Nkhani ndi Press

Nyengo ino, makampani opanga mafashoni aku Turkey akumana ndi zovuta zambiri, kuyambira pamavuto omwe akupitilira Covid-19 komanso mikangano yazandale m'maiko oyandikana nawo, mpaka kusokonekera kwazinthu zomwe zikuchitika, nyengo yozizira modabwitsa kuyimitsa kupanga komanso mavuto azachuma mdzikolo, monga zikuwonekera pamavuto azachuma ku Turkey malinga ndi Financial Times yaku UK. Nyuzipepala ya The Times inanena kuti kukwera kwa mitengo kunakwera zaka 20 pa 54% mu March chaka chino.
Ngakhale zovuta izi, talente yokhazikitsidwa komanso yomwe ikubwera yaku Turkey idawonetsa kulimba mtima komanso chiyembekezo pa Istanbul Fashion Week nyengo ino, ndikutengera zochitika zosiyanasiyana ndikuwonetsa njira zowonjezera ndikutsimikizira kupezeka kwawo padziko lonse lapansi nyengo ino.
Zochita zolimbitsa thupi m'malo odziwika bwino monga nyumba yachifumu ya Ottoman ndi tchalitchi cha Crimea chazaka za 160 chibwereranso ku ndondomekoyi, yophatikizidwa ndi zopereka zama digito, komanso ziwonetsero zomwe zatsegulidwa kumene, zokambirana zamagulu ndi pop-ups ku Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Okonza mwambowu - Istanbul Garment Exporters Association kapena İHKİB, Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) ndi Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - adagwirizana ndi Istanbul Soho House kuti apatse anthu ammudzimo chidziwitso chowonera komanso kuyendera kudzera mwa mamembala amakampani owulutsa.
Ku Istanbul, panali mphamvu yowoneka bwino ya mphamvu zatsopano pakuwonetsetsa ndi kuwunika kwa zochitika zolimbitsa thupi monga otenga nawo mbali adalumikizananso ndi anthu mdera lawo panyengo yanyengo.
"[Ife] tikusowa kukhala limodzi," adatero Niyazi Erdoğan wojambula zovala zachimuna." Mphamvu ndizokwera ndipo aliyense akufuna kukhala pawonetsero."
Pansipa, BoF imakumana ndi opanga 10 omwe akutukuka komanso okhazikika pamisonkhano yawo ya Fashion Week ndi zochitika kuti adziwe momwe makampeni awo ndi njira zawo zamtunduwu zidasinthira ku Istanbul nyengo ino.
Şansım Adalı adaphunzira ku Brussels asanakhazikitse Sudi Etuz.Wopanga, yemwe amatsata njira ya digito-yoyamba, akuyang'ana kwambiri bizinesi yake ya digito lero ndikuchepetsa bizinesi yake ya nsalu.Amagwiritsa ntchito zitsanzo zenizeni zenizeni, akatswiri ojambula zithunzi ndi akatswiri opanga nzeru zopangapanga, komanso zosonkhanitsira makapisozi a NFT ndi zovala zochepa zakuthupi.
Şansım Adalı amachitira chiwonetsero chake ku Crimea Memorial Church pafupi ndi Galata ku Istanbul, komwe mapangidwe ake a digito amatengera ma avatara adijito ndipo amawonetsedwa pazenera lalitali mamita 8. Atataya abambo ake ku Covid-19, adalongosola kuti "sizikumva bwino" kukhala ndi anthu ambiri pachiwonetsero chake cha digito.
"Ndizochitika zosiyana kwambiri, kukhala ndi chiwonetsero cha digito pa malo akale omanga," adatero BoF. "Ndimakonda kusiyana kwake. Aliyense amadziwa za tchalitchichi, koma palibe amene amalowamo. Mbadwo watsopanowu sudziwa ngakhale kuti malowa alipo. Choncho, ndikungofuna kuwona m'badwo wachichepere mkati ndikukumbukira kuti tili ndi zomangamanga zokongolazi."
Chiwonetsero cha digito chimatsagana ndi sewero la opera, ndipo woyimbayo amavala chimodzi mwazovala zochepa zomwe Adal amapanga lero - koma makamaka, Sudi Etuz akufuna kuyang'ana pa digito.
