Nkhani ndi Press

Ngakhale kuti nthawi ina inali yocheperako, moyo wokhazikika wayandikira kwambiri msika wamafashoni, ndipo zomwe anthu amasankha m'mbuyomu ndizofunikira kwambiri. zonse.planeti.
Mitundu yambiri, opanga, opanga, opanga ndi zopangira zogulitsira m'makampani opanga mafashoni akuyeretsa pang'onopang'ono machitidwe awo.Ena adalimbikitsa machitidwe okhazikika kuyambira pomwe kampaniyo idayamba, pomwe ena amayang'ana kwambiri njira yomwe imayang'anira kupita patsogolo pa ungwiro, chifukwa amapewa kubiriwira potengera njira zenizeni zobiriwira pogwiritsa ntchito kuyesetsa kwenikweni.
Zimazindikirikanso kuti machitidwe okhazikika amaposa nkhani za chilengedwe, kuphatikizapo nkhani zokhudzana ndi kufanana pakati pa amuna ndi akazi ndi miyezo ya kuntchito zomwe zimalimbikitsa malo otetezeka.Monga mafakitale a mafashoni akuyang'ana patsogolo pakupanga zovala zokhazikika, California Apparel News inafunsa akatswiri okhazikika ndi omwe akupita patsogolo m'munda: Ndi chiyani chomwe chapindula kwambiri pazaka zisanu zapitazi?
Tsopano kuposa kale lonse, makampani opanga mafashoni akuyenera kuchoka ku chitsanzo chotsatira-kupeza, kupanga, kugwiritsa ntchito, kutaya-kuzungulira.Njira yopangidwa ndi anthu ya cellulosic fiber ili ndi luso lapadera lokonzanso zinyalala za thonje zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kale ndi ogula pambuyo pake mu ulusi wa namwali.
Birla Cellulose yapanga luso lamakono la eni nyumba kuti lizibwezeretsanso zinyalala za thonje zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kale kukhala viscose yatsopano yofanana ndi ulusi wamba ndipo yakhazikitsa Liva Reviva ndi 20% yazinthu zopangira ngati zinyalala zomwe zimangogwiritsidwa ntchito kale.
Circularity ndi imodzi mwazinthu zomwe timayang'ana kwambiri. Ndife gawo la mapulojekiti angapo a consortium omwe akugwira ntchito pamibadwo yotsatira, monga Liva Reviva.Birla Cellulose ikugwira ntchito molimbika kuti iwonjezere ulusi wam'badwo wotsatira mpaka matani 100,000 pofika chaka cha 2024 ndikuwonjezera zomwe zidasinthidwa kale komanso zotayidwa pambuyo pa ogula.
Tinalemekezedwa pa 1st UN Global Compact India Network National Innovation and Sustainable Supply Chain Awards pa phunziro lathu la "Liva Reviva ndi Fully Traceable Circular Global Fashion Supply Chain".
Kwa chaka chachitatu motsatizana, Canopy's 2021 Hot Button Report inaika Birla Cellulose monga Nambala 1 wa MMCF wopanga padziko lonse lapansi. Chiwerengero chapamwamba kwambiri mu lipoti la chilengedwe chikuwonetsa kuyesetsa kwathu kuti tipititse patsogolo kachitidwe ka matabwa, kasungidwe ka nkhalango ndi kukhazikitsa njira zothetsera mibadwo yotsatira.
M'zaka zaposachedwa, makampani opanga mafashoni amayang'ana kwambiri polimbana ndi kuchulukitsa kwazinthu.Cholinga chachikulu cha izi ndikuletsa zinthu zosagulitsidwa kuti ziwotchedwe kapena kupita kumalo otayirako.Posintha momwe mafashoni amapangidwira kuti angotulutsa zomwe zimafunikira ndikugulitsidwa, opanga atha kupanga chothandizira chachikulu komanso chothandiza pakusunga zinthu. kupanga.
Timakhulupirira kuti chinthu chachikulu chomwe makampani opanga mafashoni apeza pazaka zisanu zapitazi ndikuti kukhazikika kwakhala mutu wofunikira kwa ma brand ndi ogulitsa.
