USid Vicious wayengenakuze akholelwe ukuba iimpahla zakhe ezindala zazixabiseke kangakanani kwaye abazenzisi babeza kwenza umgudu omkhulu ukuze benze umgunyathi.
Kungekudala, umbhali-mbali wenkcubeko yaseLondon esekwe eLondon uPaul Gorman, umbhali we Ubomi kunye neXesha likaMalcolm McLaren: iBiography, kunye nefandesi yeRock Fashion uPaul Gorman wafumana isiqwenga sikaMarr. Ihempe eyenziwe nguMalcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries ileyibhile, malunga no-1977, ukuze ivavanywe.
Yenziwe nge-muslin kwaye ibonisa umzobo oqaphelekayo ngoko nangoko ligcisa uJamie Reid kwimikhono yeSex Pistols' “Anarchy in the UK” single.
Ukuba yinyani, iya kulanda ixabiso elihle kwifandesi. Kwifandesi yaseBonhams ngoMeyi, ihempe yeparashute ka-1977 kaMnu McLaren kunye noNksz Westwood i-parachute ithengiswa nge-6,660 yeedola, kunye nejezi enqabileyo emnyama nebomvu ehonjiswe ngokhakhayi kunye nee-crossbones kunye ne-"Sex Pistols" ze-Sex88 ze-Futures8 zeedola.
Nangona kunjalo, uMnumzana Gorman akazange aqiniseke ukuba ihempe awayeyivavanya yile nto wayeyibanga umniniyo.
UMnu. Gorman wathi: “AmaSilamsi akasasebenzi kwezinye iindawo.” Kodwa kwenye indawo, ilaphu laliselitsha kakhulu. Ebuzwa malunga nokuvela, umthengisi wasirhoxisa isiqwenga kwindlu yefandesi wathi emva koko sathengiswa ngasese. ”Inye kuphela ihempe efana nale kwingqokelela yemyuziyam, utshilo uGorman, “kwaye ndicinga ukuba iyathandabuzeka nayo.”
Wamkelekile kwihlabathi elingaqhelekanga nelinengeniso lepunk yomgunyathi. Kule minyaka ingama-30 idlulileyo, izenza ngathi yenziwe ngesandla ngoyilo lwantlandlolo olubandakanya i-S-and-M kunye nemizobo emdaka, ukusikwa okutsha kunye nemitya, iipateni zentsalela yasemkhosini, i-tweeds kunye ne-latex - uSid Vicious kunye noontanga bakhe kwi-Anarchy Yintoni eyaba yindumasi kwishishini lexesha.
"Ndifumana ii-imeyile ezininzi nyanga nganye ndibuza ukuba kukho into eyinyani na," utshilo uSteven Philip, umgcini wempahla yefashoni, umqokeleli kunye nomcebisi.
Kangangesiqingatha senkulungwane, uMnumzana McLaren kunye noNks Westwood baye bavula indawo yabo yokuthengisela i-counterculture, i-Let It Rock, e-430 King's Road, e-London. Loo venkile, ngoku eyaziwa ngokuba yi-Worlds End, yindawo yokuzalwa yefashoni yasesitalatweni. Abanini bayo ngabayili abachaza indawo ye-punk.
Kwiminyaka eli-10 eyalandelayo, ivenkile yatshintshwa yaba yiSex and Seditionaries, yazisa inkangeleko kunye nesandi esineziphumo ezikude kwaye ke ngoko sasiqokelelwa.
Umlawuli wezobugcisa weDior kunye noFendi, uKim Jones, unomsebenzi omninzi wokuqala kwaye ukholelwa ukuba "uWestwood noMcLaren benza iplani yempahla yanamhlanje. Babengababonisi," utsho.
Iimyuziyam ezininzi nazo ziqokelela ezi zinto.UMichael Costiff, intlalontle, umyili wangaphakathi kunye nomgcini weWorld Archives kwiDover Street Market Stores, wayengumxhasi wokuqala kaMnu McLaren kunye noNksz Westwood.Impahla ye-178 wayihlanganisa nomfazi wakhe, uGerlinde, ngoku kwingqokelela yeMyuziyam yaseVictoria noAlbert, eyathenga uMnu Costiff02 ingqokelela ye-Art kwi-£ 42 yeSizwe kwi-42.
Ixabiso le-vintage McLaren kunye ne-Westwood libenza ukuba bajolise kwii-pirates zefashoni.Kwinqanaba elicacileyo, ii-replicas ziyafumaneka kwi-intanethi kwaye zithengiswa ngokuthe ngqo kwaye ngexabiso eliphantsi, ngaphandle kokukhohlisa - umzobo nje oqhelekileyo kwi-t-shirt elula.
"Esi siqwenga sivela kwimvelaphi yelizwe lobugcisa," utshilo uPaul Stolper, igalari eseLondon eqokelele uninzi lwemisebenzi yepunk yokuqala ngoku kwiMetropolitan Museum of Art.
