Iindaba kunye neCofa

Ke ufuna ukuthenga into entsha, kodwa awufuni ukufaka isandla kwizibalo ezoyikeka ozifumanayo xa iGoogling “impembelelo yefashoni yendalo.” Wenza ntoni
Ukuba unomdla kuzinzo, ukhe weva inguqulelo yale ntetho: "Eyona ___ izinzileyo yile osele unayo." Kuyinyani, kodwa akusoloko kusebenza, ngakumbi xa Impahla: Izitayile ziguquka, kunjalo nangemali, kwaye ufuna ukugcina kwaye uphathe into entsha ekhanyayo.Nangona kunjalo, imboni yefashoni kufuneka icothe.Ngokwengxelo yamva nje yeBloomberg, iakhawunti yefashoni yeepesenti ezili-10 zokukhutshwa kwecarbon dioxide yehlabathi kunye nesinye kwisihlanu sonyaka wemveliso yeplastiki yehlabathi.
Eyona nto ilandelayo ilungileyo malunga nokunxiba iimpahla osele unazo yile nto ishishini lefashoni liyibiza ngokuba “ukusetyenziswa ngokuqaphela.” Sidla ngokunxulumanisa ixabiso eliphezulu nomgangatho ophezulu, kodwa akunjalo.
Umthengi wefashoni u-Amanda Lee McCarty, ophethe i-podcast ye-Clotheshorse, usebenze njengomthengi iminyaka engaphezu kwe-15, ubukhulu becala kwishishini lefashoni ekhawulezayo-uthatha into ayibiza ngokuba "ifashoni ekhawulezayo" yeshishini kwindawo yangaphambili.
Isisombululo, utshilo uMcCarty, kukubeka amaxabiso ezinto eziphezulu kwaye emva koko ucwangcise ukuthengisa uninzi lwazo ngesaphulelo - okuthetha ukuba iindleko zokwenziwa ziye zihla zinyuka. ”Kwangoko, ilaphu lanyamalala efestileni, utshilo.
UMcCarty uthe impembelelo igqugqisile kwishishini, ide ifikelele kwiimpawu zefashoni zobunewunewu. Yiyo loo nto namhlanje, “utyalo-mali” alukho lula njengokuthenga into ebiza kakhulu.Nangona kunjalo, ayinguye wonke umntu onokuchitha imali eninzi kwisinxibo, kwaye azikho ii-brand ezininzi ezizinzileyo sizing.Ngoko ke, kufuneka sijonge ntoni?
Khetha imicu yendalo-umqhaphu, ilinen, isilika, uboya, ihempe, njl-eziya kuhlala ixesha elide kwi-wardrobe yakho. Ngokucacileyo, isilika yafunyaniswa iyeyona ilaphu ehlala ixesha elide ngokwexesha lokusetyenziswa kwayo, ilandelwa nguboya. Oku kuyingxenye ngenxa yokuba la malaphu nawo anexesha elide phakathi kokuhlamba, nto leyo inceda ukuba bahlale bekwimeko entle. ipolyester iya kuba yeyona ithatha ixesha elide emhlabeni, ngokwengxelo yalo nyaka.)
U-Erin Beatty, umseki we-Rentrayage, uthe uyakuthanda ukufumana i-hemp kunye ne-jute kuba zizityalo ezivuselelekayo.
KuRebecca Burgess, umseki kunye nomlawuli weFibershed engenzi nzuzo kunye nombhali-mbhali weFibershed: A Movement for Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Manufacturers for the New Textile Economy, imalunga nokufuna ukuxhasa uluntu lwamafama lwasekhaya, ngakumbi elenziwe ngelaphu elenziwe e-US. Uboya ziintsinga eziphambili esizivelisayo.
Kukho neklasi yeentsinga ezingezizo iplastiki kodwa aziyiyo yonke into yendalo okanye.I-Viscose i-fiber ephuma kwi-pulp yomthi eye yanyangwa ngekhemikhali kunye ne-sodium hydroxide kunye ne-carbon disulfide.Kukho iingxaki ezithile nge-viscose: Ngokutsho kwe-Good on You, inkqubo yokuvelisa i-viscose yinkcitho kwaye ingcolise indalo, kunye ne-viscose yokuvelisa i-viscose yimbangela ye-biodefore ngaphambili. into.
