Iindaba kunye neCofa

Ngeli xesha lonyaka, umzi-mveliso wefashoni waseTurkey ujongene nemiceli mngeni emininzi, ukusukela kwingxaki ye-Covid-19 eqhubekayo kunye nokungquzulana kwezopolitiko kumazwe angabamelwane, ukuya kuphazamiseko oluqhubekayo lokubonelela, imozulu ebandayo engaqhelekanga yokumisa imveliso kunye nengxaki yezoqoqosho yelizwe, njengoko kubonwa kwintlekele yezemali yaseTurkey ngokwe-Financial Times yase-UK. IThe Times inike ingxelo yokuba ukunyuka kwamaxabiso kufikelele kwiminyaka engama-20 ephezulu kuma-54% ngoMatshi walo nyaka.
Ngaphandle kwale miqobo, isekiwe kwaye isavela italente yoyilo lwaseTurkey ibonise ukuzinza kunye nethemba kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseIstanbul kweli xesha lonyaka, ngokukhawuleza bamkela umxube wemisitho kunye nokubonisa izicwangciso zokwandisa kunye nobungqina bobukho babo behlabathi kweli xesha lonyaka.
Imisebenzi ebonakalayo kwiindawo zembali ezifana nebhotwe lase-Ottoman kunye necawa yaseCrimea eneminyaka eyi-160 ubudala ibuyela kwishedyuli, idibene neminikelo yedijithali edibeneyo, kunye nemiboniso esanda kuvulwa, iingxoxo zephaneli kunye ne-pop-ups kwi-Bosphorus Puerto Galata.
Abaququzeleli beminyhadala - i-Istanbul Garment Exporters Association okanye i-İHKİB, i-Turkish Fashion Designers Association (MTD) kunye ne-Istanbul Fashion Institute (IMA) - baye basebenzisana ne-Istanbul Soho House ukubonelela abantu basekuhlaleni ngamava okuvavanya ngokusondeleyo kunye nokutyelela ngamalungu oshishino losasazo oluphilayo.
E-Istanbul, kwakukho ingqiqo yamandla amatsha ekusebenzeni kunye nokuhlolwa kwemisebenzi yomzimba njengoko abathathi-nxaxheba bajoyina uluntu lwabo ngomntu kwakhona kwiimeko zemozulu.
“[Siyakukhumbula] ukuba kunye,” utshilo umyili weempahla zamadoda uNiyazi Erdoğan.” Amandla aphezulu kwaye wonke umntu ufuna ukubakho kulo mboniso.
Apha ngezantsi, i-BoF idibana nabayili abasakhulayo abali-10 nabasekiweyo kwiminyhadala yabo yeVeki yeFashoni kunye neminyhadala ukufumanisa ukuba amaphulo abo kunye nezicwangciso zabo zophawu ziye zavela njani e-Istanbul ngeli xesha lonyaka.
U-Şansım Adalı wafunda e-Brussels ngaphambi kokuseka u-Sudi Etuz.Umyili, oyintshatsheli ye-digital-first approach, ugxile kakhulu kwishishini lakhe ledijithali namhlanje kunye nokunciphisa ishishini lakhe le-textile.Usebenzisa iimodeli zokwenyani zokwenyani, amagcisa edijithali kunye neenjineli zobukrelekrele bokwenziwa, kunye ingqokelela ye-capsule ye-NFT kunye nempahla yomzimba elinganiselweyo.
U-Şansım Adalı ubamba umboniso wakhe kwiCawe yeSikhumbuzo saseCrimea kufuphi neGalata e-Istanbul, apho uyilo lwakhe lwedijithali luyimodeli yedijithali kwaye iboniswe kwisikrini esineenyawo ezi-8 ubude. Emva kokuphulukana noyise ngenxa ye-Covid-19, wachaza ukuba "ayikaziva ilungile" ukuba ibe nabantu abaninzi kwi-digital show, ubonisa imodeli yedijithali kunye.
