Nkhani ndi Press

Sid Vicious sangakhulupirire kuti zovala zake zakale zinali zamtengo wapatali komanso kuti anthu achinyengo amatha kuyesetsa kuti aziwanyenga.
Osati kale kwambiri, wolemba mbiri wa chikhalidwe cha pop ku London Paul Gorman, wolemba The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, ndi wogulitsa Rock Fashion Paul Gorman adapeza chidutswa cha Marr. Shirt lolembedwa ndi Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, cha m'ma 1977, kuti aunike.
Zapangidwa kuchokera ku muslin ndipo zimakhala ndi chithunzi chodziwika nthawi yomweyo ndi wojambula Jamie Reid chifukwa cha manja a Sex Pistols '"Anarchy in the UK" single.
Ngati ziri zoona, zidzatenga mtengo wokongola pa malonda. Pa malonda a Bonhams mu May, 1977 Mr. McLaren ndi Ms. Westwood parachute malaya anagulitsidwa $ 6,660, pamodzi ndi osowa mohair sweti wakuda ndi wofiira wokongoletsedwa ndi chigaza ndi crossbones ndi "Sex "Pistols" 688 $ 800 "Sex Pistols" No.
Komabe, a Gorman sanakhulupirire kuti malaya omwe amawunika ndi omwe mwiniwakeyo adanena.
A Gorman anati: “M’malo ena, Chisilamu n’chachikale.” Koma kwina, nsaluyo inali idakali yatsopano kwambiri. Atafunsidwa za chiyambi chake, wogulitsayo adachotsa chidutswacho m'nyumba yogulitsirayo ndikuti adagulitsidwa mwamseri .
Takulandilani kudziko lodabwitsa komanso lopindulitsa la punk yabodza. Pazaka 30 zapitazi, amadzinamizira kuti adapangidwa ndi manja ndi mapangidwe apachiyambi omwe amaphatikiza S-ndi-M ndi zithunzi zonyansa, mabala atsopano ndi zingwe, machitidwe ochulukirapo ankhondo, ma tweeds ndi latex - Sid Vicious ndi anzawo ku Anarchy
“Ndimalandira maimelo angapo mwezi uliwonse kundifunsa ngati chinachake chiri chenicheni,” anatero Steven Philip, wosunga zakale za mafashoni, wosonkhanitsa ndi mlangizi.” Ine sindichita nawo kanthu, chifukwa anthu akugula golide wa zitsiru.
Kwa theka la zaka, Mr McLaren ndi Ms Westwood adatsegula malo awo ogulitsira malonda, Let It Rock, ku 430 King's Road, London. Sitoloyo, yomwe tsopano imadziwika kuti Worlds End, ndi malo obadwirako mafashoni a mumsewu.Eni ake ndi okonza omwe adalongosola zochitika za punk.
Kwa zaka 10 zotsatira, sitoloyo inasinthidwa kukhala Sex and Seditionaries, kuwonetsa maonekedwe ndi phokoso lomwe linali ndi zotsatira zambiri ndipo kotero linali losatheka kusonkhanitsa.
Dior ndi Fendi wotsogolera zojambulajambula, Kim Jones, ali ndi ntchito yambiri yoyambirira ndipo amakhulupirira kuti "Westwood ndi McLaren adapanga ndondomeko ya zovala zamakono. Iwo anali amasomphenya," akutero.
Malo ambiri osungiramo zinthu zakale amasonkhanitsanso zinthu izi.Michael Costiff, socialite, wopanga mkati ndi woyang'anira World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, anali kasitomala woyambirira wa Mr. McLaren ndi Ms. Westwood. Zovala za 178 zomwe anasonkhanitsa ndi mkazi wake, Gerlinde, tsopano zili m'gulu la Museum of Victoria ndi Albert, zomwe zinagula Mr Costiff,0500 Collection kwa £ 20 Fund National.
Mtengo wa mpesa McLaren ndi Westwood umawapangitsa kukhala chandamale cha olanda mafashoni.Pamlingo wowonekera bwino, zofananira zimapezeka pa intaneti ndipo zimagulitsidwa mwachindunji komanso motsika mtengo, popanda chinyengo - chithunzi chodziwika bwino pa t-shirt yosavuta.
"Chidutswachi chimachokera ku luso lazojambula," anatero Paul Stolper, katswiri wojambula zithunzi ku London yemwe mndandanda wake waukulu wa nyimbo za punk tsopano uli mu Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Ndiye pali zabodza zodziwika bwino, monga t-sheti yotsika mtengo ya Chipatso cha Loom yokhala ndi Mickey Mouse wopachikidwa, kapena “SEX original” akabudula akapolo a $190 ochokera ku A Store Robot ku Tokyo omwe amazindikirika mosavuta ngati sanali oyambilira, Chifukwa cha nsalu yatsopano komanso kuti masitayilo ake sanapangidwe kwenikweni pamsika wabodza.