Kukhazikika kwawonekera ngati msika womwe uli ndi zotsatira zabwino komanso zoyezera zachuma zomwe zimagwirizanitsidwa ndi makampani omwe amazitengera, kutsimikizira mabizinesi otengera momwemo ndikufulumizitsa kusintha kwazinthu.
Kuchokera ku mapangidwe ozungulira mpaka ku chiphaso kuti muyese zonena ndi zotsatira zake; machitidwe aukadaulo aukadaulo omwe amapangitsa kuti njira zogulitsira ziziwoneka bwino, zowoneka bwino komanso zopezeka kwa makasitomala; posankha zinthu zokhazikika, monga nsalu zathu zochokera ku madzi a citrus; ndi kubwezeretsanso machitidwe opangira ndi kutha kwa moyo, makampani opanga mafashoni akudzipereka kwambiri kuti asinthe zofuna zabwino zachitetezo cha chilengedwe kukhala zenizeni.
Komabe, makampani opanga mafashoni padziko lonse lapansi amakhalabe ovuta, ogawanika komanso osadziwika pang'ono, ndi malo osatetezeka ogwira ntchito m'malo ena opanga zinthu padziko lonse lapansi, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti chilengedwe chiwonongeke komanso kudyetsedwa kwa anthu.
Timakhulupirira kuti mafashoni athanzi komanso okhazikika adzakhala muyezo wamtsogolo potengera malamulo omwe amafanana, ndikuchita nawo limodzi ndi kudzipereka kwamakampani ndi makasitomala.
Kwa zaka zisanu zapitazi, makampani opanga mafashoni akukumana - kaya kupyolera mu kulengeza zamakampani kapena zofuna za ogula - osati kokha kuthekera kopanga chilengedwe chomwe chimayamikira anthu ndi dziko lapansi, koma kukhalapo kwa machitidwe ndi njira zothetsera kusintha kwa makampani osinthika.
Sikukokomeza kunena kuti kuti apite patsogolo, makampani opanga mafashoni ayenera kuika patsogolo kufanana kwa amuna ndi akazi ndi kulola amayi kuti aziyimiridwa mofanana pamtengo wamtengo wapatali. Kwa ine, ndikufuna kuwona chithandizo chochuluka kwa azimayi amalonda omwe akufulumizitsa kusintha kwa mafakitale a mafashoni kukhala makampani ogwirizana, ophatikizana komanso okonzanso. kumbuyo kwa kukhazikika kwa chilengedwe cha mafashoni.Utsogoleri wawo uyenera kuthandizidwa pamene akulimbana ndi zovuta za nthawi yathu ino.
Kupambana kwakukulu pakupanga kachitidwe koyenera komanso koyenera kachitidwe ka mafashoni kunali ndime ya California Senate Bill 62, Apparel Worker Protection Act. Biluyo ikufotokoza chomwe chimayambitsa kuba kwa malipiro, komwe kuli ponseponse m'dongosolo la mafashoni, kuchotsa kachitidwe ka mtengo wa chidutswa ndikupanga ma brand mophatikizana komanso mosiyanasiyana pamilandu yomwe yabedwa kwa ogwira ntchito pazovala.
Lamuloli ndi chitsanzo cha bungwe lotsogozedwa ndi ogwira ntchito modabwitsa, kumanga mgwirizano waukulu komanso wozama, komanso mgwirizano wodabwitsa wa mabizinesi ndi nzika zomwe zatseka bwino kusiyana kwakukulu pakati pa malo opangira zovala ku United States. chifukwa zimawonetsetsa kuti ma brand ndi ogulitsa ali ndi udindo wobedwa mwalamulo.
Ndime ya California's Garment Worker Protection Act ili ndi zambiri chifukwa cha ntchito ya Executive Director wa Garment Worker Center Marissa Nuncio, m'modzi mwa ngwazi zamakampani opanga mafashoni pakukhazikitsa malamulo otsogozedwa ndi ogwira ntchitowa.