"Zolinga zanga zam'tsogolo ndikungosunga mbali ya nsalu ya mtundu wanga yaying'ono chifukwa sindikuganiza kuti dziko lapansi likufunika mtundu wina kuti upangitse anthu ambiri. Ndimayang'ana kwambiri ntchito zama digito. Ndili ndi gulu la akatswiri opanga makompyuta, akatswiri a digito ndi Gulu la ojambula zovala. Gulu langa lopanga ndi Gen Z, ndipo ndimayesetsa kuwamvetsetsa, kuwawonera, kuwamvera. "
Gökay Gündoğdu adasamukira ku New York kuti akaphunzire za kasamalidwe kazinthu asanalowe nawo ku Domus Academy ku Milan mu 2007.Gündoğdu adagwira ntchito ku Italy asanakhazikitse chizindikiro chake chachikazi cha TAGG mu 2014 - Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu.
TAGG ikuwonetsa zosonkhanitsira nyengo ino ngati chiwonetsero chamyuziyamu chowonjezera pa digito: "Timagwiritsa ntchito ma QR code ndi zenizeni zenizeni kuti tiwonere makanema omwe akutuluka pamakoma - makanema azithunzi, ngati chiwonetsero cha mafashoni," Gündoğdu adauza BoF.
"Sindine munthu wa digito konse," adatero, koma panthawi ya mliri, "zonse zomwe timachita ndi digito. Timapangitsa kuti tsamba lathu likhale losavuta kumva komanso losavuta kumva. Tili mu [pulatifomu yoyang'anira zinthu zonse] Joor adawonetsa zosonkhanitsa mu 2019 ndipo adapeza makasitomala atsopano komanso atsopano ku US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait."
Ngakhale kuti anachita bwino, kutsika kwa TAGG pa akaunti zapadziko lonse lapansi nyengoyi kwakhala kovuta.
Mavuto azachuma akhudzanso zosonkhanitsa zake nyengo ino: "Lira yaku Turkey ikutaya mphamvu, kotero zonse ndi zodula kwambiri. Kutumiza nsalu kuchokera kunja kuli otanganidwa. Boma likuti musakakamize mpikisano pakati pa opanga nsalu zakunja ndi msika wapakhomo. Muyenera Kulipira msonkho wowonjezera kuti mutenge kunja." Chifukwa cha zimenezi, okonzawo anasakaniza nsalu za m’dzikolo ndi zimene zinatumizidwa kuchokera ku Italy ndi ku France.
Creative Director Yakup Bicer adakhazikitsa mtundu wake wa Y Plus, mtundu wa unisex, mu 2019 patatha zaka 30 akugwira ntchito yopanga zojambula zaku Turkey.Y Plus idayamba ku London Fashion Week mu February 2020.
Zosonkhanitsira digito za Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 zosonkhanitsira zimalimbikitsidwa ndi "akatswiri a kiyibodi osadziwika ndi omwe amateteza malingaliro a crypto-anarchist" ndipo amapereka uthenga woteteza ufulu wandale pamasamba ochezera.
"Ndikufuna kupitiriza [kuwonetsa] kwa kanthawi," adatero BoF. "Monga momwe tachitira kale, kubweretsa ogula pamodzi pa sabata la mafashoni ndi nthawi yambiri komanso yolemetsa kwambiri pazachuma. Tsopano tikhoza kufika kumadera onse a dziko lapansi panthawi imodzimodzi pa kukhudza batani ndi chiwonetsero cha digito ."
Kupitilira luso laukadaulo, Bicer ikuthandizira kupanga zinthu zakomweko kuthana ndi kusokonekera kwa kagayidwe kazinthu - ndipo pochita izi, ikuyembekeza kubweretsa njira zokhazikika.
Ece ndi Ayse Ege adakhazikitsa mtundu wawo wa Dice Kayek mu 1992. Wopangidwa kale ku Paris, mtunduwo adalowa nawo Fédération Française de la Couture mu 1994 ndipo adalandira Mphotho ya Jameel III, mphotho yapadziko lonse lapansi yaukadaulo wamakono ndi kapangidwe kake motsogozedwa ndi miyambo yachisilamu, mu 2013 idasinthanso masitudiyo ake ku Istanbul padziko lonse lapansi.
Alongo a Dice Kayek Ece ndi Ayse Ege awonetsa zosonkhanitsira zawo mu kanema wamafashoni nyengo ino - mawonekedwe a digito omwe tsopano akuzidziwa bwino, akupanga mafilimu amafashoni kuyambira 2013.Tsegulani ndikubwereranso.Ili ndi phindu lochulukirapo.Mu zaka 10 kapena 12, mutha kuwoneranso.Timakonda zosiyanasiyana zake, "Ece adauza BoF.
Masiku ano, Dice Kayek amagulitsa padziko lonse lapansi ku Ulaya, US, Middle East ndi China. Kudzera m'sitolo yawo ku Paris, adasiyanitsa zochitika za ogula mu sitolo pogwiritsa ntchito miyambo ya ku Turkey monga njira yodziwira malonda.