"Ngamava ahluke kakhulu, ukuba nomboniso wedijithali kwindawo yokwakha endala," uxelele i-BoF. "Ndiyawuthanda umahluko. Wonke umntu uyazi ngale cawa, kodwa akukho mntu ungena kuyo. Isizukulwana esitsha asazi nokuba ezi ndawo zikhona. Ke, ndifuna nje ukubona isizukulwana esitsha ngaphakathi kwaye sikhumbule ukuba sinobu buchule bokwakha buhle."
Umboniso wedijithali uhamba kunye nokusebenza kwe-opera ephilayo, kwaye umculi unxiba enye yeempahla ezimbalwa zomzimba ezenziwa ngu-Adal namhlanje - kodwa ubukhulu becala, uSudi Etuz unenjongo yokugcina ingqalelo yedijithali.
"Izicwangciso zam zexesha elizayo kukugcina icala le-textile ye-brand yam encinci kuba andicingi ukuba ihlabathi lifuna enye i-brand yemveliso yobuninzi. Ndigxile kwiiprojekthi zedijithali. Ndineqela leenjineli zekhompyutha, amagcisa edijithali kunye neqela lamagcisa eempahla. Iqela lam loyilo nguGen Z, kwaye ndizama ukubaqonda, babukele, baphulaphule."
UGökay Gündoğdu wafudukela eNew York ukuya kufunda ulawulo lwebhrendi ngaphambi kokujoyina iDomus Academy eMilan ngo-2007. UGündoğdu wasebenza e-Italiya ngaphambi kokuba aphehlelele ileyibhile yakhe yesinxibo sabasetyhini i-TAGG ngo-2014 - i-Attitude Gökay Gündoğdu.
I-TAGG ibonisa ingqokelela yeli xesha lonyaka ngendlela yomboniso wemyuziyam owandisiweyo: "Sisebenzisa iikhowudi ze-QR kunye nenyani eyongeziweyo ukubukela iimuvi ezibukhoma ziphuma eludongeni - iinguqulelo zevidiyo zemifanekiso emileyo, njengomboniso wefashoni," uGündoğdu uxelele i-BoF.
"Andingomntu wedijithali konke konke," watsho, kodwa ngexesha lo bhubhani, "yonke into esiyenzayo yedijithali. Senza ukuba iwebhusayithi yethu ifikeleleke kwaye ibe lula ukuyiqonda. Sikwi [iqonga lolawulo olupheleleyo] uJoor ubonise ingqokelela ngo-2019 kwaye wafumana abathengi abatsha nabatsha e-US, Israel, Qatar, Kuwait."
Ngaphandle kwempumelelo yakhe, ukufika kwe-TAGG kwiiakhawunti zamazwe ngamazwe kweli xesha kuye kwaba ngumngeni.
Ubunzima bezoqoqosho bukwachaphazele ukuqokelela kwakhe kweli xesha lonyaka: "I-lira yaseTurkey ilahlekelwa ngamandla, ngoko yonke into ibiza kakhulu. Ukungenisa amalaphu kumazwe angaphandle kuxakekile. Urhulumente uthi akufanele utyhale ukhuphiswano phakathi kwabavelisi belaphu bangaphandle kunye nemarike yangaphakathi. Kufuneka uhlawule irhafu eyongezelelweyo ekuthengeni ngaphandle." Ngenxa yoko, abaqulunqi baxuba amalaphu asekhaya kunye nalawo asuka eItali naseFransi.
UMlawuli woBugcisa uYakup Bicer uphehlelele ibhrendi yakhe iY Plus, ibrendi yeunisex, ngo-2019 emva kweminyaka engama-30 kushishino loyilo lwaseTurkey.Y Plus yaqalwa kwiVeki yeFashoni yaseLondon ngoFebruwari ka-2020.
Ingqokelela yedijithali ye-Yakup Bicer's Autumn/Winter 22-23 collection iphefumlelwe "ngamaqhawe ekhibhodi angaziwa kunye nabakhuseli babo be-crypto-anarchist ideology" kwaye idlulisela umyalezo wokukhusela inkululeko yezopolitiko kumaqonga eendaba ezentlalo.
