Nuhou a me ka Pai

No laila makemake ʻoe e kūʻai i mea hou, akā ʻaʻole ʻoe makemake e hāʻawi i nā stats weliweli maoli āu e ʻike ai i ka wā ʻo Googling "ka hopena o ke kaiapuni o ke ʻano." He aha kāu e hana ai.
Inā makemake ʻoe i ka hoʻomau ʻana, ua lohe paha ʻoe i kahi mana o kēia ʻōlelo: "ʻO ka ___ paʻa loa ka mea āu i loaʻa ai." ʻOiaʻiʻo, akā ʻaʻole pono i nā manawa a pau, ʻoi aku i ka wā e ulu ana nā Lole: Ke ʻano o nā ʻano, a me ke kālā, a makemake ʻoe e mālama a loaʻa i kahi mea hou ʻālohilohi.
ʻO ka mea maikaʻi aʻe e pili ana i ke komo ʻana i nā lole i loaʻa iā ʻoe, ʻo ia ka mea i kapa ʻia e ka ʻoihana hana "hoʻohana ʻike." Hoʻohui pinepine mākou i ke kumu kūʻai kiʻekiʻe me ke ʻano kiʻekiʻe, akā ʻaʻole ia ka hihia.
ʻO ka mea kūʻai aku ʻo Amanda Lee McCarty, ka mea nāna i hoʻokipa i ka podcast Clotheshorse, ua hana ʻo ia ma ke ʻano he mea kūʻai aku no nā makahiki he 15, ʻo ka hapa nui ma ka ʻoihana wikiwiki wikiwiki - noho ʻo ia i kāna mea i kapa ai ʻo "fast fashion" ka noho mua.
ʻO ka hopena, ʻōlelo ʻo McCarty, ʻo ke kūʻai ʻana i nā mea kiʻekiʻe a laila e hoʻolālā e kūʻai aku i ka hapa nui o ia mau mea ma ke kumukūʻai - ʻo ia hoʻi ke emi a haʻahaʻa nei nā kumukūʻai hana.
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo McCarty, ua paʻa ka mana i ka ʻoihana, a hiki i ka hōʻea ʻana i nā hōʻailona nani.
E koho i nā pulu maoli—ka pulupulu, ke olonā, ke kilika, ka hulu hipa, ka hemp, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe—ʻo ia ka mea e lōʻihi loa i loko o kou ʻaʻahu. ʻOiaʻiʻo, ua ʻike ʻia ʻo siliki ka lole lōʻihi loa e pili ana i kona manawa hoʻohana, a ukali ʻia e ka hulu hipa. ʻO ka hoʻohālikelike, ʻo ka polyester ka lōʻihi o ka lawelawe ʻana ma ka honua, e like me ka hōʻike i kēia makahiki.)
Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Erin Beatty, ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu iā Rentrayage, makemake ʻo ia i ka loaʻa ʻana o ka hemp a me ka jute no ka mea he mau mea kanu hou lākou.
No Rebecca Burgess, ka mea hoʻokumu a me ka luna o ka Fibershed nonprofit a me ka mea kākau pū o Fibershed: He Movement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, e pili ana i ka ʻimi e kākoʻo i nā kaiāulu mahiʻai kūloko, ʻoi aku ka lole i hana ʻia e US. ʻO nā fiber mua a mākou e hoʻopuka ai.
Aia kekahi ʻano o nā fibers ʻaʻole palaki akā ʻaʻole maoli maoli nō. he mea maikai.
I kēia mau lā, ua hoʻomaka ʻia ʻo Eco Vero - kahi fiber viscose e hoʻohana ana i kahi kaʻina hana ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ke kaiapuni a me ka liʻiliʻi o ka hopena - no laila ke hana ʻia nei kekahi mau hana e hoʻomaikaʻi i ka wāwae kalapona o kēia fiber semi-synthetic.
