Izindaba kanye Cindezela

Ngakho-ke ufuna ukuthenga into entsha, kodwa awufuni ukufaka isandla ezibalweni ezethusa ngempela ozithola lapho i-Googling “ithonya lemfashini lemvelo.” Wenzani
Uma ungathanda ukusimama, kungenzeka ukuthi uzwe inguqulo yalesi sisho: “I-___ esimeme kakhulu yilokho osuvele unakho.” Yiqiniso, kodwa akusebenzi ngaso sonke isikhathi, ikakhulukazi uma Izembatho: Izitayela ziyashintsha, kanjalo nezezimali, futhi ufuna ukuqhubeka futhi ube nento entsha ecwebezelayo.Nokho, imboni yezemfashini kufanele yehlise ijubane.Ngokombiko wakamuva we-Bloomberg, imfashini ibala amaphesenti angu-10 okukhishwa kwe-carbon dioxide emhlabeni wonke kanye nengxenye yesihlanu yokukhiqizwa kwepulasitiki yomhlaba wonke yonyaka.
Okulandelayo okuhle kakhulu ngokugqoka izingubo osuvele unazo yilokho imboni yezemfashini ekubiza ngokuthi “ukusetshenziswa ngokuqaphela.” Ngokuvamile sihlobanisa izindleko eziphezulu nekhwalithi ephezulu, kodwa akunjalo.
Umthengi wemfashini u-Amanda Lee McCarty, ophethe i-podcast ye-Clotheshorse, usebenze njengomthengi iminyaka engaphezu kwe-15, ikakhulukazi embonini yezemfashini esheshayo-uthatha lokho akubiza ngokuthi "imfashini esheshayo" yembonini esihlalweni esingaphambili.Ngemuva kokuwohloka komnotho ngo-2008, amakhasimende ayefuna izaphulelo, futhi uma abathengisi abavamile bengazange bamnike, wathi Forever21.
Isixazululo, uMcCarty uthe, ukubeka amanani entengo ephezulu bese uhlela ukuthengisa iningi lazo ngesaphulelo - okusho ukuthi izindleko zokukhiqiza ziyehla futhi zehla.
UMcCarty uthe ithonya seligcwele embonini, laze lafinyelela ezinkampanini zemfashini eziwubukhazikhazi. Yingakho namuhla, “ukutshala imali” akulula njengokuthenga into ebizayo. Noma kunjalo, akuwona wonke umuntu ongasebenzisa imali eningi egqokeni, futhi nemikhiqizo eminingi esimeme ayilinganisi. Ngakho, yini okufanele siyibheke? Ayikho impendulo eyodwa efanele, kodwa kunezindlela eziyisigidi zokuba ngcono.
Khetha imicu yemvelo—ukotini, ilineni, usilika, uvolo, i-hemp, njll—ezohlala isikhathi eside kunawo wonke ku-wardrobe yakho. Ngokukhethekile, usilika utholakale uyindwangu ehlala isikhathi eside ngokwesikhathi sokuyisebenzisa, ulandelwa uboya. Lokho kungenxa yokuthi lezi zindwangu nazo zinesikhathi eside kakhulu phakathi kokuwashwa, okusiza ukuzigcina zisesimweni esihle. i-polyester izosebenza isikhathi eside kunawo wonke emhlabeni, ngokombiko walo nyaka.)
U-Erin Beatty, umsunguli we-Rentrayage, uthe uyathanda ukuthola i-hemp ne-jute ngoba ziyizitshalo ezivuselelekayo.
KuRebecca Burgess, umsunguli nomqondisi wenhlangano engenzi nzuzo i-Fibershed kanye nombhali we-Fibershed: A Movement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, imayelana nokufuna ukuxhasa imiphakathi yasendaweni yabalimi, ikakhulukazi indwangu eyenziwe e-US.” uvolo imicu eyinhloko esiyikhiqizayo ngingayimelela noma yimiphi imicu yemvelo eqondene ne-bioregion ethize.
