Nkhani ndi Press

Chifukwa chake mukufuna kugula chinthu chatsopano, koma simukufuna kuchita nawo ziwerengero zowopsa zomwe mumapeza mu Googling "zachilengedwe pamafashoni." Mumatani
Ngati mukufuna kukhazikika, mwina mudamvapo mawu akuti: "Yokhazikika ___ ndi yomwe muli nayo kale." Zoona, koma osati nthawi zonse zothandiza, makamaka pamene Zovala: Masitayelo akusintha, momwemonso ndalama, ndipo mukufuna kupitiriza ndi kukhala ndi chinthu chatsopano chonyezimira.
Chotsatira chabwino kwambiri chokhudza kuvala zovala zomwe muli nazo kale ndi zomwe makampani opanga mafashoni amatcha "kugula mwachidziwitso." Nthawi zambiri timagwirizanitsa kukwera mtengo ndi khalidwe lapamwamba, koma sizili choncho.
Wogula mafashoni Amanda Lee McCarty, yemwe amayendetsa podcast ya Clotheshorse, wakhala akugwira ntchito ngati wogula kwa zaka zoposa 15, makamaka m'makampani othamanga kwambiri-amakhala ndi zomwe amazitcha kuti "mafashoni ofulumira" pampando wakutsogolo.
Njira yothetsera vutoli, McCarty adati, ndikugula zinthu zamtengo wapatali ndiyeno kukonzekera kugulitsa zambiri pamtengo wotsika - kutanthauza kuti ndalama zopangira zinthu zikutsika kwambiri.
McCarty adanena kuti chikokacho chafalikira m'makampani, ngakhale kufika ku mafashoni apamwamba. Ndicho chifukwa chake lero, "kuyika ndalama" sikuli kophweka monga kugula chinthu chamtengo wapatali.Ngakhale zili choncho, si aliyense amene angagwiritse ntchito ndalama zambiri pa chovala, ndipo ngakhalenso mitundu yambiri yokhazikika sizing.So, tiyenera kuyang'ana chiyani?
Sankhani ulusi wachilengedwe - thonje, bafuta, silika, ubweya, hemp, ndi zina - zomwe zizikhala nthawi yayitali mu zovala zanu. Mwachindunji, silika adapezeka kuti ndi nsalu yolimba kwambiri potengera nthawi yake yogwiritsira ntchito, yotsatiridwa ndi ubweya. Izi ndichifukwa choti nsaluzi zimakhalanso ndi nthawi yayitali kwambiri pakati pa zochapira, zomwe zimawathandiza kuti azikhala bwino. poliyesitala idzakhala yotalika kwambiri padziko lapansi, malinga ndi lipoti la chaka chino.)
Erin Beatty, woyambitsa Rentrayage, adati amakonda kupeza hemp ndi jute chifukwa ndi mbewu zongowonjezedwanso.
Kwa Rebecca Burgess, woyambitsa ndi director of nonprofit Fibershed and co-author of Fibershed: A Movement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, akufunafuna kuthandiza alimi akumaloko, makamaka nsalu zopangidwa ndi US. Ubweya ndiye ulusi woyamba womwe timapanga ndikanalimbikitsa ulusi uliwonse wachilengedwe womwe umakhala wokhudzana ndi bioregion.
Palinso kalasi ya ulusi kuti si pulasitiki koma si mwachilengedwenso. chinthu.
Posachedwapa, Eco Vero - ulusi wa viscose wogwiritsa ntchito njira yosamalira zachilengedwe komanso yocheperako - idayambitsidwa - kotero njira zina zikuchitidwa kuti zithandizire kuwongolera mpweya wa semi-synthetic fiber iyi.
Yang'anani nsalu zachilengedwe: Tsatanetsatane wa zinthu zopangira ulusi - pali njira zochepa zokhazikika zopangira ulusi wachilengedwe monga thonje ndi silika, monganso ulusi wopangidwa ndi biodegradable semisynthetic fibers. kuyang'ana GOTS kapena Global Organic Textile Standard certification yokhala ndi zofunikira kwambiri zachilengedwe. mwachitsanzo, "chikopa cha vegan" chakhala chikupangidwa kale kuchokera ku mapulasitiki opangidwa ndi petroleum, koma zipangizo zamakono monga chikopa cha bowa ndi chinanazi zimasonyeza lonjezo lalikulu.
