye kuteedzera mucheni yekugovera fashoni.
Kuputika kwemamwe mafibers akadai seTencel, Lyocell, RPETE, mabhodhoro epurasitiki akadzokororwa, hove dzakadzokororwa, hemp, pineapple, cactus, nezvimwewo zvinofadza zvikuru sezvo izvi zvingasarudzwa zvinogona kukurumidzira kusikwa kwemusika unoshanda wedenderedzwa - weIpa kukosha kamwe - zvinhu zvinoshandiswa uye kudzivirira kusvibiswa pamwe chete nekutengesa keni.
Zvinodiwa nevatengi uye zvinotarisirwa kuti zvive pachena pamusoro pekuti chigamba chembatya chinogadzirwa sei zvinoreva kuti mabhureki anofanirwa kunge ari nani pakupa zvinyorwa uye ruzivo rwechokwadi rune zvarunoreva kuvanhu nepasi.Zvino, izvi hazvisisiri mutoro, asi zvinopa chaiyo mutengo-inoshanda, sezvo vatengi vachange vachida kubhadhara kune kunaka kwezvinhu uye maitiro.
Nhanho dzinotevera dzinosanganisira hutsva muzvigadzirwa uye michina yekugadzira, iyo algae yekudhaya jeans, 3D kudhinda kubvisa tsvina, uye nezvimwe, uye inochengetedza data ungwaru, apo data iri nani inopa mabhurendi nekubudirira kukuru, sarudzo yakagadzikana, pamwe nekunzwisisa kukuru uye kubatana nechishuwo chevatengi.
Patakaita Functional Fabrics Show muNew York muzhizha ra2018, kugadzikana kwanga kuchangotanga kutariswa kune varatidziri, pane zvikumbiro zvekuendesa masampuli kuforamu yedu, iyo yakaratidza zviri kuitika muzvikamu zvakawanda zvemachira. Zvino ichi chinhu chinodiwa.Kuedza kwakaitwa nevagadziri vemachira kuti machira avo arambe akamira zvakanaka.Mukati mechiitiko chedu chaMbudzi 2021 muPortland, Oregon, zvinotumirwa zvichatariswa chete kana chikamu che50% chezvigadzirwa chichibva munzvimbo dzinoshandiswazve.Tinofara kuona kuti masampuli mangani aripo kuti titariswe.
Kubatanidza metric kuyera kusimba kwepurojekiti ndiyo tarisiro yedu yeramangwana, uye tarisiro kune indasitiri zvakare.Kuyera carbon footprint yemicheka chinhu chinodiwa munguva pfupi iri kutevera kuyera uye kutaurirana nevatengi.Kana kabhoni yekabhoni yemucheka yakatemwa, carbon footprint yenguo yakapedzwa inogona kuverengwa.
Kuyera izvi kuchabatanidza zvikamu zvose zvemucheka, kubva kune zvinyorwa, simba rekugadzira nzira, kushandiswa kwemvura uye kunyange mamiriro ekushanda.Zvinoshamisa kuti mhizha inopindirana sei isinganzwisisiki mairi!
Chinhu chimwe chatadzidziswa nedenda ndechekuti kudyidzana kwepamusoro-soro kunogona kuitika kure kure. Zvinoitika kuti zvibatiso zvekugara kure nechirwere mabhiriyoni emadhora mukuchengetedza kwekufamba uye kukuvadza kwakawanda kwekabhoni.