Kukhona nesigaba semicu okungeyona ipulasitiki kodwa engeyona yemvelo ngokuphelele.I-Viscose iyi-fiber etholakala ku-pulp yokhuni eye yaphathwa ngamakhemikhali nge-sodium hydroxide kanye ne-carbon disulfide.Kunezinkinga ezithile nge-viscose: Ngokusho kwe-Good on You, inqubo yokukhiqiza i-viscose imosha futhi ingcolisa imvelo, futhi ukukhiqizwa kwe-viscose kuyimbangela enhle kangakanani, noma kunjalo ukukhiqizwa kwe-viscose kuyimbangela enhle kangakanani. into.
Muva nje, i-Eco Vero - ifayibha ye-viscose esebenzisa inqubo yokukhiqiza enomthwalo wemfanelo kakhudlwana nengenawo umthelela omncane - iye yaqaliswa - ngakho-ke ezinye izinyathelo ziyathathwa ukuze kuthuthukiswe i-carbon footprint yale micu yokwenziwa kwe-semi-synthetic.
Bheka i-eco-fabrics: Imininingwane yendaba yokukhiqiza i-fiber - zimbalwa futhi zimbalwa izindlela ezisimeme zokukhiqiza imicu yemvelo efana nekotini nosilika, njengama-semi-synthetic fibres angaboli.Ngokwesibonelo, ukukhiqizwa kukasilika kuyingozi kukho kokubili imisundu ekhiphayo noma ebulalayo, kodwa ungabheka usilika we-Ahimsa ogcina izibungu. ngifuna isitifiketi se-GOTS noma i-Global Organic Textile Standard esinezidingo eziqinile zemvelo.Njengoba sikhuluma, izinto ezintsha ezihlukile kunezindwangu zepulasitiki ziyadalwa; isibonelo, "isikhumba se-vegan" ngokomlando senziwe ngamapulasitiki ahlanzekile atholakala ku-petroleum, kodwa izinto ezintsha ezifana nesikhumba samakhowe kanye nesikhumba sikaphayinaphu sibonisa isithembiso esikhulu.
I-Google ingumngane wakho: Akuwona wonke amabhrendi ahlinzeka ngemininingwane yokuthi indwangu ikhiqizwa kanjani, kodwa bonke abakhiqizi bezingubo kudingeka bafake ilebula yangaphakathi ehlukanisa i-fiber yengubo ngamaphesenti.U-Kate Caric wenkampani yezingubo ezizinzile ezinze e-London uveza ukuthi amabhrendi amaningi - ikakhulukazi amabhrendi emfashini asheshayo - ahlanganisa ngamabomu amalebula awo. Ipulasitiki ihambisana namagama amaningi ukuze ukwazi lokho' google.
Uma sishintsha imiqondo yethu futhi sibona ukuthenga ibhulukwe njengesibopho seminyaka yonke noma utshalomali oluzuzisayo, esikhundleni sokuzikhandla, maningi amathuba okuthi sigcine esikuthengayo futhi sigqoke lokho esinakho. Ngemva kokuhlola izimiso zokuthenga, uCaric uthi, ubeka kuqala izingubo ezimjabulisayo - okuhlanganisa namathrendi. ubumnandi obuningi ezimpahleni Yinto esiyenza nsuku zonke futhi kufanele siyizwe kahle.”
UBeatty uyavuma ukuthi izingubo ozigqoka kanye noma kabili ziyinkinga: “Empeleni imayelana, yiziphi lezo zicucu ezizochaza ukubukeka kwakho ngokuphindaphindiwe?” Ingxenye yalokho ukucabanga ngendlela yokunakekela ucezu lwengubo ngaphambi kokuyithenga; isibonelo, ingabe ihlanzeka okomile kuphela?Uma zingekho izinto zokuhlanza ezomile ezivumelana nemvelo endaweni yakini, kungase kungabi nengqondo ukuthenga lo mkhiqizo.
KuMcCarty, esikhundleni sokuthenga ngokuxhamazela, wazinika isikhathi sokucabanga ukuthi ucezu lungangena kanjani futhi kuphi ekhabetheni lakhe lezingubo.” Ungamangala ukuthi zingaki izingubo ezimpofu kakhulu nezingalawuleki ezingasuswa ngalo mdlalo ngokushesha empilweni yakho.”