Kungekudala, i-Eco Vero - i-fiber ye-viscose esebenzisa inkqubo yokuvelisa uxanduva lokusingqongileyo kunye neyona nto ingaphantsi kwempembelelo - ngoko ke amanye amanyathelo athatyathwa ukuphucula i-carbon footprint yale fayibha ye-semi-synthetic. (Emva koko sichaza i-semi-synthetic.
Khangela i-eco-fabrics: Iinkcukacha zemiba yokuvelisa i-fiber - kukho iindlela ezimbalwa kunye nezincinci ezizinzileyo zokuvelisa iifayili zendalo ezifana ne-cotton kunye ne-silika, njenge-biodegradable semi-synthetic fibers. ukukhangela iGOTS okanye isiqinisekiso seGlobal Organic Textile Standard esinezona mfuno zingqongqo zokusingqongileyo.Njengoko sithetha, iindlela ezintsha ezizezinye kumalaphu eplastiki ziyenziwa; umzekelo, "isikhumba se-vegan" ngokwembali senziwe kwiiplastiki ezicocekileyo ezenziwe ngepetroleum, kodwa izinto ezintsha ezifana nesikhumba se-mushroom kunye ne-ananapple zibonakalisa isithembiso esikhulu.
UGoogle ngumhlobo wakho: Ayizizo zonke iibhrendi ezibonelela ngeenkcukacha malunga nendlela ilaphu eliveliswa ngayo, kodwa bonke abavelisi bempahla kufuneka bafake ileyibhile yangaphakathi eyophula umxholo wefayibha kwisambatho ngepesenti. UKate Caric waseLondon-based eLondon inkampani yeempahla ezizinzileyo uveza ukuba iibrendi ezininzi - ngakumbi iibrendi zefashoni ezikhawulezayo - zidibanisa ngabom iileyibhile zabo. Iiplastiki zihamba ngamagama amaninzi ukuze ukwazi oko kuGoogle.
Ukuba sitshintsha iingqondo zethu kwaye sibone ukuthenga ijean njengokuzinikela kweminyaka yonke okanye utyalo-mali olufanelekileyo, endaweni yempakamo, kunokwenzeka ukuba sigcine into esiyithengayo kwaye sinxibe izinto esinazo. Emva kokuvavanya isimilo sokuthenga, uCaric uthi, ubeka phambili iimpahla ezimenza onwabe - kubandakanya nefashoni. ulonwabo olukhulu kwimpahla Yinto esiyenzayo yonke imihla kwaye ifanele ivakale.
UBeatty uyavuma ukuba iimpahla ozinxiba kube kanye okanye kabini ziyingxaki: “Ngokwenene iphathelele, ngawaphi loo maqhekeza aya kuyichaza inkangeleko yakho ngokuphindaphindiweyo?” Inxalenye yaloo nto icinga ngendlela yokunyamekela isiqwenga sempahla ngaphambi kokuba uyithenge; umzekelo, ingaba icocekile eyomileyo kuphela? Ukuba akukho zicoci ezomileyo eco-friendly kwindawo yakho, ayinakuba sengqiqweni ukuthenga le mveliso.
KuMcCarty, endaweni yokuthenga ngokungxama, uthathe ixesha lokucinga ukuba isiqwenga siza kungena njani kwaye phi kwiwodrophu yakhe.
Ekupheleni kukaBill McKibben's "Earth," enye yeencwadi ezinethemba ngakumbi endizifundileyo malunga nengxaki yemozulu, uqukumbela ngelithi, ngokusisiseko, ezayo yethu Ikamva libuyela kwimodeli yezoqoqosho yasekhaya, encinci. UBurgess uyavuma: ukuhlala kwindawo yeyona nto iphambili ekuthengeni okuzinzileyo. abalimi ukuba banakekele imeko-bume yendawo endihlala kuyo ngokukhetha kwam ukuthenga.”