"Ndifuna ukuqhubeka [ndibonisa] okwethutyana," uxelele i-BoF. "Njengoko besenzile ngaphambili, ukuhlanganisa abathengi ngexesha leveki yefashoni kudla ixesha elininzi kwaye kungumthwalo wemali. Ngoku sinokufikelela kuzo zonke iindawo zehlabathi ngexesha elinye ngokucofa iqhosha elinenkcazo yedijithali ."
Ngaphaya kwetekhnoloji, iBicer ixhasa imveliso yasekhaya ukoyisa iziphazamiso zobonelelo - kwaye ngokwenza oko, inethemba lokuzisa iindlela ezizinzileyo.
U-Ece kunye no-Ayse Ege basungula i-brand yabo ye-Dice Kayek ngo-1992. Ngaphambili yaveliswa e-Paris, i-brand yajoyina i-Fédération Française de la Couture ngo-1994 kwaye yawongwa ngeBhaso le-Jameel III, ibhaso lamazwe ngamazwe lobugcisa beli xesha kunye noyilo oluphefumlelwe zizithethe zamaSilamsi, ngo-2013 i-brand ye-studio ye-Istanbul iye yafuduswa kutsha nje.
Oodade bakaDice Kayek u-Ece no-Ayse Ege babonise ingqokelela yabo kwividiyo yefashoni ngeli xesha - ifomathi yedijithali abaqhelene nayo ngoku, besenza iifilimu zefashoni ukususela ngo-2013. Yivule kwaye ubuyele kuyo.
Namhlanje, i-Dice Kayek ithengisa kumazwe aseYurophu, e-US, kuMbindi Mpuma nase-China.Ngevenkile yabo eParis, bahlula amava abathengi kwivenkile ngokusebenzisa amasiko aseTurkey njengeqhinga lokuthengisa elinamava.
Oodade ngaphambili babeqhuba ishishini labo besuka eParis ngaphambi kokuba bafudukele e-Istanbul, apho istudiyo sabo sincanyathiselwe kwigumbi lemiboniso likaBeaumonti. UDice Kayek walifaka ngaphakathi ngokupheleleyo ishishini labo kwaye wabona imveliso iba nengeniso engakumbi, “into esasingenakuyenza xa sasisenza komnye umzi-mveliso.” Ekuziseni imveliso endlwini, oodade nabo babenethemba lokuba umsebenzi wobugcisa waseTurkey uyaxhaswa kwaye ugcinwe kwingqokelela yawo.
U-Niyazi Erdoğan ngumyili weVeki yeFashoni yase-Istanbul ka-2009 kunye no-Sekela-Mongameli we-Turkish Fashion Designers Association, kunye nomhlohli kwi-Istanbul Fashion Academy. Ukongeza kwi-menswear line, waseka i-brand yezixhobo ze-NIYO ngo-2014 kwaye waphumelela iMbasa yeMyuziyam yaseYurophu ngonyaka omnye.
U-Niyazi Erdoğan ubonise iqoqo lakhe leengubo zamadoda ngedijithali kweli xesha: "Sonke senza idijithali ngoku - sibonisa kwi-Metaverse okanye i-NFTs. Sithengisa iqoqo ngedijithali nangokwenyama, sihamba ngeendlela zombini. Sifuna ukulungiselela ikamva labo bobabini, "watshela i-BoF.
Nangona kunjalo, kwisizini ezayo, wathi, "Ndicinga ukuba kufuneka sibe nomboniso womzimba. Ifashoni imalunga noluntu kunye neemvakalelo, kwaye abantu bayathanda ukuba kunye. Kubantu abanobuchule, siyayidinga le nto."
Ngexesha lo bhubhani, uphawu lwenze ivenkile ekwi-intanethi kwaye lwatshintsha ingqokelela zabo ukuba zibe “zithengiswe ngcono” kwi-Intanethi, kuthathelwa ingqalelo utshintsho kwimfuno yabathengi ngexesha lo bhubhani. Uye waphawula utshintsho kwesi siseko sabathengi: “Ndibona iimpahla zam zamadoda zithengiselwa abafazi ngokunjalo, ngoko akukho mida.