Ekupheleni kwencwadi kaBill McKibben ethi, “Earth,” enye yezincwadi ezinethemba elikhulu engizifundile mayelana nenkinga yesimo sezulu, uphetha ngokuthi, ngokuyisisekelo, ezayo yethu Ikusasa liwukubuyela esimweni somnotho esikhona, esisezingeni elincane.UBurgess uyavuma: ukuhlala endaweni kuyisihluthulelo sokuthenga okusimeme.”Ngifuna ukweseka imiphakathi yami yokulima nokulima.” Ngifuna ukuxhasa imiphakathi yami yokulima nokufuya.” abalimi ukuthi banakekele indawo yangakithi ngokukhetha kwami ​​ukuthenga.”
U-Abrima Erwiah - uprofesa, uchwepheshe wemfashini esimeme kanye nomsunguli we-Studio 189 - uthatha indlela efanayo. Nakuba ethenga ezinkampanini ezinkulu ezisimeme njengo-Eileen Fisher, uMfowethu Vellies kanye noMara Hoffman, uvame ukubheka amabhizinisi amancane enyakatho yeNew York.
Umsebenzi awenzayo manje uyazuza ngesikhathi sakhe sokuzithandela eGhana nokuhlala nezihlobo, okumsize ukuba acabange kabusha indlela athenga ngayo. Ukuxhumana kwakhe okuqinile nochwepheshe bezimpahla zokugqoka kumsize ukuba aqonde ukuthi yonke into kusukela epulazini kuya kweyokugqoka ixhumene kanjani.” Endaweni efana neGhana enezinto eziningi ezingamasekeni, uyaqaphela ukuthi kwenzekani uma ungasazidingi izinto zakho.”
Uma umkhiqizo ulwela ukulandelela umsuka oqondile wezingubo zalo futhi ube obala mayelana nemikhuba yawo, ubonisa izindinganiso eziqinile eziyisisekelo. Uma uthenga mathupha, u-Erwiah uthi kungcono ukubuza imibuzo mayelana nemikhuba yayo yokuziphatha neyokuzinza. Lena enye yezindlela ezingcono kakhulu zokuzihlolela ukuthi izingubo zabo zikufanele yini ukutshalwa kwezimali. ukhuluma nomuntu onomthelela othile ezinkambisweni zebhizinisi.Enkampanini enkulu, uma abasebenzi bebuzwa njalo mayelana nokusimama, ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, bangabona ukuthi lokhu kuyinto ebaluleke kakhulu kumakhasimende futhi benze izinguquko.Eqinisweni, ukuthenga okuningi manje kwenzeka ku-inthanethi.Obekufunwa u-Caric kwakuwukuthi ingabe uhlobo oluthile lwaluvakashela amafekthri alo nokuthi lufaka yini ulwazi kuwebhusayithi yabo mayelana nendlela abakhokhela ngayo abasebenzi babo.Akukaze kube buhlungu ukuthumela i-imeyili eyengeziwe.
Ukugaywa kabusha kungenye yamagama ajwayelekile asetshenziswa ukuhlanza imfashini esheshayo. I-polyester egaywe kabusha ingaba yinkinga ikakhulukazi. Kodwa ngokuka-Erwiah, konke kumayelana nokuklama okunenjongo. Ucaphuna ifilosofi ye-cradle to cradle. Kuhle ukushintsha amabhodlela epulasitiki abe yizingubo zokujima, kodwa aphenduka abe yini ngemva kwalokho? Mhlawumbe kudingeka ahlale isikhathi eside ngangokunokwenzeka; “Ngezinye izikhathi kungcono ukungalishintshi,” kusho u-Erwiah.” Uma kuyibhulukwe elijulukayo, mhlawumbe kumayelana nokulisebenzisa kabusha futhi ulinikeze impilo yesibili, kunokutshala imali eningi ekwakheni enye into. Asikho isixazululo esilingana nesisodwa.”
Lapho uBeatty enquma ukuqalisa i-Rentrayage, wagxila ekugayeleni kabusha lokho ayesenakho, esebenzisa izingubo zakudala, izindwangu ezifile, nezinye izinto ezazisetshenziswa kakade—wayehlale efuna amagugu, njengalezo zikibha eziphuma kanye nje.” Enye yezinto ezimbi kakhulu emvelweni yilezi zikibha zokugqoka okukodwa ezazenzelwe lo mjaho webanga eliphansi kakhulu,” usho kanje. muhle.” Eziningi zalezi zikibha ziyingxube ye-cotton-polyester, kodwa njengoba sezikhona kakade, kufanele zisakazwe njengezingubo isikhathi eside ngangokunokwenzeka , uBeatty uzama ukuphinda azisebenzise ngoba azigugi ngokushesha.