Google ndi bwenzi lanu: Si mitundu yonse yomwe imapereka tsatanetsatane wa momwe nsalu imapangidwira, koma opanga zovala ayenera kukhala ndi chizindikiro chamkati chomwe chimaphwanya ulusi wa chovalacho ndi peresenti.Kate Caric wa kampani ya zovala zokhazikika ku London akuwonetsa kuti mitundu yambiri - makamaka mafashoni othamanga - amasokoneza dala zolemba zawo.Pulasitiki imayenda ndi mawu ambiri kuti musadziwe bwino' google.
Ngati tisintha malingaliro athu ndikuwona kugula ma jeans ngati kudzipereka kwazaka zambiri kapena ndalama zopindulitsa, m'malo mongofuna, titha kusunga zomwe timagula ndi kuvala zomwe tili nazo. Atatha kuunikanso malamulo ogula, Caric akuti, amaika patsogolo zovala zomwe zimamupangitsa kukhala wosangalala - kuphatikiza mayendedwe. zosangalatsa zambiri pa zovala Ndi zomwe timachita tsiku lililonse ndipo ziyenera kumva bwino.
Beatty akuvomereza kuti zovala zimene mumavala kamodzi kapena kaŵiri ndi vuto: “Zikunenadi, kodi ndi zidutswa ziti zimene zingasonyeze maonekedwe ako mobwerezabwereza?” Zina mwa izo ndikuganizira momwe mungasamalire chovala musanachigule; mwachitsanzo, kodi ndi youma yokhayokha? Ngati m'dera lanu mulibe zotsuka zosagwiritsa ntchito zachilengedwe, sizingakhale zomveka kugula mankhwalawa.
Kwa McCarty, m'malo mongogula mwachidwi, adatenga nthawi kuti aganizire momwe chidutswacho chidzakwanira komanso malo ake mu zovala zake.
Pamapeto a Bill McKibben's "Earth," limodzi mwa mabuku oyembekezera kwambiri omwe ndawerengapo onena za vuto la nyengo, akumaliza kuti, makamaka, mtsogolo mwathu Tsogolo ndilobwereranso ku chikhalidwe chochepa kwambiri chachuma.Burgess amavomereza kuti: kukhalabe m'deralo ndi chinsinsi cha kugula kosatha. alimi kuti asamalire malo akudera langa posankha zogula.”
Abrima Erwiah - pulofesa, katswiri wamafashoni okhazikika komanso woyambitsa nawo Studio 189 - amatengeranso njira yofananira.
Ntchito yomwe amagwira tsopano imapindula chifukwa cha nthawi yake yodzipereka ku Ghana ndi kukhala ndi achibale, zomwe zamuthandiza kuganiziranso mmene amagulitsira zinthu. Kugwirizana kwake kwambiri ndi akatswiri a zovala kwamuthandiza kumvetsa mmene zinthu zonse kuyambira pa famu mpaka zovala zimayenderana.” M’malo ngati Ghana amene ali ndi zinthu zambiri zakale, mumazindikira zimene zimachitika ngati simufunanso zinthu zanu.”
Ngati mukugula zinthu payekha, Erwiah akunena kuti ndi bwino kufunsa mafunso okhudza makhalidwe ake abwino komanso okhazikika. Iyi ndi imodzi mwa njira zabwino kwambiri zodziwonera nokha ngati zovala zawo ndizoyenera kugulitsa. Mukulankhula ndi munthu yemwe ali ndi chikoka pazamalonda. Kwa mtundu wokulirapo, ngati ogwira ntchito amafunsidwa pafupipafupi za kukhazikika, pakapita nthawi, amatha kuzindikira kuti izi ndizofunikira kwa makasitomala ndikupanga zosintha. M'malo mwake, kugula zambiri tsopano kumachitika pa intaneti.Zomwe Caric anali kuyang'ana zinali ngati mtundu umayendera mafakitale ake komanso ngati adaphatikizanso zambiri patsamba lawo za momwe adalipira antchito awo.
Kubwezeretsanso ndi amodzi mwa mawu odziwika omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kuyeretsa mafashoni mwachangu. Makamaka poliyesitala yobwezerezedwanso ikhoza kukhala yovuta. Koma malinga ndi Erwiah, zonse zimatengera kapangidwe kake ndi cholinga. Iye amatchula za cradle to cradle philosophy.Ndikwabwino kusandutsa mabotolo apulasitiki kukhala zovala zochitira masewera olimbitsa thupi, koma amasanduka chiyani pambuyo pake? “Nthaŵi zina ndi bwino kusasintha,” anatero Erwiah.” Ngati ndi mathalauza a thukuta, mwina n’kungowagwiritsanso ntchito n’kuwapatsa moyo wachiwiri, m’malo mogwiritsa ntchito ndalama zambiri popanga chinthu china.
