Nuhou a me ka Pai

I kēia kau, ua kū ka ʻoihana ʻoihana Turkish i nā pilikia he nui, mai ka pilikia Covid-19 a me ka hakakā geopolitical i nā ʻāina e pili ana, i ka hoʻomau ʻana i nā kaulahao hoʻolako, nā ʻano anuanu o ke anuanu e hoʻopau ana i ka hana a me ka pilikia o ka ʻāina, e like me ka ʻike ʻia i ka pilikia kālā o Turkey e like me ka UK's Financial Times. Ua hōʻike ka Times i ka piʻi ʻana o ka inflation i 20 mau makahiki kiʻekiʻe o 54% i Malaki i kēia makahiki.
ʻOiai ʻo kēia mau pilikia, ua hoʻokumu ʻia nā talena hoʻolālā Turkish i hōʻike i ka ikaika a me ka manaʻo maikaʻi ma Istanbul Fashion Week i kēia kau, e lawe koke i kahi hui o nā hanana a hōʻike i nā hoʻolālā e hoʻonui a hōʻoia i ko lākou noho honua i kēia kau.
ʻO nā hana kino ma nā wahi mōʻaukala e like me ka hale aliʻi ʻo Ottoman a me ka hale pule Crimean 160-makahiki e hoʻi i ka papa kuhikuhi, i hoʻopili ʻia me nā makana kikohoʻe interactive, a me nā hōʻikeʻike hou i wehe ʻia, nā kūkākūkā panel a me nā pop-up ma ka Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
ʻO nā mea hoʻonohonoho hanana - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association a i ʻole İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) a me Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - ua hui pū me Istanbul Soho House e hoʻolako i nā kamaʻāina me kahi ʻike screening ola a me nā kipa ma o nā lālā ʻoihana hoʻolaha ola.
Ma Istanbul, ua ʻike ʻia ka manaʻo o ka ikehu hou i ka hoʻoulu ʻana a me ka nānā ʻana i nā hana kino i ka hui pū ʻana o nā poʻe i ko lākou mau kaiāulu i ke kino i nā kūlana climatic.
"Makemake mākou i ka hui pū ʻana," wahi a ka mea hoʻolālā lole kāne ʻo Niyazi Erdoğan.
Ma lalo iho nei, hui ʻo BoF i nā mea hoʻolālā e puka mai ana a hoʻokumu ʻia i kā lākou Fashion Week hanana a me nā hanana e ʻike ai pehea i ulu ai kā lākou hoʻolaha a me nā hoʻolālā brand ma Istanbul i kēia kau.
Ua aʻo ʻia ʻo Şansım Adalı ma Brussels ma mua o ka hoʻokumu ʻana iā Sudi Etuz. ʻO ka mea hoʻolālā, nāna i hoʻokūkū i ke ala kikohoʻe-mua, ke kālele nui nei i kāna ʻoihana kikohoʻe i kēia lā a me ka hoʻohaʻahaʻa ʻana i kāna ʻoihana textile.
Hoʻokipa ʻo Şansım Adalı i kāna hōʻikeʻike ma ka Crimea Memorial Church kokoke i Galata ma Istanbul, kahi i hoʻohālikelike ʻia ai kāna mau hoʻolālā kikohoʻe i nā avatar digital a hōʻike ʻia ma ka pale 8-kapuaʻi.
"He ʻike ʻokoʻa loa kēia, ʻo ka loaʻa ʻana o kahi hōʻike kikohoʻe ma kahi kahua kūkulu kahiko," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia iā BoF.
Hoʻopili ka hōʻike kikohoʻe i ka hana keaka ola, a ʻaʻahu ka mea mele i kekahi o nā lole kino liʻiliʻi i hana ʻia e Adal i kēia lā - akā ʻo ka hapa nui, manaʻo ʻo Sudi Etuz e mālama i ka manaʻo kikohoʻe.
"ʻO kaʻu mau hoʻolālā e hiki mai ana ʻo ka mālama liʻiliʻi ʻana i ka ʻaoʻao textile o kaʻu brand no ka mea ʻaʻole wau e manaʻo e pono ka honua i kahi hōʻailona ʻē aʻe no ka hana nui. Ke nānā aku nei au i nā papahana kikohoʻe. He hui koʻu o nā ʻenekini kamepiula, nā mea hana kiʻi kiʻi a me nā mea pena lole.
