Izindaba kanye Cindezela

Kule sizini, imboni yezemfashini yaseTurkey ibhekane nezinselelo eziningi, kusukela enkingeni eqhubekayo ye-Covid-19 kanye nokungqubuzana kwe-geopolitical emazweni angomakhelwane, kuya ekuphazanyisweni okuqhubekayo kokuthengwa kwempahla, isimo sezulu esibanda ngendlela engavamile esimisa ukukhiqizwa kanye nenkinga yezomnotho yezwe, njengoba kubonakala enkingeni yezezimali yaseTurkey ngokusho kwe-Financial Times yase-UK. Iphephandaba iThe Times libike ukuthi ukwehla kwamandla emali kukhuphuke ngeminyaka engu-20 kuma-54% ngoMashi nonyaka.
Naphezu kwalezi zingqinamba, ithalente ledizayini yaseTurkey esunguliwe futhi ekhulayo ibonise ukuqina nethemba e-Istanbul Fashion Week kule sizini, yamukela ngokushesha inhlanganisela yemicimbi futhi ibonise namasu okwandisa futhi afakazele ukuba khona kwayo emhlabeni wonke kule sizini.
Ukudlala ngokomzimba ezindaweni zomlando ezifana nesigodlo sase-Ottoman kanye nesonto laseCrimea elineminyaka engu-160 libuyela ohlelweni, lihlanganiswe neminikelo yedijithali ehlangene, kanye nemibukiso esanda kuvulwa, izingxoxo zephaneli kanye nezigelekeqe e-Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Abahleli bomcimbi - i-Istanbul Garment Exporters Association noma i-İHKİB, i-Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) kanye ne-Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - babambisene ne-Istanbul Soho House ukuze banikeze abantu bendawo ulwazi olujulile lokuhlola bukhoma kanye nokuvakasha ngamalungu emboni yokusakaza bukhoma.Izethameli zamazwe ngamazwe zingabe sezixhuma ku-inthanethi ngeSikhungo Semicimbi Yedijithali ye-FWI.
E-Istanbul, kwakunomqondo ozwakalayo wamandla amasha ekusebenzeni nasekuhlolweni kwemisebenzi yomzimba njengoba ababambiqhaza bejoyina imiphakathi yabo mathupha futhi ezimweni zezulu.
“[Siyakukhumbula] ukuba ndawonye,” kusho umklami wezingubo zabesilisa u-Niyazi Erdoğan.” Amandla aphakeme futhi wonke umuntu ufuna ukuba sohlelweni.
Ngezansi, i-BoF ihlangana nabaklami abasafufusa abayi-10 emicimbini nemicimbi yabo Yeviki Lemfashini ukuze bathole ukuthi imikhankaso yabo namasu omkhiqizo avele kanjani e-Istanbul kule sizini.
U-Şansım Adalı wafunda e-Brussels ngaphambi kokusungula u-Sudi Etuz. Umklami, olwela indlela yokuqala yedijithali, ugxile kakhulu ebhizinisini lakhe ledijithali namuhla futhi wehlisa ibhizinisi lakhe lendwangu.Usebenzisa amamodeli angokoqobo abonakalayo, abaculi bedijithali nonjiniyela bobuhlakani bokwenziwa, kanye namaqoqo ama-capsule e-NFT nezingubo ezilinganiselwe zomzimba.
U-Şansım Adalı uphatha umbukiso wakhe eCrimea Memorial Church eduze kwaseGalata e-Istanbul, lapho imiklamo yakhe yedijithali imodelwa kuma-avatar edijithali futhi ikhonjiswe esikrinini esingamamitha angu-8 ubude. Ngemva kokulahlekelwa uyise ngenxa ye-Covid-19, wachaza ukuthi namanje “akuzwakali kahle” ukuba nabantu abaningi embukisweni wemfashini wedijithali ndawonye.
“Kuyinto ehluke kakhulu, ukuba nombukiso wedijithali endaweni endala yokwakha,” utshele i-BoF.” Ngiyawuthanda umehluko. Wonke umuntu uyazi ngaleli sonto, kodwa akekho ongena. Isizukulwane esisha asazi nokuthi lezi zindawo zikhona. Ngakho-ke, ngifuna ukubona isizukulwane esisha ngaphakathi futhi sikhumbule ukuthi sinalesi sakhiwo esihle sezakhiwo.