Pamene zinthu zopangira zinthu zopangira zinthu zikakhala zochepa—ndipo pali kale zinthu zambiri zopangira zinthu ngati zimenezi—kodi n’kwanzeru kupitirizabe kugwiritsa ntchito chuma chochepacho kuti tikolole zinthu zina zowonjezera?
Chifukwa cha zomwe zachitika posachedwapa pakupanga thonje ndi kuluka, fanizo losavuta kwambirili ndi funso lovomerezeka lomwe makampani akuluakulu amafashoni ayenera kudzifunsa pamene akupitiriza kusankha thonje lomwe silinakhalepo ndi thonje lopangidwanso.
Kugwiritsiridwa ntchito kwa thonje wobwezerezedwanso mu zovala, pamodzi ndi njira yotsekedwa yobwezeretsanso zinthu zomwe zimagwirizanitsa thonje pambuyo pa mafakitale ndi thonje la pambuyo pa ogula mumpangidwe wosalowerera ndale, monga zomwe zatulutsidwa posachedwapa ndi Everywhere Apparel, ndizofunikira kwambiri. zimphona zamakampani athu, zidzafuna kukankhira kwina mu gawo losangalatsali.
Ulimi wa thonje umagwiritsa ntchito madzi opitilira malita 21 thililiyoni chaka chilichonse, zomwe zimawerengera 16% ya mankhwala ophera tizilombo padziko lonse lapansi komanso 2.5% yokha ya zokolola.
Kufunika kwa zinthu zapamwamba zachiwiri komanso kufunika kwa makampani kuti pakhale njira yokhazikika ya mafashoni potsirizira pake.Marque Luxury amakhulupirira kulimbikitsa kukhazikika pokhala gawo la chuma chozungulira, pamene akupereka ulemu wapamwamba wokhala ndi mbiri yakale.
Pamene msika wamtengo wapatali ukukulirakulirabe, pali umboni wamphamvu wosonyeza kuti mayendedwe a m'badwo wotsatira wa ogula akusintha kuchoka pakudzipatula kupita ku kuphatikizika. Izi zowoneka bwino zalimbikitsa kukula kwa kugula ndi kugulitsanso zinthu zamtengo wapatali, zomwe zimapangitsa zomwe Marque Luxury akuwona ngati kusintha kwakukulu mumakampani opanga mafashoni. Imalimbikitsa mabizinesi ozungulira, kuphatikizanso kugulitsanso malonda, ndipo ndizofunikira kwambiri kuti bizinesiyo ithandizire kuchepetsa kutulutsa mpweya padziko lonse lapansi ndi kupitilira apo. Mwa kupeza ndikupereka zikwizikwi za zinthu zapamwamba zomwe zidagwiritsidwa ntchito kale, Marque Luxury ndi malo ake 18+ ogulitsanso padziko lonse lapansi akhala akuyambitsa kayendetsedwe kazachuma padziko lonse lapansi, kupangitsa kuti pakhale kufunika kochulukira kwa moyo wamphesa komanso kukulitsa moyo wa chinthu chilichonse.
Ife ku Marque Luxury timakhulupirira kuti chidziwitso cha chikhalidwe cha anthu padziko lonse lapansi ndi kulira kotsutsana ndi njira yokhazikika ya mafashoni, mwa iwo okha, ndi chimodzi mwazochita zazikulu zamakampani mpaka pano.Ngati izi zikupitirizabe, chidziwitso ichi cha chikhalidwe cha anthu ndi zachuma chidzapitirizabe kupanga ndi kusintha momwe anthu amaonera, amadya ndikuthandizira malonda ogulitsa malonda apamwamba.
Pazaka zisanu zapitazi, kusasunthika kwa mafashoni kwakhala chinthu chofunikira kwambiri pamakampani. Ma brand omwe sakambirana nawo amakhala opanda ntchito, zomwe ndikusintha kwakukulu. Zoyeserera zambiri zimayang'ana pamayendedwe operekera mtsinje, monga zida zabwinoko, kuwononga madzi pang'ono, mphamvu zongowonjezedwanso ndi malamulo okhwima pantchito. vuto lalikulu lotayira pansi.Ngakhale kugulitsanso ndikugwiritsanso ntchito ndizofunikira kwambiri pazachuma chozungulira, sizili nkhani yonse.Tiyenera kupanga, kumanga zomangamanga kwa makasitomala athu ndikuchita nawo dongosolo lozungulira mozungulira.Kuthetsa mavuto a mapeto a moyo kumayambira pachiyambi.Tiyeni tiwone ngati tingathe kukwaniritsa izi mkati mwa zaka zisanu zikubwerazi.