E ʻimi i nā lole kaiaola: ʻO nā kikoʻī o ka mea hana fiber - he liʻiliʻi a liʻiliʻi nā ala hoʻomau e hana ai i nā fiber maoli e like me ka pulupulu a me ka siliki, e like me nā fibers semi-synthetic biodegradable. manaʻo e ʻimi i ka GOTS a i ʻole Global Organic Textile Standard ka hōʻoia me nā koi kūlohelohe koʻikoʻi loa. I kā mākou e kamaʻilio nei, ke hana ʻia nei nā mea hou i nā lole plastik; no ka laʻana, "ka ʻili vegan" i hana mua ʻia mai nā plastic petroleum maʻemaʻe, akā ʻo nā mea hou e like me ka ʻili haʻi a me ka ʻili pineapple e hōʻike nui i ka ʻōlelo hoʻohiki.
ʻO Google kou hoaaloha: ʻAʻole nā ​​manaʻo a pau e hāʻawi i nā kikoʻī e pili ana i ka hana ʻana o ka lole, akā pono nā mea hana lole āpau e hoʻokomo i kahi lepili kūloko e wāwahi ana i ka fiber o ka lole ma ka pakeneka.
Inā hoʻololi mākou i ko mākou mau manaʻo a ʻike i ke kūʻai ʻana i nā jeans ma ke ʻano he hoʻokō makahiki a i ʻole kahi hoʻopukapuka kūpono, ma mua o ka makemake, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka mālama ʻana i nā mea a mākou e kūʻai ai a ʻaʻahu i kā mākou ponoʻī. ʻike i ka leʻaleʻa nui i ka lole.
Ua ʻae ʻo Beatty ʻo nā lole āu e ʻaʻahu ai i hoʻokahi a ʻelua paha ka pilikia: "E pili ana, he aha kēlā mau ʻāpana e wehewehe pinepine ai i kou nānā?" ʻO kekahi hapa o ia mea e noʻonoʻo ana i ka mālama ʻana i kahi ʻāpana lole ma mua o kou kūʻai ʻana; no ka laʻana, hiki ke hoʻomaʻemaʻe maloʻo wale nō? Inā ʻaʻohe mea hoʻomaʻemaʻe maloʻo eco-friendly ma kou wahi, ʻaʻole kūpono ke kūʻai ʻana i kēia huahana.
No McCarty, ma kahi o ke kūʻai ʻana me ka makemake, ua lawe ʻo ia i ka manawa e noʻonoʻo ai pehea a me kahi e kūpono ai ka ʻāpana i loko o kona ʻaʻahu.
I ka pau ʻana o ka Bill McKibben's "Eaarth," kekahi o nā puke maikaʻi loa aʻu i heluhelu ai e pili ana i ka pilikia o ke aniau, ua hoʻopau ʻo ia, ʻo ka mea nui, ʻo kā mākou e hiki mai ana ʻO ka wā e hiki mai ana ka hoʻi ʻana i kahi kumu hoʻokele waiwai liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi. e hoʻoikaika i nā mea ulu e mālama i koʻu wahi kūloko ma o kaʻu mau koho kūʻai.
ʻO Abrima Erwiah - ke kumu aʻoaʻo, ʻike loea hoʻomau a me ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu i ka Studio 189 - ke ʻano like. ʻOiai ʻo ia e kūʻai mai i nā hōʻailona hoʻomau nui e like me Eileen Fisher, Brother Vellies a me Mara Hoffman, makemake ʻo ia e ʻimi i nā ʻoihana liʻiliʻi ma uka o New York.
Ua pōmaikaʻi kāna hana i kēia manawa ma kona manawa manawaleʻa ma Ghana a noho pū me nā ʻohana, a ua kōkua iā ia e noʻonoʻo hou i ke ʻano o kāna kūʻai ʻana.
Ke hoʻāʻo ka brand e ʻimi i ke kumu maoli o kona mau lole a maopopo e pili ana i kāna mau hana, e hōʻike ana ia i nā waiwai kumu paʻa. e kamaʻilio me kekahi mea i loaʻa ka mana i nā hana ʻoihana. No ka brand ʻoi aku ka nui, inā nīnau pinepine ʻia nā limahana e pili ana i ka hoʻomau ʻana, i ka wā lōʻihi, e ʻike paha lākou he mea nui kēia o ka mea kūʻai aku a hana i nā loli.
ʻO ka hana hou ʻana kekahi o nā huaʻōlelo maʻamau i hoʻohana ʻia no ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe wikiwiki. "I kekahi manawa ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ʻaʻole e hoʻololi," wahi a Erwiah. "Inā he mau kapa ʻaʻahu, malia paha e pili ana i ka hoʻohana hou ʻana a hāʻawi iā ia i ke ola lua, ma mua o ka hoʻolilo ʻana i nā kumuwaiwai he nui i ka hana ʻana i kekahi mea ʻē aʻe.