Pamene Beatty anaganiza zoyambitsa Rentrayage, anaika maganizo ake pa kukonzanso zinthu zimene anali nazo kale, pogwiritsa ntchito zovala zakale, nsalu zakufa, ndi zinthu zina zimene zinali zitayamba kufalitsidwa—anali kufunafuna miyala yamtengo wapatali, monga ma T-shirt amtundu umodzi aja.” Chimodzi mwa zinthu zoipitsitsa kwambiri m’chilengedwe ndi ma t-shirt awa ovala limodzi amene anapangidwira mpikisano wothamangawu womwe anapangira mpikisano wothamanga kwambiri umenewu.” wokongola." Ambiri mwa ma t-shirts ndi osakaniza a thonje-polyester, koma popeza alipo kale, ayenera kufalitsidwa ngati zovala kwa nthawi yayitali, Beatty amayesa kuwagwiritsanso ntchito chifukwa samakalamba mwamsanga.
Nthawi zina, sikuti nthawi zonse mumapeza zolemba zamtundu kapena ngakhale zomwe zili ndi fiber pogula zinthu zomwe zagwiritsidwa ntchito.
Ngakhale m'masitolo ogulitsa zinthu zakale, pali njira zowunika momwe zinthu ziliri komanso kuthekera kosatha, Caric adati. Kwa denim, Caric akunena zinthu ziwiri zofunika kuziyang'ana: Zimadulidwa pa selvedge, ndipo mkati ndi kunja kwa seams ndi zomangika kawiri.Izi ndi njira zonse zolimbikitsira zovala kuti zikhale nthawi yayitali zisanafunike kukonzedwa.
Kugula chovala kumaphatikizapo kutenga udindo wa moyo wa chinthucho - zomwe zikutanthauza kuti titadutsa zonsezi ndikuzigula, tikuyenera kuzisamalira bwino, makamaka ndi nsalu zopangira, zochapira zimakhala zovuta. Sefa ya makina ochapira anu.Ngati mungathe, peŵani kugwiritsa ntchito choumitsira chonse.” Mukakayikira, chotsani ndi kuumitsa mpweya.Ndi chinthu chabwino kwambiri chimene mungachite,” anatero Beatty.
McCarty amalimbikitsanso kuwerenga chizindikiro cha chisamaliro mkati mwa chovalacho.Mukadziwa zizindikiro ndi zipangizo, mudzayamba kudziwa zomwe ziyenera kutsukidwa ndi zomwe zili zoyenera kusamba m'manja / mpweya wouma.McCarty amalimbikitsanso kugula bukhu la Heloise la "Handy Household Hints", lomwe nthawi zambiri amawona m'masitolo ogulitsa ndalama zosachepera $ 5, ndi kukonzanso njira zophunzirira, ndi kukonzanso njira zopangira pulasitiki. maenje.Ndipo, dziwani pamene mwatuluka mwakuya kwanu; nthawi zina, ndi ofunika ndalama mu tailoring.Atasintha akalowa cha mpesa odula, McCarty amakhulupirira iye adzakhala atavala izo kwa zaka zosachepera 20.
Njira inanso yosinthira zovala zotayidwa kapena zotha: utoto.” Musamapeputse mphamvu ya utoto wakuda,” anatero Beatty.” Ichi ndi chinsinsi chinanso.
Potumiza imelo yanu, mukuvomereza zomwe tikufuna komanso zinsinsi zathu komanso kulandira maimelo kuchokera kwa ife.
Imelo iyi idzagwiritsidwa ntchito polowera ku malo onse a New York.Potumiza imelo yanu, mukuvomereza zomwe tikufuna komanso mfundo zachinsinsi komanso kulandira maimelo kuchokera kwa ife.
Monga gawo la akaunti yanu, mudzalandira zosintha zaposachedwa ndi zotsatsa kuchokera ku New York ndipo mutha kutuluka nthawi iliyonse.
Imelo iyi idzagwiritsidwa ntchito polowera ku malo onse a New York.Potumiza imelo yanu, mukuvomereza zomwe tikufuna komanso mfundo zachinsinsi komanso kulandira maimelo kuchokera kwa ife.
Monga gawo la akaunti yanu, mudzalandira zosintha zaposachedwa ndi zotsatsa kuchokera ku New York ndipo mutha kutuluka nthawi iliyonse.