U-Abrima Erwiah - unjingalwazi, ingcaphephe yefashoni ezinzileyo kunye nomseki weStudio 189 - uthatha indlela efanayo. Ngelixa ethenga kwiimveliso ezinkulu ezizinzileyo ezifana no-Eileen Fisher, uMzalwana uVellies kunye noMara Hoffman, uqhele ukukhangela amashishini amancinci kumantla eNew York.
Umsebenzi awenzayo ngoku uyancedakala kwixesha lakhe lokuvolontiya eGhana nokuhlala nezalamane, nto leyo eye yamnceda wacinga kwakhona ngendlela athenga ngayo. Unxulumano lwakhe oluluqilima neengcali zeempahla luye lwamnceda ukuba aqonde ukuba yonke into ukusuka kwifama ukuya kweyokunxiba inxibelelana njani.”
Xa i-brand izama ukukhangela eyona mvelaphi yesinxibo sayo kwaye ibonakale elubala malunga nezenzo zayo, ibonisa amaxabiso angundoqo aqinileyo.Ukuba uthengela umntu, u-Erwiah uthi kungcono ukubuza imibuzo malunga nezenzo zayo zokuziphatha nezizinzileyo.Le yenye yeendlela ezilungileyo zokuzivavandlakanya ukuba ingaba impahla yabo ilufanele na utyalo-mali. uthetha nomntu onempembelelo ethile kwimisebenzi yeshishini.Kuphawu olukhulu, ukuba abasebenzi babuzwa rhoqo malunga nozinzo, ekuhambeni kwexesha, banokuqonda ukuba le yeyona nto iphambili kumthengi kwaye benze utshintsho.Enyanisweni, ukuthengwa okuninzi ngoku kwenzeka kwi-intanethi.Into uCaric awayeyijonga yayikukuba ngaba i-brand yayindwendwela iifektri zayo kwaye ingaba ibandakanya ulwazi kwiwebhusayithi yabo malunga nokuba bahlawule njani na abasebenzi babo.
Ukurisayikilisha lelinye lawona magama aqhelekileyo asetyenziswa ukucoca ifashoni ekhawulezayo.Ingakumbi ipolyester esetyenzisiweyo inokuba yingxaki.Kodwa ngokuka-Erwiah, yonke into imalunga noyilo olunenjongo.Ukhankanya i-cradle to cradle philosophy.Kuhle ukujika iibhotile zeplastiki zibe yimpahla yokuzivocavoca, kodwa zijika zibe yintoni emva koko?Mhlawumbi iyayidinga kwaye ihlale ixesha elide kangangoko; “Ngamanye amaxesha kungcono ukuba ungayitshintshi,” utshilo u-Erwiah.” Ukuba yibhulukhwe yomjikelo, mhlawumbi imalunga nokuphinda uyisebenzise kwaye uyinike ubomi besibini, kunokutyala imali eninzi ukuze udale enye into. Akukho sisombululo.”
Xa uBeatty wagqiba kwelokuba aqalise iRentrayage, wagxila ekuhlaziyeni izinto awayesele enazo, esebenzisa impahla yakudala, amalaphu asele efile, nezinye izinto ezazisele zisasazwa—wayesoloko ekhangela amatye anqabileyo, njengalawo avela eT-shirt.” Enye yezona zinto zimbi kwimekobume zezi zikipa zinxiba-nye ezenzelwe olu gqatso lomdyarho weembaleki ezizezinye ezenzelwe lo mdyarho weembaleki ezizezinye ezizezenzelwe olu gqatso lomgama, zithe thaa, yaye zikhangeleka zintle ngokwenene,” utshilo. mhle.” Uninzi lwezi zikipa ziyimixube yomqhaphu-polyester, kodwa njengoko sele zikhona, kufuneka zijikelezwe njengempahla ixesha elide kangangoko , uBeatty uzama ukuphinda azisebenzise kuba azigugi ngokukhawuleza.