Umbukiso wedijithali uhambisana nokudlalwa kwe-opera ebukhoma, futhi umculi ugqoka enye yezingubo ezimbalwa zomzimba u-Adal azenzayo namuhla - kodwa ikakhulukazi, u-Sudi Etuz uhlose ukugcina ukugxila kwedijithali.
"Izinhlelo zami zesikhathi esizayo wukugcina uhlangothi lwendwangu yomkhiqizo wami luncane ngoba angicabangi ukuthi umhlaba udinga olunye uhlobo lokukhiqiza ngobuningi. Ngigxile kumaphrojekthi edijithali. Nginethimba lonjiniyela bamakhompyutha, abaculi bedijithali kanye neThimba labaculi bezingubo. Ithimba lami labaklami nguGen Z, futhi ngiyazama ukubaqonda, ngibabuke, ngibalalele."
U-Gökay Gündoğdu wathuthela eNew York ukuyofundela ukuphathwa komkhiqizo ngaphambi kokujoyina i-Domus Academy eMilan ngo-2007. UGündoğdu wasebenza e-Italy ngaphambi kokuthula ilebula yakhe yezingubo zabesifazane ethi TAGG ngo-2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu.
I-TAGG iphrezenta iqoqo lale sizini ngendlela yombukiso wemnyuziyamu owenziwe ngedijithali: “Sisebenzisa amakhodi e-QR nezinto ezingokoqobo ezingathandwa kwabathelisi esikubona ukuze sibuke amafilimu abukhoma aphuma ezilenge ezibondeni — izinguqulo zamavidiyo ezithombe ezimile, njengombukiso wemfashini,” u-Gündoğdu etshela i-BoF.
"Angiyena nhlobo umuntu wedijithali," esho, kodwa phakathi nalolu bhubhane, "konke esikwenzayo kungokwedijithali. Senza iwebhusayithi yethu ifinyeleleke kalula futhi kube lula ukuyiqonda. Sise [inkundla yokuphatha isamba esiphelele] uJoor ubonise iqoqo ngo-2019 futhi wazuza amakhasimende amasha namasha e-US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait."
Naphezu kwempumelelo yakhe, ukuthola i-TAGG kuma-akhawunti wamazwe ngamazwe kule sizini kube yinselele.” Abezindaba bamazwe ngamazwe kanye nabathengi bahlale befuna ukubona okuthile okuvela kithi eTurkey. Angizisebenzisi ngempela izici zamasiko - ubuhle bami buyinto encane kakhulu, "esho. Kodwa ukuze ahehe izethameli zamazwe ngamazwe, uGündodu udonse ugqozi ezigodlweni zaseTurkey, elingisa ukwakheka kwayo nengaphakathi elinemibala efana ne-silho.
Inkinga yezomnotho nayo ithinte amaqoqo akhe kule sizini: "I-lira yaseTurkey ilahlekelwa amandla, ngakho yonke into ibiza kakhulu. Ukungenisa izindwangu ezivela phesheya kumatasa. Uhulumeni uthi akufanele uqhube ukuncintisana phakathi kwabakhiqizi bendwangu bangaphandle kanye nemakethe yasekhaya. Kufanele Ukhokhe intela eyengeziwe ukuze ungenise." Ngenxa yalokho, abaklami baxuba izindwangu zasendaweni nalezo ezazingeniswa e-Italy naseFrance.
Umqondisi Wokudala u-Yakup Bicer wethule uhlobo lwakhe lwe-Y Plus, uhlobo lwe-unisex, ngo-2019 ngemuva kweminyaka engu-30 embonini yokuklama yaseTurkey.
Iqoqo ledijithali leqoqo le-Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 ligqugquzelwe “amaqhawe ekhibhodi angaziwa nabavikeli bawo be-crypto-anarchist ideology” futhi lidlulisa umlayezo wokuvikela inkululeko yezepolitiki ezinkundleni zokuxhumana.
"Ngifuna ukuqhubeka [nokubonisa] isikhashana," etshela i-BoF. "Njengoba senzile esikhathini esidlule, ukuhlanganisa abathengi phakathi neviki lemfashini kudla isikhathi esiningi futhi kuwumthwalo wezezimali. Manje singakwazi ukufinyelela zonke izingxenye zomhlaba ngesikhathi esifanayo ngokucindezela inkinobho ngephrezentheshini yedijithali ."