Kwezinye izimo, awutholi ngaso sonke isikhathi izimiso zomkhiqizo noma okuqukethwe kwefayibha lapho uthenga izinto ezisetshenzisiwe.Nokho, ukunikeza ukubukeka okusha engutsheni esivele intanta emhlabeni wonke futhi egcina isendaweni yokulahla imfucumfucu kuhlale kuyinketho eqhubekayo.
Ngisho nasezitolo zamasekeni, kunezindlela zokuhlola izinga namandla ahlala njalo, uCaric uthe. Mayelana nedenim, uCaric usho izinto ezimbili okufanele uzibheke: Isikwe ku-selvedge, futhi imithungo yangaphakathi nangaphandle ithungwe kabili.Lezi zonke izindlela zokuqinisa izingubo ukuze zihlale isikhathi eside ngangokunokwenzeka ngaphambi kokudinga ukulungiswa.
Ukuthenga ucezu lwezingubo kuhlanganisa ukuthwala umthwalo wemfanelo womjikelezo wempilo yento - okusho ukuthi uma sesidlule kukho konke lokhu futhi sayithenga ngempela, kufanele siyinakekele kahle. Ikakhulukazi ngezindwangu zokwenziwa, inqubo yokuwasha iyinkimbinkimbi. Kungumqondo omuhle ukutshala esikhwameni sokuhlunga ukuze umise ukukhululwa kwama-microplastics futhi usebenzise imali encane ukuze uthenge amanzi ohlelweni, ungakwazi ukuthenga amanzi amancane. isihlungi somshini wakho wokuwasha.Uma ukwazi, gwema ukusebenzisa umshini wokomisa ngokuphelele.”Uma ungabaza, yigeze futhi womise umoya.Yinto engcono kakhulu ongayenza,” kusho uBeatty.
UMcCarty futhi uncoma ukufunda ilebula yokunakekela ngaphakathi kwengubo.Uma usujwayelene nezimpawu nezinto zokwakha, uzoqala ukwazi ukuthi yini okufanele ihlanzeke futhi ifanele ukugeza izandla/isimo somoya esomile.UmcCarty uncoma futhi ukuthenga incwadi kaHeloise ethi “Handy Household Hints”, avame ukuyibona ezitolo ezithengisa izinto ezithengwayo ngemali engaphansi kwe-$5, futhi alungise inkinobho yokufunda engaphansi kwe-$5. izimbobo.Futhi, yazi lapho usuphumile ekujuleni kwakho; ngezinye izikhathi, kufanelekile ukutshala imali ekuthungeni.Ngemva kokushintsha ulwelwesi lwejazi lakudala, uMcCarty ukholelwa ukuthi uzobe eligqokile okungenani iminyaka engu-20 ezayo.
Enye inketho yokubuyekeza izingubo ezidayiwe noma ezigugile: odayi.” Ungalinge uwabuke phansi amandla kadayi omnyama,” kusho uBeatty.” Leyo ngenye imfihlo.
Ngokuthumela i-imeyili yakho, uyavumelana nemigomo yethu nesitatimende sobumfihlo futhi nokwamukela ukuxhumana kwe-imeyili okuvela kithi.
Le imeyili izosetshenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke izingosi zaseNew York.Ngokuthumela i-imeyili yakho, uyavumelana nemigomo yethu kanye nenqubomgomo yobumfihlo kanye nokwamukela ukuxhumana kwe-imeyili okuvela kithi.
Njengengxenye ye-akhawunti yakho, uzothola izibuyekezo nezaphulelo ngezikhathi ezithile ezivela eNew York futhi ungahoxa noma kunini.
Le imeyili izosetshenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke izingosi zaseNew York.Ngokuthumela i-imeyili yakho, uyavumelana nemigomo yethu kanye nenqubomgomo yobumfihlo kanye nokwamukela ukuxhumana kwe-imeyili okuvela kithi.
Njengengxenye ye-akhawunti yakho, uzothola izibuyekezo nezaphulelo ngezikhathi ezithile ezivela eNew York futhi ungahoxa noma kunini.