Ngakhale ogula ndi ogulitsa akuchulukirachulukira kufunafuna nsalu zokhazikika, ndizosatheka kuti zida zomwe zilipo kale zikwaniritse zosowazi. Masiku ano, ambiri aife timavala zovala zopangidwa kuchokera ku thonje (24.2%), mitengo (5.9%) komanso mafuta ambiri (62%), zonse zomwe zili ndi zovuta zazachilengedwe. kusintha momwe zovala zimapangidwira, kugulitsidwa ndi kugwiritsidwa ntchito kuchoka ku chikhalidwe chawo chotaya; kukonza zobwezeretsanso; gwiritsani ntchito zinthu moyenera ndikusintha ku zolowetsa zongowonjezera.
Makampaniwa amawona zatsopano zakuthupi ngati zogulitsa kunja ndipo ali okonzeka kusonkhanitsa zatsopano zazikulu, zomwe zimayang'ana "moonshot", monga kupeza "ulusi wapamwamba" womwe uyenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito m'machitidwe ozungulira magazi koma uli ndi katundu wofanana ndi katundu wamba ndipo alibe zosokoneza zakunja. HeiQ ndi Mmodzi mwa akatswiri otere apanga ulusi wokometsera nyengo wa HeiQ AeoniQ, njira yosinthira poliyesitala ndi nayiloni yokhala ndi kuthekera kwakukulu kosintha makampani.
Kupambana kwakukulu mu mafashoni pazaka zisanu zapitazi zakhala zikugwirizana ndi mgwirizano kuti athetse mavuto akuluakulu okhudzana ndi kukhazikika.Tawona kufunika kothetsa zopinga pakati pa ogulitsa ndi opikisana nawo kuti apititse patsogolo kuzungulira ndikutanthauzira njira yosinthira ku net zero.
Chitsanzo chimodzi ndi wogulitsa malonda odziwika bwino omwe amalonjeza kuti adzakonzanso zovala zilizonse zomwe zimagwera m'masitolo awo, ngakhale omwe akupikisana nawo. Kufunika kwa mgwirizano wowonjezerekawu, womwe walimbikitsidwa ndi mliriwu, udatsindikitsidwa m'gawo loyambirira, pomwe magawo awiri mwa atatu a oyang'anira zogulira zinthu adati akuyang'ana kwambiri kuwonetsetsa kuti ogulitsa akulephera kubweza ngongole. Sustainable Apparel Coalition ndi United Nations.Chotsatira chotsatirachi chidzakhala kupitiriza kukhazikitsa momwe ndondomekoyi ikuwonekera, momwe idzagwiritsire ntchito komanso zotsatira zake. momwe timalankhulirana chidziwitsochi mwachibadwa chidzabweretsa mwayi wochuluka wosunga zovala zozungulira kwa nthawi yayitali, kuchepetsa zowonongeka ndipo potsirizira pake kuonetsetsa kuti mafakitale a mafashoni amakhala Amphamvu kwamuyaya.
Kubwezeretsanso zovala pogwiritsa ntchito kukonzanso, kukonzanso ndi kukonzanso ndi njira yaikulu kwambiri pakali pano. Izi zimathandiza kuti nsalu ziziyenda komanso kuti zisamatayike. Ndikofunikira kuti tizindikire kuchuluka kwa zinthu zomwe zimafunika popanga chovala, monga nthawi yomwe zimatengera kulima thonje, kukolola ndi kukonza, ndikuluka zinthuzo kukhala nsalu kuti anthu azidula ndi kusoka. Izi ndizinthu zambiri.