Chaka chatha, Bambo Gorman adapeza chovala chotchedwa "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" pa eBay ku UK, chomwe adagula ngati phunziro lowerengera £100 (pafupifupi $139) .
“Ndi chitsanzo chochititsa chidwi cha chinyengo,” iye anatero.” “Sizinakhalepo.” Koma kuwonjezera mawu akuti ‘Chiwonongeko’ ndi kuukira kwa anthu ofuna kugwiritsa ntchito zithunzithunzi zokondedwa kwambiri zosonyezedwa m’njira yotsutsana ndi chikhalidwe zinatsogolera njira ya McLaren ndi Westwood.
Mkazi wamasiye wa McLaren, Young Kim, wagwira ntchito molimbika kwa zaka zambiri kuti asunge cholowa chake ndi cholowa chake. "Ndinapita ku Metropolitan Museum mu 2013 kuti ndikawone zomwe adasonkhanitsa," adatero Ms. King." Ndinadabwa kwambiri nditapeza kuti ambiri a iwo anali abodza.
Palinso zizindikiro zina. "Ali ndi mathalauza a tweed ndi achikopa, omwe ndi osowa komanso owona," adatero Ms King.
Ntchito yomwe idachitika mu chiwonetsero cha Met cha 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" idakopa chidwi pambuyo poti Mayi King ndi Bambo Gorman adafotokoza poyera za zabodza komanso zosagwirizana zambiri zawonetsero.
Koma pali mafunso okhudza ntchito yomwe idalowa mnyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale zaka zisanu ndi zitatu m'mbuyomo.Zitsanzo zikuphatikiza suti yaukapolo yomwe idawonekera kwambiri muwonetsero wa "Anglomania" wa 2006, wopangidwa ndi wogulitsa zinthu zakale waku London Simon Easton, komanso kampani yobwereketsa ya Westwood ndi McLaren ya Punk Pistol Collection, yomwe idapereka ma stylists ndi opanga mafilimu, Mr. Bowey, adakhazikitsa malo osungiramo zinthu zakale pa intaneti.Panthawi ina, nyumba yosungiramo zinthu zakale idasiya kutchula masutiwo ngati gawo la zosonkhanitsa zake.
"Mu 2015, zidutswa ziwiri za McLaren-Westwood zomwe tasonkhanitsa zidatsimikizika kuti ndi zabodza," adatero Andrew Bolton, woyang'anira wamkulu wa Metropolitan Costume Institute.
A Gorman adatumiza maimelo angapo a Bolton pomwe adanenanso kuti ntchito zina pamndandandawu zinali ndi zovuta, koma a Gorman adati a Bolton sanamuyankhenso.Mneneri wa Costume Institute adati zidutswazo zidawunikiridwa ndi akatswiri kangapo.Bambo Bolton adakana kupereka ndemanga yowonjezera pankhaniyi.
A Easton, omwe sanayankhepo kanthu pankhaniyi, adanena kudzera pa imelo kuti a Bowie amamulankhula, koma dzina lake silingadziwike mu nthano yabodza ya punk. Kwa zaka zambiri, tsamba lake la PunkPistol.com, lomwe lidasungidwa mu 2008, limawonedwa ndi ambiri ngati gwero lodalirika lazosungira zakale za McLaren ndi Westwood.
Komabe, a Bowie ananena kuti mosasamala kanthu za kuyesetsa kwawo kutsimikizira zosonkhanitsidwazo, “njira yachisawawa imene zovalazo zinayambika, kupangidwa ndi kupangidwanso pambuyo pake zinalepheretsa izo.” Lerolino, ngakhale ndi mindandanda yamakatalohu ogulitsira, ma risiti ndipo nthaŵi zina kuchokera ku ziphaso za Westwood, zovala zimenezi zidakali zotsutsana.”
Pa Seputembala 9, 2008, a McLaren adadziwitsidwa koyamba za kukula kwa chinyengo chowazungulira iwo ndi Mayi Westwood kudzera pa imelo yosadziwika yotumizidwa ndi a Gorman pankhaniyi ndikutsimikiziridwa ndi Mayi Kim.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Kutsatira malipoti, apolisi adalowa m'nyumba za Croydon ndi Eastbourne, komwe adapeza zolemba zosokoneza," imelo idatero.
