Wararka iyo Saxaafadda

Sid Vicious waligiis ma rumaysna inta ay leeyihin dharkiisii ​​hore iyo in kuwa been abuurka ahi ay aad ugu dadaali doonaan sidii ay u been abuuran lahaayeen.
Waqti aan fogeyn, taariikhyahanka dhaqanka pop-ka ee fadhigiisu yahay London Paul Gorman, qoraaga The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: Biography, iyo xaraashka Fashion Rock Paul Gorman ayaa helay gabal uu leeyahay Marr. Shaadhka Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries calaamad, qiyaastii 1977, si loo qiimeeyo.
Waxay ka samaysan tahay muslin waxayna soo bandhigtay sawir isla markiiba lagu aqoonsan karo farshaxaniistaha Jamie Reid ee gacmaha bistooladaha galmada ee "Anarchy in UK" kali.
Haddii ay run tahay, waxa ay ka heli doontaa qiimo qurux badan oo xaraash ah. Xarashka Bonhams ee May, 1977 Mr. McLaren iyo Ms. Westwood shaadhka baarashuudka ayaa lagu iibiyay $6,660, oo ay weheliso funaanad madow iyo casaan ah oo naadir ah oo lagu dhejiyay madax iyo lafo-goysyo, mustaqbalka "Bistoolad $8" No8
Si kastaba ha ahaatee, Mr Gorman kuma qancin shaadhka uu qiimaynayay inuu yahay waxa mulkiiluhu ku andacoodo.
"Muslimku meelaha qaar waa duugoobay," ayuu yidhi Mr. Gorman." Laakiin meelo kale, dharku aad buu u cusub yahay, khadku ma ahayn tayadii 1970-yadii mana ku faafin dharka." Mar wax laga weydiiyay waxa ku saabsan, iibiyuhu waxa uu kala baxay gabalkii guriga xaraashka oo uu sheegay in si gaar ah loo iibiyay. "Madxafka waxaa ku jira shaadh la mid ah oo keliya," Gorman ayaa yidhi, "waxana aan u malaynayaa in sidoo kale su'aal la iska weydiinayo."
Ku soo dhawoow aduunka cajiibka ah iyo faa'iidada badan ee punk been abuurka ah
"Waxaan helaa dhowr emails bil kasta oo aan ku weydiiyo in ay wax dhab yihiin," ayuu yiri Steven Philip, archivist, aruuriyaha iyo lataliye. "Kama qaybgeli doono.
Muddo nus qarni ah, Mr McLaren iyo Ms Westwood waxay fureen dukaankooda ka hortagga dhaqanka, Let It Rock, oo ku yaal 430 King's Road, London. Dukaankaas, oo hadda loo yaqaan Worlds End, waa meesha uu ku dhashay moodada waddooyinka.
In ka badan 10 sano ee soo socda, dukaanka waxaa loo beddelay Galmo iyo Seeditionaries, soo bandhigay muuqaal iyo dhawaaq saameyn fog leh, sidaas darteedna la ururin karo. "Alaabada kelida ah ayaa aad u yar sababtoo ah dhowr arrimood, "ayuu yiri Alexander Fury, qoraaga "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." "Waqtiyada wax-soo-saarkoodu waa gaaban yahay, dharkuna waa qaali, dadkuna waxay u janjeeraan inay iibsadaan oo ay xirtaan qayb."
Agaasimaha farshaxanka ee Dior iyo Fendi, Kim Jones, wuxuu leeyahay shaqo badan oo asal ah wuxuuna aaminsan yahay in "Westwood iyo McLaren ay abuureen naqshadeynta dharka casriga ah. Waxay ahaayeen aragtiyaal," ayuu yidhi.
Matxafyo badan ayaa sidoo kale aruuriya waxyaalahan. Michael Costiff, socialite, naqshadeeye gudaha iyo ilaaliye ee World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, wuxuu ahaa macmiil hore ee Mr. McLaren iyo Ms. Westwood. 178 dhar oo uu la soo ururiyay xaaskiisa, Gerlinde, ayaa hadda ku jira ururinta Victoria iyo Albert Museum, kaas oo ka soo iibsaday Mr Costiff's 2000s National Arts. Sanduuqa Ururinta.