Ke kukho ezona nkohliso zicace ngakumbi, njengesikipa esinexabiso eliphantsi leSiqhamo se-Loom esinoMickey Mouse obethelelwe emnqamlezweni, okanye iibhulukhwe ezimfutshane ze-"SEX original" ze-"SEX original" ezisuka kwiRobhothi yeVenkile eTokyo eziphawuleka ngokulula njengengezoqobo, Ngenxa yelaphu elitsha kunye nenyaniso yokuba esi simbo asizange senziwe ngokwenene kwimarike yaseJapan.197
Kunyaka ophelileyo, uMnumzana Gorman wafumana isambatho esibizwa ngokuba yi “Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt” kwi-eBay e-UK, athe wayithenga njengetyala le-£100 (malunga ne-139 yeedola).
“Ngumzekelo onika umdla wokwenziwa komgunyathi,” watsho.” Ayizange ibekho. Kodwa ukongezwa kwesiqubulo esithi ‘Intshabalalo’ kunye nokuzama ukusebenzisa umlinganiswa wekhathuni othandwa kakhulu oboniswe ngendlela echasene nenkcubeko ekhokela indlela kaMcLaren neWestwood.
Umhlolokazi kaMnu McLaren, u-Young Kim, usebenze nzima kule minyaka idlulileyo ukugcina ilifa kunye nelifa lakhe. "Ndiye kwi-Metropolitan Museum ngo-2013 ukuya kuhlola ingqokelela yabo," watsho uNksk. King." Ndothuswa kukufumanisa ukuba uninzi lwazo lwaluyinkohliso. Iimpahla zokuqala zazincinci.
Kukho ezinye imiqondiso.
Umsebenzi kumboniso we-Met ka-2013 othi “Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture” utsale ingqalelo emva kokuba uNksz. King noMnu Gorman bephawule esidlangalaleni ngezityholo zobuxoki kunye nokungangqinelani kwalo mboniso.
Kodwa kukho imibuzo malunga nomsebenzi owawungenile kwimyuziyam kwiminyaka esibhozo ngaphambili.Imizekelo ibandakanya isuti yobukhoboka eyayivele ngokugqamileyo kumboniso we-“Anglomania” ka-2006, unxulunyaniswa nomthengisi wezinto zakudala eziseLondon uSimon Easton, kunye nenkampani eqashisayo yaseWestwood kunye neMcLaren yePunk Pistol Collection, ebonelele ngabadlali besitayile kunye nabenzi bhanyabhanya, uMnumzana. Bowey, waseka imyuziyam kwi-intanethi.Ngexesha elithile, imyuziyam iyekile ukudwelisa iisuti njengenxalenye yengqokelela yayo.
Ngo-2015, iziqwenga ezibini zeMcLaren-Westwood kwingqokelela yethu zamiselwa ukuba zezomgunyathi,” utshilo u-Andrew Bolton, umlondolozi oyintloko kwiMetropolitan Costume Institute.
Umnumzana Gorman uthumele uMnumzana Bolton ii-imeyile ezininzi apho wathi eminye imisebenzi kolu ngcelele ineengxaki, kodwa uMnu Gorman wathi uMnu Bolton akaphindanga wamphendula.Isithethi seCostume Institute sathi iziqwenga ziye zahlolwa ziingcali ngaphezulu kwesihlandlo esinye.Umnumzana Bolton walile ukunika naziphi na izimvo ezongezelelweyo kweli nqaku.
Umnumzana Easton, ongavumanga ukuphawula ngeli nqaku, uthe nge-imeyile ukuba uMnu Bowie wayemthethela, kodwa igama lakhe alicimeki kwintsomi yepunk yobuxoki. Kwiminyaka edlulileyo, indawo yakhe yePunkPistol.com, eyagcinwa ngo-2008, ithathwa ngabaninzi njengovimba othembekileyo woyilo lweMcLaren kunye neWestwood.
Noko ke, umnumzana Bowie wathi phezu kwayo nje imigudu yabo yokuqinisekisa le ngqokelela, “indlela engacwangciswanga eyakhulelwa ngayo ekuqaleni, zaveliswa ngayo zaza zaphinda zenziwa zayithintela loo nto.
Ngomhla we-9 kuSeptemba 2008, uMnumzana McLaren waxelelwa okokuqala ngobungakanani bobuqhophololo obumngqongile kunye noNksz.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
“Emva kweengxelo, amapolisa agqogqa amakhaya eCroydon nase-Eastbourne, apho afumana iilebhile ezibhalwe kwi-agitator,” yatsho i-imeyile.” Kodwa ngoobani aba matsha-ntliziyo? Wamkelekile uMnu Grant Howard kunye noMnu Lee Parker.