Ua neʻe ʻo Gökay Gündoğdu i New York e aʻo i ka hoʻokele brand ma mua o ke komo ʻana i ka Domus Academy ma Milan i ka makahiki 2007. Ua hana ʻo Gündoğdu ma Italia ma mua o ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana i kāna inoa lole wahine TAGG ma 2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu.Stockists me Luisa Via Roma a me kāna pūnaewele e-commerce, i hoʻokuʻu ʻia i ka wā maʻi maʻi.
Hōʻike ʻo TAGG i ka hōʻiliʻili o kēia kau ma ke ʻano o kahi hōʻike hōʻikeʻike digitally augmented museum: "Hoʻohana mākou i nā code QR a me ka ʻoiaʻiʻo i hoʻonui ʻia e nānā i nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni ola e puka mai ana i waho o nā pale - nā ʻano wikiō o nā kiʻi paʻi, e like me kahi hōʻikeʻike kiʻi," wahi a Gündoğdu iā BoF.
"ʻAʻole wau he kanaka kikohoʻe," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia, akā i ka wā o ka maʻi maʻi, "ʻo nā mea a pau a mākou e hana ai he digital. Hana mākou i kā mākou pūnaewele i ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi a maʻalahi hoʻi e hoʻomaopopo. Aia mākou ma [wholesale management platform] Ua hōʻike ʻo Joor i ka hōʻiliʻili ma 2019 a loaʻa i nā mea kūʻai hou a me nā mea kūʻai hou ma US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait.
ʻOiai ʻo kona kūleʻa, ʻo ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana i ka TAGG ma nā moʻolelo honua i kēia kau he mea paʻakikī.
Ua hoʻopilikia pū ka pilikia hoʻokele waiwai i kāna mau hōʻiliʻili i kēia kau: "Ke nalowale nei ka Turkish lira, no laila ke kumukūʻai nui loa nā mea a pau. Paʻa ka lawe ʻana i nā lole mai nā ʻāina ʻē mai. ʻO ka hopena, ua hui pū nā mea hoʻolālā i nā lole i lawe ʻia mai Italia a me Farani.
Ua hoʻokumu ʻo Creative Director Yakup Bicer i kāna brand Y Plus, he brand unisex, ma 2019 ma hope o 30 mau makahiki i ka ʻoihana hoʻolālā Turkish. Ua hoʻomaka ʻo Y Plus ma London Fashion Week i Pepeluali 2020.
ʻO ka hōʻiliʻili kikohoʻe o Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 hōʻiliʻili ʻia e nā "mea hoʻokalakupua ʻole inoa ʻole a me kā lākou mau mea pale i ka manaʻo crypto-anarchist" a hōʻike i ka ʻōlelo o ka pale ʻana i ke kūʻokoʻa politika ma nā paepae media.
"Makemake au e hoʻomau i ka hōʻike ʻana no kekahi manawa," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo ia iā BoF. "E like me kā mākou i hana ai i ka wā ma mua, ʻo ka lawe ʻana i nā mea kūʻai aku i ka wā fashion week he mea nui ka manawa a me ke kaumaha kālā.
Ma waho aʻe o ka ʻenehana, ke hoʻohana nei ʻo Bicer i ka hana kūloko e lanakila ai i ka hoʻopau ʻana i nā kaulahao lako - a i ka hana ʻana, manaʻolana e hoʻopuka i nā hana hoʻomau hou aʻe.
Ua hoʻokumu ʻo Ece lāua ʻo Ayse Ege i kā lāua brand Dice Kayek ma 1992. Ua hana mua ʻia ma Paris, ua hui pū ka brand me ka Fédération Française de la Couture ma 1994 a ua loaʻa iā ia ka makana Jameel Prize III, he makana honua no nā hana kiʻi a me ka hoʻolālā i hoʻoulu ʻia e nā kuʻuna Islam, i ka makahiki 2013.
Ua hōʻike ʻo nā kaikuahine o Dice Kayek ʻo Ece lāua ʻo Ayse Ege i kā lākou hōʻiliʻili i ke wikiō kiʻiʻoniʻoni i kēia kau - he ʻano kikohoʻe a lākou i kamaʻāina i kēia manawa, ke hana nei lākou i nā kiʻiʻoniʻoni kiʻiʻoniʻoni mai ka makahiki 2013. Wehe a hoʻi i laila. Ua ʻoi aku ka waiwai.
I kēia lā, kūʻai aku ʻo Dice Kayek i ka honua ma ʻEulopa, ka US, Middle East a me Kina. Ma o kā lākou hale kūʻai ma Palisa, ua hoʻokaʻawale lākou i ka ʻike o nā mea kūʻai aku ma o ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā kuʻuna Turkish ma ke ʻano he hoʻolālā kūʻai kūʻai ʻike.