Njengomfundisi we-IMA, u-Erdogan uhlala efunda kwisizukulwana esilandelayo. "Kwisizukulwana esifana ne-Alpha, ukuba usefashonini, kufuneka ubaqonde. Umbono wam kukuqonda iimfuno zabo, ukuba nobuchule malunga nokuzinza, idijithali, umbala, ukusika kunye nokumila - kufuneka sisebenze kunye Basebenzisana. "
Umfundi ophumelele i-Istituto Marangoni, u-Nihan Peker wasebenzela iinkampani ezifana noFrankie Morello, uColmar kunye noFurla ngaphambi kokuba aqalise ileyibhile yakhe ye-namesake kwi-2012, ukuyila ukuqokelela okukulungele ukunxiba, ukutshata kunye ne-couture.Ubonise eLondon, eParis naseMilan Fashion Weeks.
Ukubhiyozela iminyaka eli-10 yohlobo kweli xesha lonyaka, u-Nihan Peker ubambe umboniso wefashoni e-Çırağan Palace, ibhotwe langaphambili lase-Ottoman laguqulwa lisuka kwihotele ejonge eBosphorus.
"Kwandithatha ixesha lokuzibonakalisa kwilizwe lam," wongezelela uPeker, owayehleli phambili ngeli xesha kunye nabantu abadumileyo baseTurkey abanxibe iiplani ezivela kwiiqoqo zakhe zangaphambili.Ngamazwe ngamazwe, "izinto zihamba kwindawo efanelekileyo," watsho, kunye nefuthe elikhulayo kuMbindi Mpuma.
"Bonke abaqulunqi baseTurkey kufuneka bacinge ngemiceli mngeni yommandla wethu amaxesha ngamaxesha. Ngeliphandle, njengelizwe, kufuneka sijongane nemiba emikhulu yezentlalo nezopolitiko, ke sonke siphulukana nomfutho ngokunjalo. Ujoliso lwam ngoku kukuqokelelwa kwam okukulungeleyo ukunxiba kunye neengqokelela ze-haute couture zenza uhlobo olutsha lokunxiba, ubuhle obunokwenziwa."
Emva kokuphumelela kwi-Istanbul Fashion Institute ngo-2014, u-Akyuz wafundela isidanga se-masters kwi-Menswear Design kwi-Marangoni Academy e-Milan.Wasebenzela u-Ermenegildo Zegna kunye ne-Costume National ngaphambi kokuba abuyele eTurkey ngo-2016 kwaye wasungula ileyibhile yakhe yempahla yamadoda ngo-2018.
Kumboniso wesithandathu wexesha lonyaka, u-Selen Akyuz wenza ifilim eyaboniswa eSoho House e-Istanbul nakwi-intanethi: “Yimuvi, ngoko ayingomboniso wefashoni ngenene, kodwa ndicinga ukuba isasebenza. Kwakhona ngokweemvakalelo.”
Njengeshishini elincinci lesiko, i-Akyuz iyakha kancinci isiseko sabathengi bamazwe aphesheya, esinabathengi ngoku abakwi-US, Romania nase-Albania. ukuziqhelanisa.
Le ndlela yokwehliswa kwayo idlulela kumaqabane akhe emveliso.”Endaweni yokusebenza nabavelisi abakhulu, bendikhangela abathungi abancinci basekhaya ukuxhasa uphawu lwam, kodwa bekunzima ukufumana abagqatswa abafanelekileyo.
UGökhan Yavaş uphumelele kwi-DEU Fine Arts Textile kunye noYilo lweFashoni ngo-2012 kwaye wafunda e-IMA ngaphambi kokuba aphehlelele eyakhe ingubo yesitalato yamadoda ngo-2017.
Ngeli xesha lonyaka, uGökhan Yavaş ubonisa ividiyo emfutshane kunye nomboniso wefashoni - okokuqala kwiminyaka emithathu. "Siyiphose ngokwenene - lixesha lokuthetha nabantu kwakhona. Sifuna ukuqhubeka senza imiboniso yefashoni yomzimba kuba kwi-Instagram, kuya kuba nzima ukunxibelelana. Kuninzi malunga nokudibana kunye nokuva kubantu ubuso ngobuso," umyili uthi.