Qiimaha canabka ee McLaren iyo Westwood ayaa ka dhigaya bartilmaameedka budhcad-badeedda moodada. Heerka ugu cad, nuqulada ayaa laga heli karaa internetka oo si toos ah iyo jaban, iyada oo aan khiyaano lahayn - kaliya garaaf la yaqaan oo ku saabsan t-shirt fudud.
"Qalabkani wuxuu ka yimid asal ka soo jeeda dunida farshaxanka," ayuu yiri Paul Stolper, gallerist fadhigiisuna London, kaas oo ururinta ugu badan ee shaqooyinka punk asalka ah ay hadda ku jiraan Matxafka Farshaxanka ee Metropolitan.
Kadibna waxaa jira been abuur badan oo cad, sida midhaha jaban ee T-shirt ee T-shirt oo leh Mickey Mouse oo iskutallaabta lagu qodbay, ama $ 190 "SEX asliga ah" xirmooyinka gaaban ee A Store Robot ee Tokyo kuwaas oo si sahlan loo aqoonsan karo sida aan asalka ahayn, Sababtoo ah dharka cusub iyo xaqiiqda ah in qaabkani aan waligiis la samaynin 1970-yadii. Suuqa Japanese-ka ayaa daadiyay.
Sannadkii hore, Mr Gorman waxa uu eBay gudaha UK ka helay dhar la yidhaa “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood ‘Charlie Brown’ White T-shirt” oo uu ku iibsaday qiimihiisu £100 (qiyaastii $139) .
"Waa tusaale xiiso leh oo been abuur ah," ayuu yidhi." Marna ma jirin. Laakiin kordhinta hal-ku-dhigga 'Halaagga' iyo weerarka isku dayga ah in la isticmaalo dabeecadda aadka loo jecel yahay ee lagu sawiray hab ka soo horjeeda dhaqanka ayaa hagaya habka McLaren iyo Westwood. Waxaan isticmaalaa khabiirka Madbacadaha ayaa xaqiijiyay in khadyadu ay yihiin kuwo casri ah, iyo sidoo kale tolida funaanadda. "
Carmalka Mr McLaren, Young Kim, waxay si adag u shaqeysay sannado badan si ay u ilaaliso dhaxalka iyo dhaxalka. "Waxaan aaday Matxafka Metropolitan 2013 si aan u eego ururinta," ayay tiri King.
Waxaa jira calaamado kale. "Waxay haystaan ​​labo kabo ah oo surwaal ah iyo surwaal maqaar ah, kuwaas oo naadir ah oo sax ah, "Ms King ayaa tiri. "Waxay ku dhacaan lammaane labaad, taas oo been abuur ah. Tolitaanka ayaa ku yaal dusha sare ee dhexda, maaha gudaha, sida dhar si fiican loo sameeyay. D-ringkuna aad buu u cusub yahay. "
Shaqada Met's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" bandhigga ayaa soo jiidatay dareenka ka dib markii Ms. King iyo Mr. Gorman ay si cad uga hadleen been-abuurka lagu eedeeyay iyo qaar badan oo ka mid ah is-waafajinta bandhigga.
Laakiin waxaa jira su'aalo ku saabsan shaqada soo gashay madxafka siddeed sano ka hor. Tusaalooyinka waxaa ka mid ah suudhka addoonsiga oo si muuqata uga muuqday bandhigga 2006 "Anglomania", oo loo aaneynayo ganacsade qadiimiga ah oo fadhigiisu yahay London Simon Easton, iyo shirkadda kiraynta ee Westwood iyo McLaren Punk Pistol Collection, kaas oo bixiyay stylists iyo filim sameeyayaal, iyo 3, ganacsigiisii ​​​​Germany. Matxafka online-ka ah.Waqti ka mid ah, madxafku wuxuu joojiyay liiska suudadka oo qayb ka ah ururintiisa.