Grant Champkins-Howard, yemwe tsopano ndi DJ pansi pa dzina la Grant Dale, ndi Lee Parker, plumber, anazengedwa mlandu ku Kingston Crown Court mu June 2010, Woweruza Susan Matthews adatero. Iwo ndi "abodza achikale".Katundu wawo adagwidwadi mu 2008 ndi Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad ndipo adalanda katundu wa McLaren ndi Westwood omwe amati ndi zabodza ndi zovala ndi zipangizo zogwirizana nazo, komanso 120 zolemba zabodza za Banksy .
Pambuyo pake awiriwa adapezeka ndi mlandu wonyenga ntchito ya Banksy.Mr. McLaren, mlengi yekha wa zovala zoyambirira Kugonana ndi Seditionaries wofunitsitsa kuchitira umboni, anafunsidwa kufufuza zinthu anagwira ndi mfundo zosonyeza kuti zovala anali yabodza: ​​kukula olakwika stencil zilembo, nsalu zosagwirizana, kugwiritsa ntchito YKK m'malo mphezi chizindikiro zipper, zolakwika zithunzi juxtaposition ndi utoto woyera tee tee.
“Anakwiya kwambiri,” anatero Mayi King.” Anali wofunitsitsa kuteteza ndi kuteteza ntchito yake. Pambuyo pa mgwirizano pakati pa a McLaren ndi Ms Westwood mu 1984, panali mbiri yayitali pakati pa awiriwa.
A Howard ndi a Parker adapatsidwa zigamulo zoyimitsidwa pamlandu wa Banks, koma mlandu wa zovala zabodza udathetsedwa pomwe a McLaren adamwalira mu 2010 chifukwa anali mboni yayikulu pakuzenga mlandu pamunda.
Komabe, zikuoneka kuti banja la Ms Westwood mwina linayambitsa mosadziwa kapena kulimbikitsa bizinesi ya punk yabodza. "Ndinapanga zolemba zochepa za mapangidwe oyambirira kuti ndipeze ndalama zoyambitsa Agent Provocateur," anatero Joe Corré, mwana wa Mr. McLaren ndi Ms. Westwood, yemwe anatsegula zovala zake zamkati mu bizinesi ya 1994.
A Corré anati: “Tinapanganso t-shirt ya fupa la nkhuku ndi t-sheti ya 'Venus'. Izi zisanachitike zofananira zatsatanetsatane komanso zokwera mtengo, kutulutsanso kwa ntchito kunali kocheperako pazowonera za silika pa T-shirts wamba Kusindikiza, liwiro la kupanga limakhala lachangu, ndipo mtengo wake ndi wotchipa.
A Corré adati Vivienne Westwood adapereka chilolezo chojambula. McLaren anakwiya.Mu imelo ya 14 October 2008 kwa gulu kuphatikizapo mtolankhani Steven Daly, Mr McLaren analemba kuti: "Ndani anawalola kuchita izi? Ndinamuuza Joe kuti asiye nthawi yomweyo ndikumulembera .Ndakwiya."
A Corré, amene posachedwapa anakhala mkulu wa bungwe la Vivienne Foundation, “amagwiritsa ntchito mwachifundo ufulu wa ufulu wa ntchito yawo kuti apeze ndalama zothandizira pa ntchito zosiyanasiyana.” Ananenanso kuti afufuza momwe "athetsere" chinyengo. Ms King akupitilizabe kumenyera cholowa cha Mr McLaren ndipo akukhulupirira kuti akuchotsedwa mobwerezabwereza m'mbiri yake.
Bambo Easton ndi Bambo Bowey a punk pistol bizinesi akupitiriza kugulitsa Ms. Westwood ndi Mr. McLaren ntchito kudzera Etsy sitolo SeditionariesInTheUK, ambiri amene ali ndi kalata ya chiphaso kuchokera Vivienne Westwood Company, yosainidwa, yopangidwa ndi kusungidwa zakale ndi Murray Blewett.Izi zinaphatikizapo mizeremizeremizere malaya asiliva ndi Karl mu malaya amizeremizeremizeremizeremizere ndi malaya a silika ndi Parl Ma jekete a Levi opangidwa ndi thonje-rabara.
Intaneti siili yolimba ngati nyumba zogulitsira zambiri, ndipo sakanathirira ndemanga pankhaniyi, koma adati amangoyimira ntchito zokhala ndi zipolopolo, mwachitsanzo zithunzi za mwini wake atavala zovala m'ma 1970s.
Gorman anati: “M’pofunika kudziŵa kuti anthu ambiri amene amaberedwa zinthu zabodza amangovutika ndi zinthu zabodza.” Iwo amafunadi kukhulupirira kuti iwo ali mbali ya nkhani ya m’mafashoni.