Izindaba kanye Cindezela

USid Vicious wayengeke akholwe ukuthi izingubo zakhe ezindala zazibaluleke kangakanani nokuthi abakhwabanisi bangenza umzamo omkhulu ukuze bazenze mbumbulu.
Kungekudala, isazi-mlando se-pop esizinze eLondon uPaul Gorman, umbhali we-The Life and Times kaMalcolm McLaren: A Biography, kanye nomdayisi wendali we-Rock Fashion uPaul Gorman bathole ucezu lukaMarr. Ihembe elenziwe ilebula lika-Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries, cishe ngo-1977, ukuze lihlolwe.
Yenziwe nge-muslin futhi ihlanganisa umfanekiso obonakala ngokushesha weciko u-Jamie Reid wemikhono ye-Sex Pistols' single "Anarchy in the UK".
Uma kuyiqiniso, izolanda intengo enhle endalini. Endalini yase-Bonhams ngoMeyi, ihembe leparashute likaMnu McLaren kanye noNkz. Westwood lathengiswa ngo-$6,660, kanye nejezi le-mohair elingavamile elimnyama nelibomvu elifekethiswe ngogebhezi namathambo kanye “nama-Sex Pistolls” ama-Sex “988 ama-Futures” No.
Kodwa-ke, uMnu Gorman akazange aqiniseke ukuthi ihembe alihlolayo yilokho okwakufunwa umnikazi walo.
"I-Muslim isiphelelwe yisikhathi kwezinye izindawo," kusho uMnu. Gorman.” Kodwa kwezinye izindawo, indwangu yayisentsha kakhulu. Uyinki wawungeyona ikhwalithi yawo-1970 futhi awuzange usabalale endwangu.” Ebuzwa mayelana nokuvela kwayo, umdayisi uhoxise ucezu endlini yendali wathi wabe esethengiswa ngasese .
Uyemukelwa emhlabeni oyinqaba nonemali eningi wama-punk mbumbulu. Kule minyaka engu-30 edlule, ukuzenza sengathi wenziwe ngezandla ngemiklamo yasekuqaleni ehlanganisa i-S-and-M nezithombe ezingcolile, ukusikeka okusha namabhande, amaphethini ensalela yezempi, ama-tweeds kanye ne-latex - uSid Vicious nontanga yakhe ku-Anarchy Okwaduma ekukhuleni kwesayensi kule nkathi.
"Ngithola ama-imeyili amaningana njalo ngenyanga ngibuza ukuthi kukhona okuyiqiniso yini," kusho uSteven Philip, umgcini wezincwadi zemfashini, umqoqi kanye nomeluleki."Ngeke ngibambe iqhaza. Abantu bathenga igolide leziwula. Kuhlala kukhona amanga angu-500 eqiniso."
Iminyaka engu-50, uMnu McLaren kanye noNkz Westwood bavule isitolo sabo sokudayisa i-counterculture, i-Let It Rock, e-430 King's Road, e-London.Leso sitolo, manje esaziwa ngokuthi i-Worlds End, siyindawo okwazalelwa kuyo imfashini yasemgwaqweni.
Eminyakeni engu-10 eyalandela, lesi sitolo saguqulwa saba i-Sex and Seditionaries, sethula ukubukeka nomsindo owaba nemiphumela efinyelela kude futhi ngenxa yalokho wawuqoqwa.” Izinto ezingashadile ziyindlala kakhulu ngenxa yezizathu eziningi,” kusho u-Alexander Fury, umbhali we-“Vivienne Westwood Catwalk.”
Umqondisi wezobuciko we-Dior kanye no-Fendi, u-Kim Jones, unomsebenzi omningi wokuqala futhi ukholelwa ukuthi "u-Westwood noMcLaren badale ipulani yezingubo zesimanje. Babengababoni," esho.
Izimyuziyamu eziningi nazo ziqoqa lezi zinto.UMichael Costiff, usocialite, umklami wangaphakathi kanye nomgcini weWorld Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, wayeyiklayenti lokuqala likaMnu. McLaren kanye noNkz. Westwood. Izingubo ezingu-178 azihlanganisa nomkakhe, uGerlinde, manje ziseqoqweni le-Victoria and Albert Museum, ethenge iqoqo likaMnu Costiff,0500 nge-Art Fund ka-£20 ka-National £20.
Inani le-vintage McLaren kanye ne-Westwood libenza babe okuqondiwe kubaphangi bemfashini. Ezingeni elisobala kakhulu, ama-replicas atholakala ku-inthanethi futhi athengiswa ngokuqondile nangeshibhile, ngaphandle kokukhohlisa - umfanekiso nje ojwayelekile esikimbeni esilula.
"Lesi siqeshana sivela emlandweni wezobuciko," kusho u-Paul Stolper, umdwebi wegalari ozinze eLondon iqoqo lakhe elikhulu lemibhalo yokuqala ye-punk manje eseMetropolitan Museum of Art." Isithombe noma ezimbili zenkathi ethile, njengoChe Guevara noma u-Marilyn, zigcina zisakazwa ngesiko lethu.