I-brand ihlaziya ingcamango yayo yemveliso. "Siyekile ukusebenzisa isikhumba sokwenyani kunye nesikhumba sokwenyani," ucacisile, echaza ukuba iimbonakalo ezintathu zokuqala zengqokelela zahlanganiswa kunye nezikhafu ezenziwe kwingqokelela yangaphambili.
Ugxininiso lozinzo lubonakalise umngeni kwiibhrendi, kunye nomqobo wokuqala kukufumana amalaphu e-millet amaninzi kubaboneleli. Umceli mngeni wesibini abajongene nawo kuvula ivenkile eTurkey ukuthengisa iimpahla zamadoda, ngelixa abathengi basekhaya begxininisa kwi-Turkish womenswear designs division.Still, ngelixa i-brand ithengisa ngewebhusayithi yabo kunye neevenkile zamazwe ngamazwe eCanada naseLondon, ingqalelo yabo elandelayo yi-Asia - ngokukodwa iKorea neChina.
I-brand yobugcisa obunxitywayo i-Bashaques yasekwa kwi-2014 ngu-Başak Cankeş.I-brand ithengisa iimpahla zokuqubha kunye ne-kimonos ezinemixholo yobugcisa bayo.
Ngokwesiqhelo, ndenza intsebenziswano yobugcisa kunye neziqwenga zobugcisa ezinxitywayo,” umlawuli woyilo u-Başak Cankeş uxelele i-BoF kamsinya nje emva kokubonisa ingqokelela yakhe yamva nje kumboniso wemizuzu engama-45 eSoho House e-Istanbul.
Umboniso ubalisa ibali lokuhamba kwakhe ePeru naseColombia ukuze asebenze kunye namagcisa abo, amkele iipateni ze-Anatolian kunye neempawu, kwaye "ababuze ukuba baziva njani nge-Anatolian [iiprinta]". Ukudweba kwilifa lenkcubeko ekwabelwana ngayo ye-shamanism, uchungechunge luhlola izenzo eziqhelekileyo zobugcisa phakathi kwe-Asian Turkish Anatolia kunye namazwe aseMzantsi Melika.
“Malunga nama-60 ekhulwini ale ngqokelela sisiqwenga nje esinye, esilukwe ngesandla ngabafazi basePeru naseAnatolia,” utsho.
UCankeş uthengisela abaqokeleli bemizobo eTurkey kwaye ufuna ukuba abanye abathengi benze ingqokelela yemyuziyam emsebenzini wakhe, echaza ukuba "akanamdla wokuba yibrendi yehlabathi kuba kunzima ukuba luphawu lwehlabathi noluzinzileyo. Andifuni nokwenza nayiphi na ingqokelela yeziqwenga ezili-10 ngaphandle kweesuti zokuqubha okanye iikimonos. Yingcinga epheleleyo, ingqokelela yobugcisa obuguquguqukayo esinokuthi sizibonele njengegcisa lefashoni kwiNFT. umyili.”
I-Karma Collective imele italente esakhulayo ye-Istanbul Moda Academy, eyasekwa kwi-2007, inikezela ngeedigri kuYilo lweFashoni, iTekhnoloji kunye noPhuhliso lweMveliso, uLawulo lweFashoni, kunye noNxibelelwano lweFashoni kunye neMedia.
"Ingxaki enkulu endinayo yimeko yemozulu, kuba ikhephu kwiiveki ezimbini ezidlulileyo, ngoko ke sineengxaki ezininzi kwikhonkco lokubonelela kunye neendwangu zokukhangela," u-Hakalmaz uxelele i-BoF.Wadala ingqokelela kwiiveki nje ezimbini kwileyibhile yakhe ethi Alter Ego, evezwe njengenxalenye yeKarma ehlangeneyo, kwaye nayo yenzelwe i-fashion house Nocturne.
UHakalmaz akasasebenzisi nezisombululo zobuchwepheshe ukuxhasa inkqubo yakhe yokuvelisa, esithi: “Andikuthandi ukusebenzisa itekhnoloji kwaye ndihlale kude kuyo kangangoko ndinako kuba ndikhetha ukwenza umsebenzi wezandla ukuze ndinxibelelane nexesha elidlulileyo.”