Ogwiritsa ntchito ayenera kuphunzitsidwa za kufunikira kwa ntchito yawo pokonzanso zinthu. Mchitidwe umodzi wokha wodzipereka kuti agwiritsenso ntchito, kuvalanso kapena kukonzanso kungathe kusunga zinthuzi kukhala zamoyo ndi kukhudza kwambiri chilengedwe chathu.Kufuna kuti zovala zipangidwe kuchokera kuzinthu zobwezerezedwanso ndi chinthu china chomwe makasitomala angachite kuti zithandizire kuonetsetsa kuti chuma chathu chilipo.Makampani ndi opanga nawonso amatha kuthandizira kukonza zinthuzo popanganso nsalu zopangidwanso. zingathandize kuti malonda a zovala asamagwirizane ndi zachilengedwe.Timakhala gawo la njira yothetsera zinthu zogwiritsira ntchito m'malo mwa migodi.
Ndizolimbikitsa kuona zazing'ono zonse, zapafupi, zodziwika bwino zomwe zikukhudzidwa ndi kukhazikika.
Chitukuko chachikulu komanso chofunikira ndikupitilira kuyankha kwa mafashoni othamanga, ma hate couture ndi mitundu yambiri yotchuka.
Ndikukhulupirira kuti kupambana kwakukulu ndiko kufotokozera zomwe ife monga makampani tikufunikira kuti tichepetse mpweya wathu wa carbon ndi osachepera 45% pofika 2030 kuti tigwirizane ndi Pangano la Paris. mphamvu zongowonjezwdwa, pangani zinthu kuchokera ku zongowonjezwdwa kapena zobwezerezedwanso, ndikuwonetsetsa kuti zovala zapangidwa kuti zizikhala kwa nthawi yayitali - eni ake ambiri otsika mtengo, kenaka adzabwezeretsanso kumapeto kwa moyo.
Malinga ndi Ellen MacArthur Foundation, nsanja zisanu ndi ziwiri zogulitsanso ndi zobwereketsa zafika pamtengo wa madola mabiliyoni m'zaka ziwiri zapitazi. Mabizinesi oterowo akhoza kukula kuchokera ku 3.5% mpaka 23% ya msika wamakono wapadziko lonse pofika 2030, akuyimira mwayi wa $ 700 biliyoni.
Ndikuganiza kuti zomwe zachitika bwino kwambiri ndi kuperekedwa kwaposachedwa kwa malamulo ogulira zinthu ku US ndi EU, komanso Fashion Act yomwe ikubwera ku New York. Brands abwera kutali malinga ndi momwe amakhudzira anthu ndi dziko lapansi pazaka zisanu zapitazi, koma malamulo atsopanowa adzakankhira kuyesetsa kumeneku mwachangu kwambiri. tekinoloje ikuima kwa nthawi yayitali kwambiri.Ndikuyembekezera zosintha zomwe tingachite kuyambira chaka chino.
Makampani opanga zovala apita patsogolo kwambiri pakuwongolera chilengedwe m'zaka zingapo zapitazi, koma padakali ntchito yambiri yoti ichitike.Ogula zovala ambiri ozindikira adzakhala okhutira.
Ku NILIT, tadzipereka kugwira ntchito ndi omwe timagwira nawo ntchito padziko lonse lapansi kuti tipititse patsogolo ntchito zathu zokhazikika ndikuyang'ana kwambiri zinthu ndi njira zomwe zithandizira kusanthula kwa moyo wa zovala ndi mbiri yokhazikika.
Chaka chatha, tidayambitsa zinthu zingapo zatsopano za SENSIL kudzera mu SENSIL BioCare zomwe zimalimbana ndi zovuta zachilengedwe zamakampani opanga zovala, monga kugwiritsa ntchito madzi, zosinthidwanso komanso kulimbikira kwa zinyalala za nsalu, zomwe zimafulumizitsa kuwonongeka kwa ma microplastics ngati atha kulowa m'nyanja.