Bese kuba khona amanga asobala kakhudlwana, njengesikibha esishibhile seSithelo se-Loom esinoMickey Mouse obethelwe esiphambanweni, noma izikhindi zokugqilaza “ZOCANSI zoqobo” zika-$190 ezivela ku-A Store Robot e-Tokyo ezibonakala kalula njengezingezona ezangempela, Ngenxa yendwangu entsha kanye neqiniso lokuthi lesi sitayela asizange senziwe ngempela emakethe yaseJapan engu-197.
Ngonyaka odlule, uMnu Gorman wathola ingubo ebizwa ngokuthi “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” ku-eBay e-UK, ayithenga njengecala lokufunda ngo-£100 (cishe ama-$139) .
“Kuyisibonelo esithakazelisayo somgunyathi,” esho.” Akukaze kube khona. Kodwa ukwengezwa kwesiqubulo esithi ‘Ukubhujiswa’ kanye nokuhlasela kokuzama ukusebenzisa umlingisi wopopayi othandwa kakhulu ovezwe ngendlela ephikisana namasiko okuqondisa indlela kaMcLaren neWestwood.
Umfelokazi kaMnu McLaren, u-Young Kim, usebenze kanzima eminyakeni edlule ukuze alondoloze ifa lakhe kanye nefa lakhe.
Zikhona ezinye izimpawu.” Banebhulukwe le-tweed nelesikhumba, okuyivelakancane futhi okuyiqiniso,” kusho uNksz King.” Kuyenzeka babe nepheya lesibili, okungelona iqiniso. Umthungo uphezu kwebhande, hhayi ngaphakathi, njengoba ungaba engutsheni eyenziwe kahle. Futhi i-D-ring yintsha kakhulu.”
Umsebenzi embukisweni we-Met ka-2013 othi “Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture” udonse ukunakwa ngemuva kokuthi uNksz King noMnu. Gorman bephawule esidlangalaleni ngezinsolo zomgunyathi nokunye okuningi okungahambisani nohlelo.
Kodwa kunemibuzo mayelana nomsebenzi owawungene emnyuziyamu eminyakeni eyisishiyagalombili ngaphambili.Izibonelo zifaka isudi yobugqila eyavela ngokugqamile embukisweni we-“Anglomania” wango-2006, oshiwo ngumdayisi wezinto zakudala ezinze eLondon u-Simon Easton, kanye nenkampani eqashisayo yase-Westwood kanye ne-McLaren i-Punk Pistol Collection, ehlinzeke ngababhali bezitayela nabenzi bamafilimu, uMnumzane Geeld, kanye nozakwethu webhizinisi wase-Iraq. Bowey, usungule imnyuziyamu ku-inthanethi.Ngesikhathi esithile, imnyuziyamu yayeka ukufaka amasudi kuhlu njengengxenye yeqoqo layo.
"Ngo-2015, izingcezu ezimbili ze-McLaren-Westwood eqoqweni lethu zatholwa njengezingelomgunyathi," kusho u-Andrew Bolton, umqaphi omkhulu eMetropolitan Costume Institute.” Imisebenzi yabuye yabuyiswa.
UMnu Gorman uthumele uMnu Bolton ama-imeyili amaningana lapho athi khona eminye imisebenzi ochungechungeni inezinkinga, kodwa uMnu Gorman wathi uMnu Bolton akabange esamphendula.Umkhulumeli we-Costume Institute uthe izingcezu zihlolwe ochwepheshe izikhathi ezingaphezu kwesisodwa.UMnu Bolton wenqabile ukunikeza noma yikuphi ukuphawula okwengeziwe ngalesi sihloko.
UMnu Easton, ongathandanga ukuphawula ngalesi sihloko, uthe nge-imeyili uMnu Bowie ubemkhulumela, kodwa igama lakhe alicimeki kunsumansumane ye-punk mbumbulu. Ngokuhamba kweminyaka, isiza sakhe sePunkPistol.com, esagcinwa kungobo yomlando ngo-2008, sithathwa abaningi njengesisetshenziswa esigcina umlando esithembekile semiklamo yokuqala yaseMcLaren naseWestwood.
Nokho, uMnu Bowie wathi naphezu kwemizamo yabo emihle kakhulu yokuqinisekisa ukuqoqwa kweqoqo, “indlela izingubo ezakhulelwa ngayo ngokunganaki, ezakhiqizwa futhi kamuva zaphinde zakhiqizwa yayisithiya.
Ngomhla ziyisi-9 kuSepthemba, 2008, uMnu. McLaren waziswe okokuqala ngezinga lokukhwabanisa okumzungezile kanye noNkz. Westwood nge-imeyili engaziwa ethunyelwe nguMnu. Gorman yalesi sihloko futhi yaqinisekiswa nguNkz. Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Ngemuva kwemibiko, amaphoyisa agasele ezindlini e-Croydon nase-Eastbourne, lapho athola khona amalebula ama-agitator," kusho i-imeyili.