Ngale kobuchwepheshe, i-Bicer ithuthukisa ukukhiqizwa kwendawo ukuze inqobe ukuphazamiseka kokuthengwa kwempahla - futhi ngokwenza kanjalo, inethemba lokuletha izinqubo ezisimeme.” Sibhekene nemikhawulo yokuvakasha futhi manje sisempini [esifundeni somhlaba], ngakho-ke inkinga yempahla eyidalayo ithinta uhwebo lwethu lonke. [...] Ngokusebenzisana nokukhiqizwa kwasendaweni, siqinisekisa ukuthi [imisebenzi] yethu [okwengeziwe] inciphisa ikhabhoni yethu, futhi [siyinciphisa] izinyawo zethu.”
U-Ece no-Ayse Ege bethula uhlobo lwabo lwe-Dice Kayek ngo-1992. Ngaphambili olwakhiqizwa eParis, lolu hlobo lwajoyina i-Fédération Française de la Couture ngo-1994 futhi lwaklonyeliswa ngomklomelo we-Jameel Prize III, umklomelo wamazwe ngamazwe wobuciko besimanje kanye nomklamo ogqugquzelwe amasiko e-Islamic, ngo-2013 isitudiyo saso siphinde sathuthwa emhlabeni wonke e-Istanbul.
Odadewabo baka-Dice Kayek u-Ece no-Ayse Ege babonise iqoqo labo kuvidiyo yemfashini kule sizini - ifomethi yedijithali manje abajwayelene nayo, abenza amafilimu emfashini kusukela ngo-2013. Yivule bese ubuyela kuyo. Inenani eliningi. Eminyakeni engu-10 noma engu-12, ungaphinda uyibuke. Sikhetha ukuhlukahluka kwayo," u-Ece etshela i-BOF.
Namuhla, i-Dice Kayek idayisa emazweni aseYurophu, e-US, eMpumalanga Ephakathi nase-China. Ngesitolo sabo e-Paris, bahlukanise ulwazi lwabathengi esitolo ngokusebenzisa amasiko aseTurkey njengendlela yokuthengisa yokuhlangenwe nakho.
Odade ngaphambilini babenebhizinisi labo besuka eParis ngaphambi kokuthuthela e-Istanbul, lapho isitudiyo sabo sixhunywe e-showroom ka-Beaumonti. U-Dice Kayek wafaka ibhizinisi labo ngaphakathi ngokugcwele futhi wabona ukukhiqizwa kuba nenzuzo enkulu, “into esasingakwazi ukuyenza ngenkathi sikhiqiza kwenye imboni.” Ekuletheni ukukhiqizwa endlini, odade babenethemba lokuthi ubuciko baseTurkey busekelwa futhi bugcinwe eqoqweni labo.
U-Niyazi Erdoğan ungumklami ongumsunguli we-Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 kanye nePhini Likamongameli we-Turkish Fashion Designers Association, futhi ungumfundisi e-Istanbul Fashion Academy. Ngaphezu kolayini bezingubo zabesilisa, wasungula uhlobo lwezinsiza i-NIYO ngo-2014 futhi wawina i-European Museum Award ngonyaka ofanayo.
U-Niyazi Erdoğan wethule iqoqo lakhe lezingubo zabesilisa ngedijithali kule sizini: "Sonke sidala ngokwedijithali manje - sibonisa ku-Metaverse noma ama-NFTs. Sithengisa iqoqo ngokwedijithali nangokomzimba, siya nhlangothi zombili. Sifuna ukulungiselela ikusasa lakho kokubili," etshela i-BoF.
Kodwa-ke, ngesizini ezayo, uthe, "Ngicabanga ukuthi kufanele sibe nombukiso womzimba. Imfashini ikhuluma ngomphakathi nomuzwa, futhi abantu bayathanda ukuba ndawonye. Kubantu abahlakaniphile, siyakudinga lokhu."
Ngesikhathi sodlame, uhlobo lomkhiqizo lwakha isitolo esiku-inthanethi futhi lwashintsha amaqoqo abo ukuze abe “okuthengiswa kangcono” ku-inthanethi, kucatshangelwa izinguquko ezidingweni zabathengi ngesikhathi sodlame. Uphinde wabona ushintsho kulesi sisekelo sabathengi: “Ngibona izingubo zami zabesilisa zithengiswa nakwabesifazane, ngakho-ke ayikho imingcele.”