Kuphatikiza pa chitukuko chokhazikika cha mankhwala, NILIT yadzipereka kuzinthu zopanga zodzikongoletsera kuti zichepetse zotsatira zathu monga opanga, kuphatikizapo kuchepetsa mpweya woipa wowonjezera kutentha, kupanga ndi kuwongolera zinyalala za zero, ndi kuteteza madzi a m'mphepete mwa mitsinje.Lipoti lathu la Corporate Sustainability Report ndi ndalama zathu mu maudindo atsopano a utsogoleri wokhazikika ndizofotokozera zapagulu za kudzipereka kwa NILIT kutsogolera makampani ovala zovala padziko lonse lapansi kuti akhale ndi udindo wokhazikika.
Kupambana kwakukulu pakukhazikika kwamafashoni kwachitika m'magawo awiri: kukulitsa njira zokhazikika zamitundu ina komanso kufunikira kowonekera bwino kwa data ndi kutsatiridwa mumayendedwe operekera mafashoni.
Kuphulika kwa ulusi wina monga Tencel, Lyocell, RPETE, mabotolo apulasitiki obwezerezedwanso, nsomba zobwezerezedwanso, hemp, chinanazi, cactus, ndi zina zotero ndizosangalatsa kwambiri chifukwa zosankhazi zimatha kufulumizitsa kupangidwa kwa msika wogwira ntchito wozungulira - kwa Perekani mtengo kamodzi - zida zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito komanso kupewa kuipitsidwa panjira yoperekera.
Zofuna za ogula ndi zoyembekeza kuti zikhale zowonekera bwino za momwe chovala chimapangidwira chimatanthawuza kuti zizindikiro ziyenera kukhala bwino popereka zolemba ndi mfundo zodalirika zomwe zili ndi tanthauzo kwa anthu ndi dziko lapansi.
Masitepe otsatirawa akuphatikizapo zaluso mu zipangizo ndi umisiri kupanga, ndicho algae kwa utoto jinzi, 3D kusindikiza kuthetsa zinyalala, ndi zambiri, ndi zisathe deta nzeru, kumene deta bwino amapereka zopangidwa ndi dzuwa kwambiri, kusankha zisathe, komanso kuzindikira kwambiri ndi kugwirizana ndi chikhumbo cha makasitomala.
Pamene tidachita Chiwonetsero cha Functional Fabrics ku New York m'chilimwe cha 2018, kukhazikika kunali kungoyamba kubwera kwa owonetsa, m'malo mopempha kuti apereke zitsanzo ku msonkhano wathu, zomwe zinawonetsa zochitika zabwino kwambiri m'magulu ambiri a nsalu. Tsopano ichi ndi chofunikira.Khama lomwe opanga nsalu amayesa kuwonetsetsa kuti nsalu zawo zakhazikika ndi zochititsa chidwi.Panthawi yathu ya Novembala 2021 ku Portland, Oregon, zotumizira zidzaganiziridwa ngati zosachepera 50% zazinthu zimachokera kuzinthu zomwe zitha kugwiritsidwanso ntchito.Ndife okondwa kuwona kuchuluka kwa zitsanzo zomwe zilipo kuti tiganizire.
Kugwirizanitsa ma metric kuyeza kukhazikika kwa polojekiti ndizomwe timayang'ana m'tsogolomu, ndipo mwachiyembekezo kwa mafakitale komanso.Kuyeza mpweya wa carbon wa nsalu ndizofunikira posachedwapa kuti muyese ndi kuyankhulana ndi ogula.Pamene mpweya wa carbon wa nsalu watsimikiziridwa, mpweya wa carbon wa chovala chomalizidwa ukhoza kuwerengedwa.
Kuyeza izi kudzaphatikizapo mbali zonse za nsalu, kuchokera kuzinthu, mphamvu zopangira kupanga, kugwiritsa ntchito madzi komanso ngakhale zikhalidwe zogwirira ntchito.Ndizodabwitsa momwe makampaniwa akuyendera mopanda malire!
Chinthu chimodzi chomwe mliriwu watiphunzitsa ndikuti kuyanjana kwapamwamba kumatha kuchitika patali.Zikuwoneka kuti phindu lokhala kutali ndi matenda ndi mabiliyoni a madola pakusunga ndalama zoyendera komanso kuwonongeka kwa carbon.