"Sannadkii 2015, laba qaybood oo McLaren-Westwood ah oo ururintayada ku jira ayaa la go'aamiyey inay been abuur yihiin," ayuu yidhi Andrew Bolton, madaxa maamulaha machadka dharka ee Metropolitan.
Mr Gorman waxa uu Bolton u diray dhowr email oo uu ku sheegay in shaqooyinka kale ee taxanaha ahi ay dhibaato ku qabaan, balse Mr Gorman waxa uu sheegay in Mr Bolton aanu mar dambe u jawaabin isaga.Afhayeen u hadashay machadka dharka ayaa sheegtay in qaybaha ay khubaradu ay baadheen wax ka badan hal mar.Mr Bolton waxa uu diiday in uu faallo dheeraad ah ka bixiyo maqaalkan.
Mr Easton, oo aan ka faalloon doonin maqaalkan, ayaa email ahaan ku sheegay in Mr Bowie uu u hadlayay isaga, laakiin magaciisa lama tirtiri karo halyeeyga punk been abuurka ah. Sannado badan, boggiisa PunkPistol.com, oo la kaydiyay 2008, ayaa dad badani u arkaan inay tahay kayd kayd ah oo lagu kalsoonaan karo oo loogu talagalay naqshadaha asalka ah ee McLaren iyo Westwood.
Si kastaba ha ahaatee, Mr Bowie ayaa sheegay in inkasta oo ay dadaal badan u galeen in ay ansixiyaan ururinta, "habka khatarta ah ee dharka asal ahaan loo raray, la soo saaray oo markii dambe dib loo soo saaray ayaa caqabad ku noqday. Maanta, xitaa liisaska liiska xaraashka, rasiidhada iyo xaaladaha qaarkood ee shahaadada Westwood, dharkani weli waa muran."
Sebtembar 9, 2008, Mr. McLaren ayaa markii ugu horreysay lagu wargeliyay baaxadda khiyaanada ku hareeraysan isaga iyo Ms. Westwood iyada oo loo marayo iimayl qarsoodi ah oo uu u gudbiyay Mr. Gorman maqaalkan oo ay xaqiijisay Ms. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Warbixinada ka dib, booliisku waxay weerareen guryo ku yaal Croydon iyo Eastbourne, halkaas oo ay ka heleen duubo calaamado kicin ah," emailka ayaa lagu yiri." Laakiin waa ayo kuwan cusub ee jilaagan? Soo dhawoow Mr Grant Howard iyo Mr Lee Parker."
Grant Champkins-Howard, oo hadda ah DJ hoos yimaada alias Grant Dale, iyo Lee Parker, tuubiste, ayaa lagu maxkamadeeyay Kingston Crown Court bishii Juun 2010, garsooraha Susan Matthews ayaa tiri. Waxay yihiin "beenaalayaal faalso ah." Hantidooda waxaa soo weeraray 2008dii kooxda Farshaxanka iyo Farshaxanka ee Magaalada waxayna qabteen shixnad lagu eedeeyay McLaren iyo Westwood dhar iyo agabyo la xiriira, iyo sidoo kale 120 been abuur ah oo Banksy ah.
Labada qof ayaa markii dambe lagu helay dambi ah inay ka been abuurteen shaqadii Banksy.Mr. McLaren, oo ah abuuraha kaliya ee dharka asalka ah ee Jinsiga iyo Seditionary ee doonaya inuu marag furo, ayaa la waydiistay inuu baaro alaabta la qabtay oo uu tilmaamo tilmaamo muujinaya in dharku ay yihiin kuwo been abuur ah: cabbirka saxda ah ee xarfaha xarfaha, maro aan iswaafajin, isticmaalka YKK halkii ay ka ahaan lahayd hillaac calaamadeysan, isku-dhafka sawirada khaldan iyo midab cad oo duug ah.
“Wuu xanaaqsanaa,” ayay tiri Ms King.” Waxa uu aad u dareemayay ilaalinta iyo difaaca shaqadiisa, qiimo ayay u ahayd isaga. Ka dib markii uu burburay iskaashigii u dhexeeyay Mr McLaren iyo Ms Westwood 1984-kii, waxaa jiray sumcad weyn oo soo jireen ah oo ka dhaxaysay labadooda.