Alongowa m'mbuyomu adachita bizinesi yawo kuchokera ku Paris asanasamukire ku Istanbul, komwe situdiyo yawo imalumikizidwa kuchipinda chowonetsera cha Beaumonti. Pobweretsa zopanga m'nyumba, alongowo adayembekezanso kuti zaluso zaku Turkey zimathandizidwa ndikusungidwa m'gulu lake.
Niyazi Erdoğan ndiye mlengi woyambitsa Istanbul Fashion Week 2009 komanso Wachiwiri kwa Purezidenti wa Turkey Fashion Designers Association, komanso mphunzitsi ku Istanbul Fashion Academy. Kuphatikiza pa zovala zachimuna, adayambitsa mtundu wa NIYO mu 2014 ndipo adapambana Mphotho ya European Museum mchaka chomwecho.
Niyazi Erdoğan adapereka zovala zake zachimuna pa digito nyengo ino: "Tonse tikupanga digito tsopano - tikuwonetsa mu Metaverse kapena NFTs. Timagulitsa zosonkhanitsira pa digito ndi mwakuthupi, tikuyenda mbali zonse ziwiri. Tikufuna kukonzekera tsogolo la onse awiri, "adauza BoF.
Komabe, kwa nyengo yotsatira, iye anati, "Ndikuganiza kuti tiyenera kukhala ndi masewera olimbitsa thupi. Mafashoni ndi okhudza anthu komanso kumverera, ndipo anthu amakonda kukhala pamodzi. Kwa anthu opanga, timafunikira izi."
Panthawi ya mliriwu, mtunduwo udapanga malo ogulitsira pa intaneti ndikusintha zosonkhanitsira zawo kuti zikhale "zogulitsa bwino" pa intaneti, poganizira zakusintha kwa ogula panthawi ya mliri. Adawonanso kusintha kwa ogula: "Ndikuwonanso zovala zanga zachimuna zikugulitsidwa kwa akazi, kotero palibe malire."
Monga mphunzitsi wa IMA, Erdogan akuphunzira nthawi zonse kuchokera ku mbadwo wotsatira. "Kwa m'badwo wonga Alpha, ngati muli mu mafashoni, muyenera kuwamvetsa. Masomphenya anga ndikumvetsetsa zosowa zawo, kukhala ndi ndondomeko yokhudzana ndi kukhazikika, digito, mtundu, kudula ndi mawonekedwe - tiyenera kugwira ntchito ndi Iwo amalumikizana."
Wophunzira ku Istituto Marangoni, Nihan Peker adagwira ntchito kumakampani monga Frankie Morello, Colmar ndi Furla asanakhazikitse dzina lake la dzina mu 2012, kupanga zokometsera zokonzeka kuvala, zaukwati ndi couture. Adawonetsa ku London, Paris ndi Milan Fashion Weeks.
Kukondwerera zaka 10 za mtunduwo nyengo ino, Nihan Peker adachita chiwonetsero cha mafashoni ku Çırağan Palace, nyumba yachifumu yakale ya Ottoman atasinthidwa kuchokera ku hotelo yoyang'ana ku Bosphorus.
"Zinanditengera nthawi kuti ndiwonetsetse kuti ndili m'dziko langa," anawonjezera Peker, yemwe anakhala kutsogolo kwa nyengo ino ndi anthu otchuka a ku Turkey atavala zojambula kuchokera kumagulu ake akale. Padziko lonse lapansi, "zinthu zikuyenda bwino," adatero, ndi chikoka chachikulu ku Middle East.
"Okonza onse aku Turkey amayenera kuganizira zovuta za dera lathu nthawi ndi nthawi. Kunena zoona, monga dziko, tikuyenera kuthana ndi zovuta zazikulu zamagulu ndi ndale, kotero tonsefe timataya mphamvu."
Atamaliza maphunziro awo ku Istanbul Fashion Institute mu 2014, Akyuz adaphunzira digiri ya masters ku Menswear Design ku Marangoni Academy ku Milan. Adagwira ntchito ku Ermenegildo Zegna ndi Costume National asanabwerere ku Turkey mu 2016 ndikukhazikitsa chizindikiro chake cha zovala zachimuna mu 2018.
Muwonetsero wachisanu ndi chimodzi wa nyengoyi, Selen Akyuz adapanga filimu yomwe idawonetsedwa ku Soho House ku Istanbul komanso pa intaneti: "Ndi kanema, ndiye siwonetsero kwenikweni, koma ndikuganiza kuti ikugwirabe ntchito. Komanso yokhudza mtima."