Njengomfundisi we-IMA, u-Erdogan uhlala efunda esizukulwaneni esilandelayo. "Esizukulwaneni esinjengo-Alpha, uma usemfashinini, kufanele ubaqonde. Umbono wami uwukuqonda izidingo zabo, ukuba namasu mayelana nokusimama, idijithali, umbala, ukusika kanye nokuma - kufanele sisebenzisane Nabo bayasebenzisana."
Isiqu se-Istituto Marangoni, u-Nihan Peker wasebenzela izinkampani ezifana noFrankie Morello, uColmar noFurla ngaphambi kokwethula ilebula lakhe le-namesake ngo-2012, edizayina amaqoqo aselungele ukugqokwa, omakoti nama-couture. Uye wakhangisa eLondon, eParis naseMilan Fashion Weeks.
Ukugubha iminyaka engu-10 lo mkhiqizo kule sizini, u-Nihan Peker ubambe umbukiso wemfashini e-Çırağan Palace, isigodlo sangaphambili sase-Ottoman esiguqulwe sisuka ehhotela elibheke e-Bosphorus.
"Kwangithatha isikhathi ukuzibonakalisa ezweni lami," wanezela u-Peker, owayehlezi phambili kule nkathi nosaziwayo baseTurkey abagqoke imiklamo evela emaqoqweni akhe angaphambili.Emazweni ngamazwe, "izinto zihamba endaweni efanele," esho, ngethonya elikhulayo eMpumalanga Ephakathi.
"Bonke abaklami baseTurkey kufanele bacabange ngezinselelo zesifunda sethu ngezikhathi ezithile. Eqinisweni, njengezwe, kufanele sibhekane nezinkinga ezinkulu zezenhlalo nezombusazwe, ngakho-ke sonke silahlekelwa umfutho. Engigxile kukho manje ngamaqoqo ami Asekulungele ukugqokwa kanye ne-haute couture adala uhlobo olusha lobuhle obugqokekayo, obungenziwa."
Ngemva kokuphothula e-Istanbul Fashion Institute ngo-2014, u-Akyuz wafundela iziqu ze-masters ku-Menswear Design eMarangoni Academy eMilan. Wasebenzela i-Ermenegildo Zegna kanye ne-Costume National ngaphambi kokubuyela eTurkey ngo-2016 futhi wethula ilebula yakhe yezingubo zabesilisa ngo-2018.
Embukisweni wesithupha wesizini, u-Selen Akyuz wenze ifilimu eyaboniswa e-Soho House e-Istanbul naku-inthanethi: “Ifilimu, ngakho akuwona umbukiso wemfashini ngempela, kodwa ngicabanga ukuthi isasebenza. Futhi ithinta imizwa.”
Njengebhizinisi elincane langokwezifiso, i-Akyuz yakha kancane kancane isizinda samakhasimende samazwe ngamazwe, esinamakhasimende manje ase-US, Romania nase-Albania.”Angifuni ukungena ngaso sonke isikhathi, kodwa thatha kancane, igxathu negxathu, futhi uthathe indlela elinganisiwe,” esho.”Sikhiqiza yonke into etafuleni lami lokudlela. Akukho ukukhiqizwa ngobuningi. Ngenza cishe yonke into ngesandla” – okuhlanganisa ukwenza izikibha, izigqoko ezisele, izigqoko ze-Ongo ukuzijwayeza.
Le ndlela yokwehliselwa phansi idlulela kubalingani bakhe bokukhiqiza.”Esikhundleni sokusebenza nabakhiqizi abakhulu, bengilokhu ngifuna abathungi bezimpahla abancane bendawo ukuze basekele uhlobo lwami, kodwa kube nzima ukuthola abantu abaqeqeshiwe.Abenzi bezandla abasebenzisa amasu esintu kunzima ukuwathola – ukutholwa kwabasebenzi besizukulwane esilandelayo kunomkhawulo.
U-Gökhan Yavaş uthweswe iziqu e-DEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design ngo-2012 futhi wafunda e-IMA ngaphambi kokuthi ethule ilebula yakhe yezingubo zabesilisa zasemgwaqweni ngo-2017. Okwamanje uhlobo lusebenza nezinkampani ezifana ne-DHL.