Ua holo mua nā kaikuahine i kā lākou ʻoihana mai Palika ma mua o ka neʻe ʻana i Istanbul, kahi i hoʻopili ʻia ai kā lākou studio i ka hale hōʻikeʻike o Beaumonti. Ua hoʻokomo piha ʻo Dice Kayek i kā lākou ʻoihana a ʻike i ka hana ʻana i ʻoi aku ka waiwai, "he mea hiki ʻole iā mākou ke hana i ka wā e hana ana mākou i kahi hale hana ʻē aʻe." I ka lawe ʻana i ka hana i loko o ka hale, ua manaʻo nā kaikuahine i kākoʻo ʻia ka hana hana Turkish a mālama ʻia i kāna hōʻiliʻili.
ʻO Niyazi Erdoğan ka mea nāna i hoʻokumu i ka Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 a me ka Hope Pelekikena o ka Turkish Fashion Designers Association, a he kumu aʻo ma ka Istanbul Fashion Academy.
Ua hōʻike ʻo Niyazi Erdoğan i kāna hōʻiliʻili kāne kāne i kēia kau: "Ke hana nei mākou a pau i ka digitally i kēia manawa - hōʻike mākou i ka Metaverse a i ʻole NFTs. Ke kūʻai aku nei mākou i ka hōʻiliʻili ma ke kikohoʻe a me ke kino, e hele ana ma nā ʻaoʻao ʻelua. Makemake mākou e hoʻomākaukau no ka wā e hiki mai ana, "i ʻōlelo ʻo ia iā BoF.
Eia nō naʻe, no ka wā e hiki mai ana, ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia, "Manaʻo wau e loaʻa iā mākou kahi hōʻike kino. ʻO ka fashion e pili ana i ke kaiāulu a me ka manaʻo, a makemake nā poʻe e hui pū. No ka poʻe noʻonoʻo, pono mākou i kēia."
I ka wā o ka maʻi maʻi, ua hana ka brand i kahi hale kūʻai pūnaewele a hoʻololi i kā lākou hōʻiliʻili i lilo i "kūʻai maikaʻi" ma ka pūnaewele, me ka noʻonoʻo ʻana i nā loli o ka makemake o nā mea kūʻai aku i ka wā maʻi maʻi.
Ma ke ʻano he kumu aʻo ma ka IMA, ke aʻo mau nei ʻo Erdogan mai ka hanauna e hiki mai ana. "No ka hanauna e like me Alpha, inā ʻoe i ke ʻano, pono ʻoe e maopopo iā lākou.
He haumāna puka ʻo Istituto Marangoni, ua hana ʻo Nihan Peker no nā hui e like me Frankie Morello, Colmar a me Furla ma mua o ka hoʻokumu ʻana i kāna lepili inoa ma 2012, e hoʻolālā ana i nā hōʻiliʻili mākaukau, nā wahine mare a me nā couture.
I ka hoʻolauleʻa ʻana i ka makahiki 10 o ka brand i kēia kau, ua hana ʻo Nihan Peker i kahi hōʻikeʻike kiʻi ma Çırağan Palace, kahi hale aliʻi Ottoman kahiko i hoʻohuli ʻia mai kahi hōkele e nānā pono ana i ka Bosphorus.
"Ua liʻuliʻu wau e hōʻoia iaʻu iho i koʻu ʻāina," i hoʻohui ai ʻo Peker, ka mea i noho mua i kēia kau me nā mea kaulana Turkish e hoʻohana ana i nā hoʻolālā mai kāna mau hōʻiliʻili mua.
"Pono nā mea hoʻolālā Turkish a pau e noʻonoʻo e pili ana i nā pilikia o ko mākou ʻāina i kēlā me kēia manawa. ʻO ka ʻoiaʻiʻo, ma ke ʻano he ʻāina, pono mākou e hoʻoponopono i nā pilikia pili i ka pilikanaka a me ka politika, no laila e nalowale mākou a pau i ka manawa.
Ma hope o kona puka 'ana mai Istanbul Fashion Institute ma 2014, ua a'o 'o Akyuz no ke kēkelē laepua ma Menswear Design ma ka Marangoni Academy ma Milan.
I ke ono o ka hōʻike ʻana o ke kau, ua hana ʻo Selen Akyuz i kahi kiʻiʻoniʻoni i hoʻopaʻa ʻia ma Soho House ma Istanbul a ma ka pūnaewele: "He kiʻiʻoniʻoni ia, no laila ʻaʻole ia he hōʻike kiʻiʻoniʻoni, akā manaʻo wau e hana mau ana.