Mr Howard iyo Parker ayaa lagu riday xukuno ganaax ah oo ku saabsan kiiskii bangiyada, laakiin kiiskii dharka been abuurka ahaa ayaa la laalay markii Mr McLaren uu dhintay 2010 sababtoo ah wuxuu ahaa markhaati furaha u ahaa dacwad oogayaasha gudaha goobta.
Si kastaba ha ahaatee, waxa soo baxday in qoyska Ms Westwood laga yaabo inay si badheedh ah u abuureen ama u huriyeen warshadaha punk been abuurka ah.” Waxaan sameeyay daabacado xaddidan oo qaar ka mid ah naqshado hore si aan lacag ugu ururiyo si aan u bilaabo Provocateur wakiilka,” ayuu yidhi Joe Corré, ina Mr. McLaren iyo Ms. Westwood, oo furay dharkiisa hoose ee 1994 ganacsi.
"Waxaan dib u abuurnay funaanadda lafta digaaga iyo funaanadda 'Venus'," ayuu yiri Mr. Corré. "Waxa lagu calaamadeeyay nuqullo xaddidan, oo la soo saaray tiro xaddidan oo 100 ah, ka dibna loo iibiyey suuqa Japan." Kahor kuwan nuqulladan faahfaahsan ee qaaliga ah, soo saarista shaqadu waxay ku koobnayd muraayadaha silk ee cad ee shaadhka jumlada ah Daabacaadda, xawaaraha wax-soo-saarku waa dhakhso, qiimuhuna waa raqiis.
Mr. Corré ayaa sheegay in Vivienne Westwood ay shati siisay taranka.Mr. McLaren wuu xanaaqay.Email ku taariikhaysan 14kii Oktoobar 2008 oo uu u diray koox uu ku jiro wariye Steven Daly, Mr McLaren wuxuu ku qoray: "Yaa u ogolaaday inay sidan sameeyaan? Waxaan u sheegay Joe inuu si degdeg ah u joojiyo oo u qoro isaga. Waan xanaaqsanahay."
Mr. Corré, oo dhawaan noqday agaasimaha Vivienne Foundation, "waxay u isticmaashaa xuquuqda daabacaadda shaqadeeda si naxariis leh si ay lacag ugu ururiso sababo kala duwan." Waxa uu sheegay in uu sahamin doono sida loo "joojin karo" been abuurka. King waxa ay sii waddaa in ay u dagaalanto dhaxalka Mr McLaren oo ay aaminsantahay in si isdaba joog ah looga tirtirayo taariikhdiisa.
Mr. Easton iyo Mr. Bowey's ganacsiga bastoolada punk waxay sii wadaan inay iibiyaan Ms. Westwood iyo shaqada Mr. McLaren iyada oo loo marayo dukaanka Etsy SeditionariesInTheUK, kuwaas oo intooda badan sita warqad caddayn ah oo ka socota Shirkadda Vivienne Westwood, oo ay saxeexeen, naqshadeeyeen oo kaydiyeen Murray Blewett.These waxaa ka mid ah shaati xariijimo leh oo leh Peter Pan collars iyo Levil-Karshka silica ee Levil. jaakado suuf-caag ah.
Internetku uma adaga sida guryaha xaraashka badankooda, kamana faalloon doonaan maqaalkan, laakiin waxay sheegeen inay matalaan oo keliya shaqooyinka leh cadad aan xabbadu karin, tusaale ahaan sawirrada mulkiilaha oo xidhan dharka sannadihii 1970-yadii.
"Waxaa muhiim ah in la fahmo in dhibanayaal badan oo been abuur ah ay yihiin dhibanayaal diyaar u ah," ayuu yiri Mr Gorman. "Waxay runtii rabaan inay rumaystaan ​​inay qayb ka yihiin sheekada asalka ah. Taasi waa waxa fashion uu ku saabsan yahay, miyaanay ahayn? Dhammaantood waxaa keenay rabitaan."