Kule sizini, u-Gökhan Yavaş wethula ividiyo emfushane kanye nombukiso wemfashini - okokuqala ngqa eminyakeni emithathu. "Sikukhumbule ngempela - yisikhathi sokuphinde sikhulume nabantu. Sifuna ukuqhubeka senza imibukiso yemfashini ebonakalayo ngoba ku-Instagram, kuya kuba nzima ukuxhumana. Okuningi mayelana nokuhlangana nokuzwa kubantu ubuso nobuso," kusho umklami.
Lo mkhiqizo ubuyekeza umqondo wawo wokukhiqiza.”Siyekile ukusebenzisa isikhumba sangempela nesikhumba sangempela,” echaza, echaza ukuthi ukubukeka kweqoqo lokuqala kuhlanganiswe ngezikhafu ezenziwe kumaqoqo angaphambili.
Ukugxila kokusimama kufakazele inselele kumabhrendi, isithiyo sokuqala ukuthola izindwangu eziningi ze-millet kubahlinzeki. Inselele yesibili ababhekene nayo ukuvula isitolo eTurkey ukuze badayise izingubo zabesilisa, kuyilapho abathengi bendawo begxile ekwakhiweni kwezingubo zabesifazane zaseTurkey. Noma kunjalo, ngenkathi uhlobo luthengisa ngewebhusayithi yabo nezitolo zamazwe ngamazwe eCanada naseLondon, ukugxila kwabo okulandelayo yi-Asia - ikakhulukazi i-Korea ne-China.
Uhlobo lobuciko obugqokekayo i-Bashaques lwasungulwa ngo-2014 ngu-Başak Cankeş.Umkhiqizo uthengisa izingubo zokubhukuda kanye nama-kimono anetimu enobuciko.
"Imvamisa, ngenza ukusebenzisana kobuciko obugqokekayo," umqondisi wezobuciko u-Başak Cankeş etshela i-BoF ngemuva nje kokwethula iqoqo lakhe lakamuva ekubukweni kwedokhumenti yemizuzu engu-45 e-Soho House e-Istanbul.
Lo mbukiso uxoxa ngendaba yohambo lwakhe oluya ePeru naseColombia ukuze asebenze nezingcweti zabo, bamukele amaphethini nezimpawu ze-Anatolian, futhi “ababuze ukuthi bazizwa kanjani nge-Anatolian [amaphrinti]".
“Cishe amaphesenti angu-60 eqoqo liwucezu olulodwa nje, wonke alukwe ngesandla abesifazane basePeru nase-Anatolia,” usho kanje.
I-Cankeş ithengisela abaqoqi bezobuciko eTurkey futhi ifuna amakhasimende athile enze amaqoqo emnyuziyamu ngomsebenzi wakhe, echaza ukuthi "akanayo intshisekelo yokuba umkhiqizo womhlaba wonke ngoba kunzima ukuba wumkhiqizo womhlaba wonke nosimeme. Angifuni nokwenza noma yiliphi iqoqo lezingcezu eziyi-10 ngaphandle kwezingubo zokubhukuda noma ama-kimono. Iqoqo lobuciko eliguquguqukayo eliphelele esizolibona njenge-NFT mina ngokwami. umklami.”
I-Karma Collective imele ithalente elifufusayo le-Istanbul Moda Academy, eyasungulwa ngo-2007, ihlinzeka ngamadigri e-Fashion Design, Ubuchwepheshe Nokuthuthukiswa Komkhiqizo, Ukuphathwa Kwemfashini, kanye Nokuxhumana Kwemfashini Nemidiya.
"Inkinga enkulu enginayo yizimo zezulu, ngoba likhithikile emasontweni amabili edlule, ngakho-ke sinezinkinga eziningi nge-supply chain kanye nezindwangu zokuthola izinto," kusho u-Hakalmaz etshela i-BoF.Wadala iqoqo emasontweni amabili nje ngelebula yakhe ethi Alter Ego, eyethulwe njengengxenye yeqoqo le-Karma, futhi yakhelwe indlu yefashini i-Nocturne.
U-Hakalmaz naye akasasebenzisi izixazululo zobuchwepheshe ukuze asekele inqubo yakhe yokukhiqiza, ethi: “Angikuthandi ukusebenzisa ubuchwepheshe futhi ngiqhelelane nabo ngangokunokwenzeka ngoba ngincamela ukwenza umsebenzi wezandla ukuze ngihlale ngithintana nokwedlule.”