I ka manawa i hoʻoholo ai ʻo Beatty e hoʻomaka i ka Rentrayage, ua kālele ʻo ia i ka hana hou ʻana i kāna mea i loaʻa mua, me ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā lole kahiko, nā lole make-stock, a me nā mea ʻē aʻe i hoʻolaha mua ʻia - e ʻimi mau ana ʻo ia i nā pōhaku, e like me kēlā mau T-shirts. ʻO ka hapa nui o kēia mau pālule he pulupulu pulupulu-polyester, akā, no ka mea, aia lākou, pono e hoʻolaha ʻia e like me nā lole no ka manawa lōʻihi e hiki ai, hoʻāʻo ʻo Beatty e hoʻohana hou iā lākou no ka mea ʻaʻole lākou e ʻelemakule.
I kekahi mau hihia, 'a'ole 'oe e loa'a mau i ka brand ethics a i 'ole ka fiber content i ka wā e kū'ai ai i nā mea i ho'ohana 'ia. Akā na'e, hā'awi i kahi hi'ohi'ona hou i ka lole e lana mua nei a puni ka honua a pau i ka ho'opa'a 'āina he koho mau.
ʻOiai ma nā hale kūʻai ʻelua, aia nā ala e loiloi ai i ka maikaʻi a me ka hiki mau loa, wahi a Caric. No ka denim, ua ʻōlelo ʻo Caric i ʻelua mau mea e nānā ai: Ua ʻoki ʻia ma ke ʻano, a ʻo nā humuhumu ʻelua o loko a me waho.
ʻO ke kūʻai ʻana i kahi ʻāpana lole e lawe i ke kuleana no ke ola o ka mea - ʻo ia hoʻi ke hele mākou i kēia mau mea āpau a kūʻai maoli iā ia, pono mākou e mālama pono iā ia. ka mīkini holoi. Inā hiki iā ʻoe, e pale i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka mea maloʻo holoʻokoʻa.
Manaʻo pū ʻo McCarty e heluhelu i ka lepili mālama i loko o ka ʻaʻahu. Ke kamaʻāina ʻoe i nā hōʻailona a me nā mea waiwai, e hoʻomaka ʻoe e ʻike i ka mea e pono e hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻia a me nā mea kūpono no ka holoi lima a maloʻo nā kūlana. i kou wa i waho o kou hohonu; i kekahi manawa, pono e hoʻokomo i ka hana ʻana. Ma hope o ka hoʻololi ʻana i ke kapa o kahi kapa ʻaʻahu waina, manaʻo ʻo McCarty e ʻaʻahu ʻo ia iā ia no nā makahiki he 20 e hiki mai ana.
ʻO kahi koho ʻē aʻe no ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i nā lole i hoʻoluʻu ʻia a ʻaʻahu ʻia paha: nā mea hoʻoluʻu.
Ma ka waiho ʻana i kāu leka uila, ʻae ʻoe i kā mākou ʻōlelo a me ka ʻōlelo pilikino a e loaʻa i nā leka uila mai iā mākou.
E hoʻohana ʻia kēia leka uila e komo i nā pūnaewele āpau o New York. Ma ka waiho ʻana i kāu leka uila, ʻae ʻoe i kā mākou ʻōlelo a me nā kulekele pilikino a e loaʻa i nā leka uila mai iā mākou.
Ma ke ʻano he ʻāpana o kāu moʻokāki, e loaʻa iā ʻoe nā mea hou a me nā makana mai New York a hiki iā ʻoe ke haʻalele i kēlā me kēia manawa.
E hoʻohana ʻia kēia leka uila e komo i nā pūnaewele āpau o New York. Ma ka waiho ʻana i kāu leka uila, ʻae ʻoe i kā mākou ʻōlelo a me nā kulekele pilikino a e loaʻa i nā leka uila mai iā mākou.
Ma ke ʻano he ʻāpana o kāu moʻokāki, e loaʻa iā ʻoe nā mea hou a me nā makana mai New York a hiki iā ʻoe ke haʻalele i kēlā me kēia manawa.