Ma ke ʻano he ʻoihana maʻamau liʻiliʻi, ke kūkulu mālie nei ʻo Akyuz i kahi waihona liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi o ka honua, me nā mea kūʻai aku i kēia manawa ma US, Romania a me Albania.
Hoʻopili ʻia kēia ala hoʻohaʻahaʻa i kāna mau hoa hana.” Ma kahi o ka hana pū ʻana me nā mea hana nui, ua ʻimi au i nā humuhumu liʻiliʻi liʻiliʻi e kākoʻo i kaʻu brand, akā paʻakikī ka loaʻa ʻana o nā moho kūpono.
Ua puka 'o Gökhan Yavaş mai ka DEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design i ka makahiki 2012 a ua a'o ma IMA ma mua o ka ho'omaka 'ana i kāna lepili lole kāne alanui ma 2017. Ke hana nei ka brand me nā hui e like me DHL.
I kēia kau, hōʻike ʻo Gökhan Yavaş i kahi wikiō pōkole a me kahi hōʻike kiʻi lole - kāna mua i ʻekolu makahiki.
Ke hōʻano hou nei ka brand i kāna manaʻo hana. "Ua ho'ōki mākou i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻili maoli a me ka ʻili maoli," wehewehe ʻo ia, me ka wehewehe ʻana ua hui pū ʻia nā hiʻohiʻona ʻekolu o ka hōʻiliʻili mai nā scarves i hana ʻia i nā hōʻiliʻili mua.
He mea paʻakikī ka manaʻo hoʻomau no nā brand, a ʻo ka pilikia mua ka loaʻa ʻana o nā lole millet mai nā mea hoʻolako mai. ʻO ka lua o ka paʻakikī a lākou e kū nei, ʻo ia ka wehe ʻana i kahi hale kūʻai ma Turkey e kūʻai aku i nā lole kāne, ʻoiai ka poʻe kūʻai kūloko e kālele ana i ka māhele hoʻolālā lole wahine Turkish.
Ua hoʻokumu ʻia ʻo Bashaques brand wearable ma 2014 e Başak Cankeş. Ke kūʻai aku nei ka brand i nā lole ʻauʻau a me nā kimono me kāna hana kiʻi.
"ʻO ka maʻamau, hana wau i nā hana hana hana me nā ʻāpana kiʻi hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia," i haʻi aku ai ka luna hoʻomohala ʻo Başak Cankeş iā BoF ma hope koke o ka hōʻike ʻana i kāna hōʻiliʻili hou loa i kahi hōʻike palapala palapala 45 mau minuke ma Soho House ma Istanbul.
Hōʻike ka hōʻikeʻike i ka moʻolelo o kāna huakaʻi i Peru a me Kolombia e hana pū me kā lākou poʻe akamai, e hoʻohana ana i nā mamana Anatolian a me nā hōʻailona, ​​​​a "e nīnau ana iā lākou pehea ko lākou manaʻo e pili ana i Anatolian [paʻi]".
"Ma kahi o 60 pakeneka o ka hōʻiliʻili he ʻāpana hoʻokahi wale nō, i ulana lima ʻia e nā wahine ma Peru a me Anatolia," wahi āna.
Ke kūʻai aku nei ʻo Cankeş i nā mea hōʻiliʻili kiʻi ma Turkey a makemake i kekahi mau mea kūʻai aku e hana i nā hōʻiliʻili hale hōʻikeʻike mai kāna hana, me ka wehewehe ʻana "ʻaʻole makemake ʻo ia e lilo i brand honua no ka mea paʻakikī ke lilo i brand honua a hoʻomau.
ʻO ka Karma Collective e hōʻike ana i ke kālena e puka mai ana o Istanbul Moda Academy, i hoʻokumu ʻia ma 2007, e hāʻawi ana i nā degere ma Fashion Design, Technology and Product Development, Fashion Management, a me Fashion Communication and Media.
"ʻO ka pilikia nui i loaʻa iaʻu ʻo ke ʻano o ke aniau, no ka mea, ua hau no nā pule ʻelua i hala iho nei, no laila ua nui nā pilikia o mākou me ke kaulahao lako a me ka hoʻoulu ʻana i nā lole," i ʻōlelo ai ʻo Hakalmaz iā BoF.
ʻAʻole hoʻi ʻo Hakalmaz e hoʻohana hou ana i nā ʻenehana loea e kākoʻo i kāna kaʻina hana, me ka ʻōlelo ʻana: "ʻAʻole wau makemake i ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka ʻenehana a haʻalele iā ia i ka mea hiki loa no ka mea ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hana lima e hoʻomau i ka pilina me ka wā i hala."