Kwezinye iimeko, awusoloko ufumana i-brand ethics okanye nomxholo wefiber xa uthenga izinto ezisetyenzisiweyo.Nangona kunjalo, ukunika inkangeleko entsha kwisambatho esele sidada emhlabeni kwaye siphelela kwiindawo zokulahla inkunkuma ihlala iyindlela ezinzileyo.
Nakwiivenkile ezithengisa izinto ezisele zisetyenzisiwe, kukho iindlela zokuvavanya umgangatho kunye nesakhono esihlala sihleli, utshilo uCaric. Kwi-denim, uCaric uthetha izinto ezimbini ekufuneka zijongwe: Inqunyulwe kwi-selvedge, kwaye i-seams yangaphakathi nangaphandle idityaniswe kabini.Ezi zizo zonke iindlela zokuqinisa iingubo ukuze zihlale ixesha elide ngaphambi kokuba zifune ukulungiswa.
Ukuthenga isiqwenga sempahla kubandakanya ukuthatha uxanduva lomjikelo wobomi bento - oku kuthetha ukuba emva kokuba sihambe kuyo yonke le nto kwaye siyithenge ngokwenene, kufuneka siyikhathalele. isihluzo sikamatshini wakho wokuhlamba.Ukuba unako, kuphephe ukusebenzisa isixhobo sokomisa ngokupheleleyo.”Xa uthandabuza, sihlambe kwaye womise umoya.Yeyona nto ingcono onokuyenza,” utshilo uBeatty.
UMcCarty uphinde uncome ukufunda ileyibhile yokunyamekela ngaphakathi kwengubo.Emva kokuba uqhelene neempawu kunye nezinto eziphathekayo, uya kuqalisa ukwazi ukuba yintoni ekufuneka ihlanjululwe yomile kwaye yintoni efanelekileyo yokuhlamba izandla / izimo ezomileyo zomoya.UmcCarty uphinde uncome ukuthenga incwadi kaHeloise ethi "Handy Household Hints", ehlala eyibona kwiivenkile ezithengisayo eziphantsi kwe-5 yeedola kunye ne-packing iqhosha lokufunda, kunye nokufunda iqhosha elisisiseko. imingxunya.Kwaye, yazi xa uphumile kubunzulu bakho; maxa wambi, kufanelekile utyalo-mali ekuthungeni.Emva kokutshintsha idyasi yeediliya zakudala, uMcCarty ukholelwa ukuba uya kuyinxiba ubuncinane kwiminyaka engama-20 ezayo.
Enye indlela yokuhlaziya iimpahla ezidayiweyo okanye ezigugileyo: iidayi.” Ungaze uwajongele phantsi amandla edayi emnyama,” utshilo uBeatty.” Le yenye imfihlelo.
Ngokufaka i-imeyile yakho, uyavumelana nemigaqo yethu kunye nengxelo yabucala kunye nokufumana unxibelelwano lwe-imeyile oluvela kuthi.
Le imeyile iya kusetyenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke iisayithi zaseNew York.Ngokufaka i-imeyile yakho, uyavumelana nemigaqo yethu kunye nomgaqo-nkqubo wabucala kunye nokufumana unxibelelwano lwe-imeyile oluvela kuthi.
Njengenxalenye yeakhawunti yakho, uya kufumana uhlaziyo ngamaxesha athile kunye nezibonelelo ezivela eNew York kwaye ungaphuma nangaliphi na ixesha.
Le imeyile iya kusetyenziselwa ukungena kuzo zonke iisayithi zaseNew York.Ngokufaka i-imeyile yakho, uyavumelana nemigaqo yethu kunye nomgaqo-nkqubo wabucala kunye nokufumana unxibelelwano lwe-imeyile oluvela kuthi.
Njengenxalenye yeakhawunti yakho, uya kufumana uhlaziyo ngamaxesha athile kunye nezibonelelo ezivela eNew York kwaye ungaphuma nangaliphi na ixesha.