UGrant Champkins-Howard, manje osengu-DJ obizwa ngokuthi uGrant Dale, kanye no-Lee Parker, osebenza ngamapayipi, baquliswa eKingston Crown Court ngoJuni 2010, kusho iJaji uSusan Matthews. “Bangamaxoki akudala”. Impahla yabo yagaselwa ngempela ngo-2008 yi-Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad futhi yashaqa izimpahla okusolakala ukuthi zingezomgunyathi zakwaMcLaren nezase-Westwood nezinye izinto ezihlobene nazo, kanye nama-prints angu-Banksy angu-120.
Laba ababili kamuva batholakala benecala lokukhohlisa umsebenzi kaBanksy.UMnu. UMcLaren, okuwukuphela komdali wezingubo zokuqala ze-Sex and Seditionaries ozimisele ukufakaza, wacelwa ukuba ahlole izinto ezibanjiwe futhi akhombe imikhondo yokuthi izingubo kwakungezomgunyathi: usayizi ongalungile wombhalo we-stencil, izindwangu ezingaguquki, ukusetshenziswa kwe-YKK kunoziphu we-Lightning, ihluzo ezingalungile ze-juxtaposition kanye ne-teenage edayiwe emhlophe.
“Wayethukuthele egane unwabu,” kusho uNksz King.” Wayezizwa eqinile ngokuvikela nokuvikela umsebenzi wakhe. Kwakuyigugu kuye.” Ngemva kokubhidlika kobudlelwano phakathi kukaMnu McLaren kanye noNkz Westwood ngo-1984, kwaba khona ukungaboni ngaso linye isikhathi eside phakathi kwalaba ababili.
UMnu Howard noMnu Parker banikezwe izigwebo ezilengisiwe ecaleni likaBanks, kodwa icala lezingubo zomgunyathi lahoxiswa ngesikhathi uMnu McLaren eshona ngo-2010 ngoba wayengufakazi oqavile wabashushisi kulo mkhakha.
Nokho, kuvele ukuthi kungenzeka ukuthi umndeni kaNks Westwood udale noma ubhebhethekise imboni yepunk mbumbulu ngokungaqondile.” Ngenza izinhlelo ezilinganiselwe zemiklamo ethile yokuqala ukuze ngiqoqe imali yokwethula i-Agent Provocateur,” kusho uJoe Corré, indodana kaMnu McLaren kanye noNkz.
"Siphinde sakha isikibha sethambo lenkukhu kanye nesikibha 'seVenus'," kusho uMnu. Corré. “Zazibhalwe njengezifaniso zenguqulo elinganiselwe, zakhiqizwa ngenani elilinganiselwe lezingcezu eziyi-100, zase zidayiswa emakethe yaseJapane.” Ngaphambi kwalezi zifaniso ezinemininingwane futhi ezibizayo, ukukhiqizwa kabusha kwemisebenzi bekukhawulelwe kuzikrini zikasilika ezitholakala kuma-T-shirts athengiswayo Ukuphrinta, isivinini sokukhiqiza siyashesha, futhi intengo ishibhile.
UMnu. Corré uthe uVivienne Westwood ugunyaze ukukhiqiza kabusha. UMcLaren wayethukuthele.E-imeyilini yangomhla ziyi-14 kuMfumfu wezi-2008 eya eqenjini elihlanganisa nentatheli uSteven Daly, uMnu McLaren wabhala: “Ubani obavumele ukuba benze lokhu? Ngatshela uJoe ukuthi ayeke ngokushesha futhi ambhalele .Ngithukuthele.”
UMnu. Corré, osanda kuba umqondisi we-Vivienne Foundation, “usebenzisa amalungelo okushicilela umsebenzi wakhe ngendlela yozwela ukuze aqoqe imali yezizathu ezihlukahlukene.” Uthe uzobheka ukuthi "ungaqeda" kanjani ukukhwabanisa. UNkz King uyaqhubeka nokulwela ifa likaMnu McLaren futhi ukholelwa ukuthi wesulwa kaningi emlandweni wakhe.
Ibhizinisi likaMnu. Easton kanye noMnu. Bowey lebhizinisi le-punk pistol liyaqhubeka nokudayisa umsebenzi kaNkz. Westwood kanye noMnu McLaren ngesitolo sakwa-Etsy, i-SeditionariesInTheUK, iningi lazo elinezincwadi zesitifiketi ezivela eNkampanini yase-Vivienne Westwood, esayinwe, yaklanywa futhi yafakwa kungobo yomlando ngu-Murray Blewett.Lokhu kuhlanganisa amahembe anemithende anemigqa kanye ne-Karl ku-Parted shirts kanye no-Peter Amajakhethi erabha ka-Levi aphefumulelwe ngu-Levi.
I-inthanethi ayiqinile njengezindlu eziningi zendali, futhi ngeke baphawule ngalesi sihloko, kodwa bathi bamele kuphela imisebenzi enezinhlamvu ezingangenwa izinhlamvu, okungukuthi izithombe zomnikazi egqoke izingubo ngeminyaka yawo-1970.
“Kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuthi izisulu eziningi zokwenziwa mbumbulu ziyizisulu ezizimisele,” kusho uMnu Gorman.” Bafuna ngempela ukukholelwa ukuthi bayingxenye yendaba yokuqala. Yilokho imfashini eyikho, akunjalo?