UGrant Champkins-Howard, ngoku ongu-DJ ophantsi kwegama elinguGrant Dale, kunye no-Lee Parker, umdidiyeli wemibhobho yamanzi, baxoxwa kwiNkundla yaseKingston Crown ngoJuni 2010, watsho uMgwebi uSusan Matthews. “Bangamaxoki akudala”. Ipropathi yabo yagqogqwa ngo-2008 yiMetropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad yaza yahlutha iimpahla ezityholwa ngokuba zezomgunyathi zikaMcLaren kunye neWestwood kunye nezinto ezinxulumene noko, kunye neeprints eziyi-120 zomgunyathi zeBanksy.
Aba babini kamva bafunyanwa benetyala lokukhohlisa umsebenzi weBanksy.UMnu. UMcLaren, umdali kuphela weempahla zokuqala zeSex kunye neSeditionaries ezimisele ukunikela ubungqina, wacelwa ukuba ahlolisise izinto ezithinjiweyo kwaye abonise ukuba iingubo zaziyi-fakes: ubungakanani obungachanekanga be-stencil lettering, amalaphu angahambelaniyo, ukusetyenziswa kwe-YKK kuneziphu ezinophawu loMbane, i-graphics engalunganga ye-juxtaposition kunye ne-dayed white tee tee.
“Wayenomsindo,” utshilo uNkosazana King.” Wayeziva eqinile ngokukhusela nokukhusela umsebenzi wakhe. Emva kokuqhawuka kwentsebenziswano phakathi kukaMnu McLaren kunye noNksk. Westwood ngo-1984, kwabakho imeko ephakamileyo ekudala ikho phakathi kwaba babini.
Umnumzana Howard noParker banikwa izigwebo ezixhonyiweyo kwityala leBanks, kodwa ityala lempahla yomgunyathi larhoxiswa xa uMnumzana McLaren wasweleka ngo-2010 ngenxa yokuba wayelingqina eliphambili lomtshutshisi ebaleni.
Nangona kunjalo, kufumaniseke ukuba usapho lukaNksz Westwood lusenokuba luye lwadala okanye lwaphembelela ishishini le-punk lomgunyathi.” Ndenze amahlelo ambalwa oyilo lwangaphambili ukunyusa imali yokusungula i-Agent Provocateur,” utshilo uJoe Corré, unyana kaMnumzana McLaren kunye noNksz.
UMnu. Corré wathi: “Siphinde sayila isikipa sethambo lenkukhu kunye nesikipa sika-'Venus'. Zaye zabhalwa njengemifanekiso eqingqiweyo, zaveliswa ngamaqhekeza ali-100, emva koko zathengiswa kwimarike yaseJapan.” Phambi kwezi zikopi zineenkcukacha kunye nexabiso eliphezulu, ukwenziwa kwakhona kwemisebenzi bekunqunyelwe kwizikrini zesilika ezicacileyo kwiiT-shirts ezithengiswayo zithengisa, isantya semveliso siyakhawuleza, kwaye ixabiso litshiphu kakhulu.
UMnu. Corré uthe uVivienne Westwood unike imvume yokuvelisa kwakhona.UMnu. Kwi-imeyile yomhla we-14 ku-Oktobha 2008 kwiqela eliquka intatheli uSteven Daly, uMnu McLaren wabhala: "Ngubani obavumele ukuba benze oku? Ndaxelela uJoe ukuba ayeke ngokukhawuleza kwaye ambhalele .Ndinomsindo."
UMnu. Corré, osandul’ ukuba ngumalathisi weVivienne Foundation, “usebenzisa amalungelo okushicilela umsebenzi wakhe ngendlela ebonisa uvelwano ukuze aqokelele imali yokuxhasa izinto ezahlukahlukeneyo.” Uthe uzakuphonononga indlela “yokuphelisa” ubuqhophololo. UNksz King uyaqhubeka nokulwela ilifa likaMnu McLaren kwaye ukholelwa ukuba uyacinywa ngokuphindaphindiweyo kwimbali yakhe.
Ishishini lepunk pistol likaMnu. Easton kunye noMnu. Bowey liyaqhubeka nokuthengisa uNks. Westwood kunye nomsebenzi kaMnu McLaren ngevenkile yase-Etsy, iSeditionariesInTheUK, uninzi lwayo luphethe ileta yesiqinisekiso esivela kwiNkampani yeVivienne Westwood, esayinwe, eyilwe kwaye yagcinwa nguMurray Blewett. Ezi zibandakanya iihempe ezinemigca zesilika kunye ne-karl kunye neehempe ezinemigca zesilika kunye ne-Parl Iibhatyi zerabha eziphefumlelwe nguLevi.
I-intanethi ayikho ngqongqo njengezindlu ezininzi zefandesi, kwaye abanakuphawula ngeli nqaku, kodwa bathi bamele kuphela imisebenzi kunye ne-bulletproof provenance, okt iifoto zomnini onxibe iimpahla kwi-1970s.
UMnumzana Gorman wathi: “Kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuba amaxhoba amaninzi enkohliso angamaxhoba avumayo.” Bafuna ngokwenene ukukholelwa ukuba bayinxalenye yebali lokuqala.” Yiloo nto ithethwa yifashoni, andithi?
Ixesha lokuposa: Apr-09-2022