Monga bizinesi yaying'ono, Akyuz ikupanga pang'onopang'ono makasitomala ang'onoang'ono apadziko lonse lapansi, okhala ndi makasitomala omwe tsopano ali ku US, Romania ndi Albania. kuchita.
M'malo mogwira ntchito ndi opanga zazikulu, ndakhala ndikuyang'ana osoka ang'onoang'ono am'deralo kuti athandizire mtundu wanga, koma zakhala zovuta kupeza anthu oyenerera.
Gökhan Yavaş adamaliza maphunziro awo ku DEU Fine Arts Textile and Fashion Design mu 2012 ndipo adaphunzira ku IMA asanakhazikitse zovala zake zachimuna mumsewu mu 2017. Mtunduwu ukugwira ntchito ndi makampani monga DHL.
Nyengo ino, Gökhan Yavaş akupereka kanema kakang'ono ndi chiwonetsero cha mafashoni - choyamba m'zaka zitatu. "Tikuphonyadi - ndi nthawi yoti tikambiranenso ndi anthu. Tikufuna kupitiriza kuchita masewera olimbitsa thupi chifukwa pa Instagram, zimakhala zovuta kwambiri kuti tilankhule. Ndizo zambiri zokhudzana ndi kukumana ndi kumva kuchokera kwa anthu maso ndi maso, "akutero wopanga.
"Tasiya kugwiritsa ntchito zikopa zenizeni ndi zikopa zenizeni," adalongosola, pofotokoza kuti mawonekedwe atatu oyamba agululi adalumikizidwa ndi masilafu omwe adapangidwa m'magulu am'mbuyomu.
Kusakhazikika kwazinthu zakhala zovuta kwa mtundu, vuto loyamba ndikupeza nsalu zambiri za mapira kuchokera kwa ogulitsa. Vuto lachiwiri lomwe akukumana nalo ndikutsegula sitolo ku Turkey kuti agulitse zovala za amuna, pamene ogula am'deralo amayang'ana pa division ya Turkey Womenswear Designs.
Mtundu wa Bashaques wovala bwino unakhazikitsidwa mu 2014 ndi Başak Cankeş. Mtunduwu umagulitsa zovala zosambira ndi ma kimono okhala ndi zojambulajambula.
"Nthawi zambiri, ndimachita nawo zojambulajambula ndi zojambulajambula zovala," wotsogolera zaluso Başak Cankeş adauza a BoF atangopereka zomwe adatulutsa posachedwa pamphindi 45 zowonetsera ku Soho House ku Istanbul.
Chiwonetserochi chikufotokoza nkhani ya maulendo ake opita ku Peru ndi Colombia kuti akagwire ntchito ndi amisiri awo, kutengera machitidwe a Anatolian ndi zizindikiro, ndi "kuwafunsa momwe amamvera za Anatolian [zosindikizira]".
“Pafupifupi 60 peresenti ya zosonkhanitsidwazo ndi chidutswa chimodzi, chonsecho cholukidwa pamanja ndi akazi a ku Peru ndi ku Anatolia,” iye akutero.
Cankeş amagulitsa kwa otolera zaluso ku Turkey ndipo akufuna makasitomala ena kuti azitolera zosungiramo zinthu zakale kuchokera ku ntchito yake, akufotokoza kuti "sakufuna kukhala mtundu wapadziko lonse lapansi chifukwa ndizovuta kukhala mtundu wapadziko lonse lapansi komanso wokhazikika. wopanga."
Gulu la Karma Collective likuyimira talente yomwe ikubwera ya Istanbul Moda Academy, yomwe idakhazikitsidwa mu 2007, yopereka madigiri mu Fashion Design, Technology ndi Product Development, Fashion Management, ndi Fashion Communication ndi Media.
"Vuto lalikulu lomwe ndili nalo ndi nyengo, chifukwa kwakhala chipale chofewa kwa masabata awiri apitawo, kotero ifenso tili ndi mavuto ambiri ndi makina operekera zakudya ndi nsalu zopangira nsalu," Hakalmaz adauza BoF.Anapanga zosonkhanitsazo m'milungu iwiri yokha chifukwa cha chizindikiro chake Alter Ego, chomwe chinaperekedwa ngati gawo la gulu la Karma, komanso lopangidwira nyumba ya mafashoni Nocturne.
Hakalmaz sakugwiritsanso ntchito njira zaukadaulo pothandizira kupanga kwake, akuti: "Sindimakonda kugwiritsa ntchito ukadaulo ndipo ndimakhala kutali ndi izi momwe ndingathere chifukwa ndimakonda kuchita zamanja kuti ndizidziwa zakale."